Ken the electrical guy Q n A

Question 1: did you state there are two filaments in each? If so do you have any inclination as to why, are there three wires in the harness, or do both filaments always light? Or did I misunderstand on the two filament bulbs.
Yes, My truck came with DRL, One wire was controlled by DRL and the other was a turn signal power and the DRL would cancel out when turn signal was applied or headlights turned on (three wires, -/+/DRL+)

Question 2: why are relays not allowed? There are electronic solutions but they are harder to build and waterproof.
I'm not aware of all electrical solutions. I for some reason believe some relays have multiple poles/positions and was fishing for an expert to confirm.

Question 3: why do you want to do this in the first place? To improve visibility? Where are the regular blinker lights located?
I like to change things.

 

Ok, so what I think you are trying to accomplish is to make both filaments on any one side light (making that blinker brighter) when you "blink".

Regarding relays, there are readily available variations on a typical auto relay. But I'm not sure the variation you are looking for exists in "one". The hardest part is you need to capture the "blink on" event for each side before the flasher, so you need to route from the steering column wand side to your DRL cutout relays. You also need another relay, to then switch the flashed value to the second filament. It might simply be feasible to source a one side brighter bulb (if the current is not too high) or to install a second [LED] bulb in the same housing...generally you drill a hole, run a small bead of silicone and push in a post.

If, I'm still not understanding what you are tying to do, perhaps draw me a neat picture of what you are tying to do would be helpful.



For reference on two generally available relays:

In the top drawing I show the "typical"...you energize the coil (terminals 86/85) with low current 12V...that connects your contact 30 to 87 "normally open"...allowing for higher current switching. When the coil is not energized, contact 30 rests on 87A completing that circuit ("normally closed"). This is by far the most common "I want to power something like a power port or lights from a low power switch.

The second drawing is a very common adaptation to that. Inside the relay housing, terminal 87 and 87A are shorted (connected together) and the Contact for 87A ("normally closed") is removed. This gives you two terminals to conveniently connect two outputs to the same relay...but the switching is not independent, this is the same as just running two wires off terminal 87, and there is no "normally closed" option.

 

Ken the electrical guy Q n A

i know how to accomplish what i want, i was just searching for an alternative.

 

Sorry I interfered.

 

@Kens04Taco Having wired up the relays with the switch on the negative side 86. I can’t get my head around wiring these switches. Help please

 

Hey man it may say my name in the thread title but I wouldn’t tell others to not contribute. There’s going to be things that I don’t know or haven’t had any experience with. What your asking to do, with the restrictions, isn’t a simple deal.

Without purchasing a complete lighting controller or some type of device I do not see a way to make it work without relays

 

Since you have Led illuminated switches it will be easier to switch it on the positive side

coming out of that green connector we have...

black— ground for the LED lights on the switch

red— 12v out put going to relay

white or green should be input voltage for the switch and power for the LED in the switch.

the easy way to tell this is hook the switch up to one of these green connectors. Set the switch to the “On” position aka towards the bar. Get ur multimeter and set it to ohms. Place the ground or positive probe to the red wire. Take your other probe and test the green and white wire. Which ever one gives you the reading in ohms is input voltage for the switch. The other is the power for the led



post a picture of the back of the switch

 

I appreciate your input bud. Thank you

 

So to be clear. You are saying that the relay should now be switched on the positive side? Does this mean that each switch will require a ground coming back to the auxiliary panel?

 

Thanks.
Here is his solution:

 

Can I ask questions about electrical problems I’m having or are you just wanting projects? @Kens04Taco

 

I think anything goes...

 

the relay doesn’t care if you switch it off the negative side or positive side.

if you don’t have illuminated switches I like switching off the negative circuit because you basically run all the negative triggers out to the relays and can have all the ground inputs connected and then a single wire comes off and goes to a ground. You can normally catch a ground off a bolt inside the truck either near the center console or near the kick panel that will work

When I have illuminated switches I tend to trigger it off the positive because normally I can just rob power off the input side of the switch to power my leds. Now depending on if you use a 12v constant, switched accessory, or day time running circuit will effect if you will have power without an extra step. In the end you have a switch that’s just bridging either a ground or 12v to trigger the relay. Depending on how many wires you already have under the dash and what your tastes are will determine how you wire you leds. LEDs and relays pull very little current which allows you to be creative with how you wire them and allows for bonding wires for simplifying and cleaning up wiring.

 

Also what’s commonly done is you have a constant 12v circuit thats jumped from input terminal to input terminal across the switches. Then you hook the led 12v+ to the dash light circuit, shifter light, anything that flows current while the DRLs are on. Ground goes to ground. And the outputs go to the relays

 

Hey I changed the first post since this is a question that comes up a lot. Yeah man basically anything goes. Just as long as it electrical related

 

Job I had today. 17gx470
Squadron fog upgrade
Rear chase lights with oem switch
Rear camera relocation...


Man who ever wheels in this thing it living the life it’s really nice.

 

Awesome thank you. I’m having a weird intermittent issue. I turn the truck off and pull the key out, and my radio stays on. The clock also stays on but is dimmer than when the truck is running. I’m thinking maybe ignition switch. Where do you think I should start?

 

Hey buddy,
Is it a factory radio?

do you have an electrical mods inside the cab?

 

Aftermarket alpine radio with door speakers, amp and subwoofer. Only other thing I have is an AUX button for 2 pod lights I have on my front bumper.

 

Does the radio turn off if you open the door?