Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

I have an issue where my passenger side slider is touching my fender when my driver side is not. I wheel fairly hard and use my sliders so what are the chances that this is a cab mount bushing issue or a bent slider issue? Below are pictures front and rear of driver and passenger side sliders.

 

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Also, check to verify your bed is still mounted squarely.

 

This wouldnt affect the front tho.. so what makes you think this would be an issue? Seems drastic

 

I was just thinking if the cab/bed gap was not even side to side, the bed could have moved slightly.

It's easier to adjust a crooked bed than bent sliders or frame.

I am not saying the bed has moved, just check it.

 

Ahhh it is on both rear and front on pass side. So I dont think it is a shifted bed. However, that is a valid point and I will inspect the bed.

I also doubt the frame is bent. It is either the bushings are giving or the slider is bent. I will put my money on bent slider because well wheeling and these arent the best sleeeeeders. I wonder if there is a way to measure the angle of the sliders

 

The bushings will only help up front. Judging by how close the rear fenders are to the sliders, I'm guessing you bent your sliders a bit. The compass app on most smart phones has an inclinometer to measure angles too, or there are plenty of free apps to download.

 

So i did measure and confirmed that I bent my sleeeder. so I am opting to not go through the trouble to replacing body mount bushings... its cold in CO rn ha

Thanks for your input! The level in the measure iphone app was a good idea

 

+watch

 

I gotta ask, the old stock bushings, are they supposed to have that hour glass shape above the football flange or should they look like the new es ones?

 

The top stock bushings are different. All I can think of is they're like oreos or sammich cookies

 

Where exactly are you guys placing the 4x4 to Jack up the body? Last thing I want is to bend a pinch weld or dent a panel. I was thinking I'd cut a relief into the block so it would have more surface area; contacting both the pinch weld and panel at the same time. Thoughts?

 

Yes, the pinch weld actually works as long as you do it where there are three layers, right under the door. I used a 4x4 & felt best with it resting against the frame & since jacking it up in weird places makes me nervous, it takes me a few before I am comfy with it cuz of course your tilting the truck as opposed to going straight up & the top of the block or whatever you use, is only making contact with the pinch weld.

 

I suppose it matters if that spot on the pinch weld is in decent shape as well.
I didn’t catch on to using the pinch weld til the second time I had to do them. First time I used a 4x4x2’ or so & put it up between the pinch weld & the frame. I recall there was a spot that seemed stronger. In some ways I liked it better cuz it felt more secure & I didn’t have to lift it as high to get to the position 3rd bushings, however everything went fine getting at them using the pinch weld. I am sure there’s a reason the pinch weld is the better way to go & maybe I just lucked out not damaging anything. Got’a say though, since I was fixing a botched job, I was repeatedly jacking up each side & I had no problems with putting the block next to the pinch weld. Someone will probably pipe in & let me know why that was the improper way to do it, which would be welcome & good to know.

 

Haha ok thanks for the quick responses. I'm overthinking it anyway. Wish me luck!

 

I don’t believe there is such a thing as overthinking. The world needs all kinds. It’d be pretty dull if we all processed stuff the same way....
Good luck!
& as you can see, I am an explainer (short story long), so anything else you get concerned about, i’ll do my best & then some....
Oh, & my truck seemed happier with the doors open. Seemed there were less creaks. Just sayin’....

 

All done! Definitely alot more solid. Fronts were still in good shape.. The rears had been torn all the way around. Glad I finally got around to doing this.
The most difficult part was getting at the rear bolts. Previous owner installed a sound system, had to pull the whole thing out to access the rear mounts.. passenger rear through-bolt was seized to the bushing and was super stubborn. Used my floor jack to put pressure on it from underneath and worked it back and forth with my breaker bar from inside the cab till it popped out.. I considered using a bfh to smack it out but didn't want to wreck it since I didn't buy any spare parts.
Thanks everyone for your tips and OP for taking the time to make this guide.
Would probably still be cussing and breaking shit in my garage without this thread.
Cheers!

 

Great video on this for us visual learners.
https://youtu.be/ch8f-uEy2Ok

 

Video added to the Original Post. Thanks!!

 

Finally getting around so doing this on my 2011. Safe to say I’ll be running to the stealership for the nuts and bolts? The kit only came with bushings, washers, and plates.

 

It’s a 2011, in New Hampshire... odds are very good I’m going to snap half of them. We don’t turn wrenches up here, we grind rust.