Ken the electrical guy Q n A

Have you considered doing a switch back led conversion? I did it to mine and really like it

 

There's a thread on this forum that goes over a simple mod you can do to the wire harness that turns the side markers into turn signals

 

Update: I fixed my low horn issue. I had a bad ground connection on the replacement low town horn. Thanks to this thread though it motivated me to figure out what was wrong and get it fixed. My horn finally sounds normal again.

 

@Kens04Taco Hey Ken thanks for the relay help.

This is the board now with things coming together. If I could do this all again I would probably use a busman relay box so it would look less crazy with wires all over.



I wired in the ditch lights and hood scoop light. Since I’m still waiting on my switch panel I have only tested them by grounding the switch circuit. And we have light.

Quick question. I have always understood that changing wiring gauge mid run can lead to over heating. For instance I butchered a ditch light harness because it was not long enough, but to make use of the Deutsch DT DTP connectors. The first ten feet is 16g and then the last three / four feet is 18g. Is the draw on LED lights relay enough to cause problems here?

 

Technically you may consider fuse down at that connection. Be sure your line fuse is gauged for the 18 as if it was full length. As far as draw, the lights will be rated so you need to calculate the line as if it was all 18g for that load.

 

I wanted to know if I could wire my ARB dual compressor under one larger gauge wire and one fuse. If it uses 2 40A can I use one 80A and use a 6 gauge power and ground? Also can I ground to the frame near the compressor or do I have to run it to neg cable on battery? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

 

As long as you have strong connections it will be fine. I wouldn’t make a habit out of it but if ur just running leds it’ll be fine.

 

You can feed a 80 Amp circuit with one wire. With regards to size you’ll want to use a chart to determine wire size based off load and length.

However... can you give me the specifications of your compressor? Because if you have two independent circuits or dual motors do not do this. You could fry your motor and never pop a fuse.

 

Bitchen dude...yeah I dunno why but I’ve also experienced issues with horns and the ground was the culprit. Coincidence of course but still glad you got ur horn yelling again

 

I wired them like the schematic I drew and posted. Now I am getting the back light on the switch but only when the headlights are off. Here is a link to a video of what’s happening.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BbtU0IUPDYgz60B8QLYvWDRb-lPXa64f/view?usp=drivesdk

Headlights on:
Top LED in switch is off
Bottom LED in switch is off
Hella lights turn on and off fine

Headlights off:
Top LED in switch is off
Bottom LED in switch is on
Hella lights turn on and off fine (top LED in switch turns on when Hella lights are on and off when Hella lights are off)

I would love it if the bottom LED would light when the dash lights turn on. Then the top LED would light up when the Hella lights turn on. Which is what I thought I was wiring it like??

 

Okay so I have two Cali Raised pods rated at 27w each. They came on a harness that appears to be 18g with a 30 amp fuse.
But if I understand right 27wx2=54
54/12=4.5 Amps
Is a 5amp fuse appropriate?

I extend the harness 10 feet. Is the proper way to do this , to open up the pods so there is a larger gauge wire running all the way?

 

yes. The dual ARB air compressor is literally 2 singles stuck together with two positive 40amp fused wires. That answers my questions perfectly.

 

I dont want the side markers as turn signals.. I want the big orange lights that are close to the grill to flash..

 

I like incandescent bulbs.. I'd prefer to not wire in a relay per side and am hunting for an alternative cleaner method to make some bulbs flash.

 

All you need to do is hook up the output from the flasher to which ever bulb you want to flash. What ever 12v wire was originally connected to the turn signal will probably just need to be extended or shortened and connected to which ever circuit you want flash. That’s the simplest way. I’m not sure how you wired things when you changed it up.

 

Any thoughts or suggestion on this @Kens04Taco ?

 

The center orange amber light was a running/turn signal light (dual filament) I ran side market power wire in place of the pulse pwr wire to make both filaments constant. Now i would like to interrupt the ground wire to make it flash as the turn signal yet run constant still.

 

With regards to your switch leds...
Here’s what you gotta do. Connect the lower led 12v contact with a running light circuit. This could be your shifter light, cigarette lighter illumination, ash tray, anything that lights up when you turn the headlight switch to run or on.

you want to power the upper led from the same pin as your output to the Hellas. This way when you turn on the switch power is sent to the Hellas and the upper led. You can do this with a simple jumper wire that connects to both the output of switch and the upper led 12v

If you want the upper led to turn on when in the on position and have the lower led off when in the on position.
You’ll need to make a jump wire from the top position output to the top led
and you’ll need to make another wire that goes from the lower output to the lower led 12v position. You can power both inputs off the same circuit. The only difference is the upper output will go the Hellas and the lower will just terminate at the pin.


if your Hellas turn off and on fine in both the on and off position of the headlight switch this would
Mean that you must have wired the power (30) for the relay on a 12v source independent of the headlights. I’m assuming some switched accessory circuit?

 

Do you have a 2nd gen or 3rd I just want to get some clarification.

if you had a headlight with 3 bulbs
(Interior closest to grill)(headlight)(outer towards fender). Then you just need to connect the output from the flasher to which ever bulb to want to flash.
If you had the (interior closest to the grill as a dual filament turn/run. Then you removed the flash circuit and replaced with a non pulse (flash) source then you should be able to do the same in reverse to the outter bulb to create a flashing outter bulb. Cut the wire feeding the outer light and connect with the flashing circuit you removed from the inter bulb.

 

I have a 2nd gen, I want these to flash as turn signals (circled in RED).. Both filaments are constant power and i do not want to change that.