Austin's Supercharged Mid Travel Build

no chance the LBJ adapter will rip out of the LCA
adds 2 degrees of castor from the LCA which means no rubbing and better alginment
way better bushing design and smoother travel
hydro bump strike plate



dumb things:

Can't jack off them for shit anymore
no secondary shock mount...like wtf
cost a ton

 

The main reason I got them is because I have to run wheel spacers with my total chaos outboard shock kit. Unfortunately the wheel spacers up front made my 33's severely rub my firewall, even with a lot of cutting and "massaging" of the firewall. These arms push the front wheel forward an inch which will completely eliminate my rubbing issue. Also, when I go up to 35's I won't have to tub the wheel well as much as if I had the stock arms.

Secondly, I do a lot of go fast driving and I've seen a few people's LCA's crack around the lower shock mount that have a similar driving style. These arms are much beefier than the stock arms, so I doubt I'll have to worry about cracking anymore.

Lastly, the arms have a hydro bump pad. I probably won't get hydro's until I go LT but it's nice having the option.

 

@loudboy and this ^

 

Good info, thank you both!

 

Got these burnt on. I should have the Solo arms on later today.

 

Awesome welds. What machine are you running?

 

Thanks. I got some undercut on the lower weld but overall I'm pretty happy how they came out.

I used a Lincoln SP-250. It's a good welder but it welds like shit using steel mix for some reason, which is what I used for the cam tab gussets. At my work we mix our own steel mix and it welds amazing on that.

I also have a Lincoln Power Mig 255 and it's one the easiest welders I've ever used, it's awesome. Unfortunately the board died in it so it's in the shop being repaired right now.

 

The Solo arms are in and my tires no longer rub, woop woop. Only ran into one issue with the arms hitting my skid plate, no biggie. Can't wait to get an alignment and go test them out. I'm really curious how the added caster will feel.

 

Lbjs torque down correctly?

 

Yeah, no issues there.

I’m really curious if your problem is the arms or the ball joint.

 

You and me both. Looking forward to taking it apart.

 

Over winter break from college I was able to get to a few projects done on the truck that I hadn't had time to do.

The main priority was re-building my rock sliders. The original way that fabricator bolted them up to my frame never allowed the sliders to be fully tightened down so they could rattle and hit the pinch weld on my cab. Also, the tubes that connect the outside tube to the main tube weren't evenly spaced which has always driven me crazy. During the rebuild I only ended up re using the outside tube with the bends. This allowed me to evenly space the cross tubes, and also build them with the weld on / bolt on hybrid mounts that I've always wanted.













Another small project I got around to is this coolant overflow bottle belt shield. The way my dual battery system relocates the coolant bottle has always caused issues with the serpentine belt bouncing and chipping away at it. I've had to replace the bottle multiple times and finally I just decided to build this little shield for the belt to slide across when it bounces.




Replaced the lower heims in my coilovers.



Also got out and played a little bit too. My transmission is acting up and on its way out so I haven't done a whole lot with the truck lately. However, I did just pick up a used trans that I'm going to install a transgo kit in and replace my old trans with.

 

Auto or Manual

 

Auto

 

Just realized you have ADS shocks mounted in the configuration I requested but with the resi's upside down from what I asked for. Your way seems like a simpler approach. Wish I asked for that instead lol.

 

Yeah I noticed you’ve been running a similar setup. I didn’t request any special hose length / routing, this was just the only way I was able to make them work. I tried mounting them to the frame rail but the tire rubbed badly and limited my steering. Eventually I want to switch to the MCM mount but I’m going to wait until I send them in for a rebuild to have the right hose configuration installed for that mount.

 

I prototyped that setup and I come dangerously close to the resi with the uca tower gussets.

 

Could the bracket holes be slotted a bit to allow it to shift away from the tower gussets?

 

Possibly I mean, I don’t know what the actual brackets are like, I just imagined a flat sheet of metal and the gussets would push that out towards the tire no matter what. I decided to not fuck with all that and go with this safe route.