Driveshaft pulley bolt nightmare

I hit the starter in an attempt to break the pulley bolt and it spun in the socket instead.
(see photo)
I'm thinking maybe I should grind down the flats with a dremel and hammer a 19mm socket on. My wife thinks I should just take it to a shop.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to handle a rounded driveshaft pulley bolt?

 

Are you using a black impact grade 6-point socket?

 

Does not look that bad. I would use an impact wrench if you have one and can get it in there. Much more effective than just a regular socket wrench.

 

No. I don't believe it said "impact grade" and it's not black. It is 6-point.
The socket still looks new, how would a black, impact-grade socket make a difference?

 

Before I rounded it, I let my electric impact wrench hammer at it forever with no effect.

 

Heavy wall socket "black impact " vs regular chrome thin wall.
I've seen thin wall and cheap end wrenches flex around the bolt head.

So you have access to a welder?

 

Ah, that makes sense. Any recommendations or should I just look for something black and expensive?
I do not have a welder.

 

Without a welder I’m not sure it’s gonna work. Those bolts are a pain. I’ve done the starter trick a few times.

 

Heavier. Was this the right size? Maybe it has a split already on it. maybe it fell off as you hit starter. You can't hesitate. *not accusing, it happens*

Honda has a special "2x as heavy" impact socket that is a Godsend on damper bolts.*It really works, look on Amazon. Local auto stores prob. stock them now*

You are past the cheating method and are now back to hand tools whether impact/ratchet or chisel.

edit: Take out the radiator, you can see it better and there's room for an impact. Propane torch will heat it up to break the factory threadlock.

 

Well what is the project goal? Are you pulling the front cover and can replace the seal?

I'd get a burn z matic torch and heat that bad boy up, but it will probably ruin the oil seal behind.
I'd get whatever impact sockets a local place has and get the next tightest one I think I could get started and beat it in there.
You'll also probably need a breaker bar and cheater pipe.
But that's saying you really have room to swing the shit out of a hammer.
But if you're lacking in tools and experience maybe you would be better off with a shop?

 

I would hammer an impact socket on it, then get a chain wrench around the balancer. Ive done 20 or 30 using this method bolt comes of very easy. I have a big electric impact but i prefer this method plus you don't have to take the rad off

 

Also if your good with a grinder/dremel/die grinder. You have enough meat there to essentially rebuild that head.

Notice how much metal is in the 'washer' part that can be 'machined down' then the bolt head 'offset' back to be deeper.

You can't be hamfisted about it though.

 

That was my thought.

What is the right size? I went out of my way to find a 20mm socket because that's what I thought it called for...
Definitely didn't fall off, it wanted to keep the socket.

Oil pours from behind that pulley when it's running. I have new OEM shaft seal and oil pump gasket to put in.

 

Its strange but I've managed to remove some very hard to remove or rusted bolts with an impact grade where the chrome plated equivalent would slide under pressure and round off the bolt. The black surface on an impact grade clings to bolt and doesn't let the socket slide like a chrome plated. I've had non-impact grade sockets shatter under high-torque applications like removing a crankshaft bolt. I started out with chrome plated non-impact sockets years ago like most people. After a few cases of getting better results with impact grade for the heavy type of work that I do, I made the switch.

 

It's 19, that's what happened. Parts stores have these now.



It's serious bidness getting Honda bolts off.

 

My caliper said 19.7mm across what appeared to be undamaged flats. That was before I rounded it. That bolt must of been through some shit to get that deformed.

 

Made to fit tightly in a 19 then so it doesn't round off. snicker.

 

Of course I have a different engine size, but 3.4L uses a 19mm. No issue using a 19mm black impact to remove the crankshaft damper pulley bolt. Like "piece of cake" easy.

 

Don't rule out destroying the bolt to get it off. You can (should?) buy a replacement.
By destroying, I mean you may consider using a chisel and punch on the outer circumference to get it rotating.
I have had luck using this method.

 

I'm definitely going to replace the bolt now. When I encounter a bolt with a bad head I drill it out. What's this chisel and punch method?