Ken the electrical guy Q n A

No. Only way to turn it off is to disconnect the battery. Though it is intermittent. Sometimes it turns off with the key as its supposed to, sometimes it stays on.

 

If you want to rule out the ignition switch remove the ignition from the dash and Try to make the truck do what your describing. I’m assuming turning it off and on. There should be a dedicated accessory wire on the ignition. We know it’s not the run position or the truck wouldn’t turn off. So we just need to test for voltage at that wire when the key is in the off position. If you read 12volts when the key is in the off position the ignition switch is done and replace it.

If not...

your backfeeding constant 12v into the radio circuit. If I’m not mistaken we have a few things on our radio circuit. I think we have a fuse that controls a few things and it’s called accessory or something I can look tomorrow.

The radio is on switched circuit, so if the switch is actually off (meaning we checked the ignition switch and it’s functioning as it should)...then some how were getting 12volts up passed the switch. This could be a small short somewhere in the circuit. The events that cause it to be intermittent are probably very small and unlikely but as I like to quote...

“When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth”

check the ignition switch and get back to me. If it’s not the switch I’ll tell you how to move forward with ur trouble shooting

 

I have a dash switch/ relay setup i installed for some incoming bed lights. I accidently had the switch power on a non switched circuit. The only draw here is the small led light on the switch. Will this drain my battery? to what extent?

 

No it won’t drain your battery. Send it

 

Hell yea man thanks. The reason im putting off the install is because a fog light blew, so money goes to that first. And my harness isn't long enough. Only reaches the bottom front corner of the bed. Im gonna do strips under the bed runners. Do you know the best way to run a nicly sheathed wire from the engine bay to the bed? Awesome to have this help on here bro

 

You’re welcome.
Yeah I do. I’ve done this on multiple first gens.
First off I would make sure that the wire is in some type of loom. The plastic corrugated split loom isn’t the prettiest but it does well against water, heat, and dirt. You can loom it outside of the truck and then wrap it with electrical tape to keep it extra sealed. The factory normally does a spiral and not a full wrap but that’s up to you. You’ll start at the battery and make your way down the driver side fender. There’s enough room in between the fuse box/battery and the fender to tuck it into there out of sight. Wire the fuse close to the battery because everything in between the fuse and battery is unprotected. You can also go in front of the battery and straight down to the frame along the fan shroud. I personally don’t prefer this way but I have done it.

so from the battery go back to the fire wall and then cut across towards the engine. There will be some hard lines and the steering shaft so would want to make sure it clears any brake lines and do not zip tie them to them. Break fluid can get very hot and depending on what wire/loom you use you risk a short if there’s contact. After you drop down below you have some options. If you have a long flexible rod or sometimes a metal clothes hanger can work you can go into the frame through some holes and make your way back to the rear. The frame has some internal plates so you won’t be able to go straight back you’ll have to hop in and out of the frame till you get to the rear. I’ve gone through the frame all the way right before the rear axle and then went up over the axle on top of the frame and followed the factory wire loom back to the tail lights or if you want to enter through the front of the bed you can do that too. Just make sure you use a gromet or something like I posted in the picture

I know that’s a lot of info so when in doubt, follow the factory wiring loom and zip tie it with it. Where ever they run wires is a safe place to put wires.

You want to make sure it has some extra protection (loom). Make sure it’s fused properly based off your load. And stay away from anything that moves and gets hot. Remember that suspension comes up and down so keep that in mind lol. Trust me I’ve seen some shit.

This is a picture of a way that I route large gauge wires through sheet metal that will exposed to the elements on either side. If it’s a small wire you can a grommet and black silicon to seal it.

 

You're incredibly helpful!! the one time i want some ground clearence is when i crawl under the thing lol. ive got the split plastic stuff and its so damn stiff maybe walmart garbage wont be best. Im gonna order some better stuff.

This was a lil harder than the drop in backup camera haha

 

I’m glad I could help bud. Electrical materials can be expensive. I don’t ever recommend going cheap on anything electrical but I’m not going to lie and say I’ve always bought the best of the best. Sometimes the middle of the road stuff will have to do but never the trash.

keep me posted on your project and let me know if you need any help.

 

Do you prefer adding to this thread or a direct message?

 

Hmm that’s a good question.
I’d say if it’s something that will benefit everyone to read then keep it here but if u wana shoot the shit and maybe do some back and forth maybe dm

 

Question for you Ken - I’m going to disconnect my battery while I clean my MAF. I know I don’t have to disconnect it but I prefer to. My question - should I use a plug in 9V battery saver to save various settings like radio, clock and computer memory? I read one article where they recommended against using the saver for certain technical reasons. I’ve used it previously without problem. What say you?

 

when you disconnect the battery you have a few things to consider. Depending on the year of the truck this can change. If I’m going to do a basic battery swap I normally hook up a jumper box to the cables before where they mate with the battery. I like to cover the positive with a towel Or something just in case it slips and hits something metal. I remove the old battery. Replace with the new. And then reconnect my terminals. Once they are tight then I remove the jumper box cables. Boom no lost radio. No ecm reset.
I would note that disconnecting your battery while servicing the maf is unnecessary but I applaud your caution and foresight. I do things that aren’t always necessary while working on stuff and it’s nice to have a failsafe.

 

You are right, I was being overly cautious. I just cleaned the MAF without disconnecting the battery. Easy easy no prob.

 

hey man you were doing the right thing by erring on the side of caution.

Cool man glad it went well

 

Sorry, he was giving me a lesson in standard relays which i already know plenty about.. big post explaining how to do something i already had explained i know how to do. I was just seeing if there is an alternative relay set up or some other kind of switch. I've seen larger relays/relays with more than 4 wire connections so that was the information i was after. wasn't being a dick, just being straight forward so he didn't try explaining more about standard relays to me.

 

Gotcha. There are a few types of relays that have more than 4 pins. Check out a DPDT relay they’re fun to play with an I use them two reverse polarity over a two wire lighting circuit

 

Like this 8 Pin

$13 TWTADE/JTX-2C, MK2P-I DPDT Power Relay with Plug-in Terminal Socket Base, DC 12V Coil, 8 Pin 2NO 2NC

https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-JTX-2...ds=8+pin+12+volt+relay&qid=1576533011&sr=8-11


Or this 11 pin

$5 uxcell S13052300am0141 DC 12V Coil 5A 3PDT General Purpose Power Relay HH53P 11 Pin W Base Socket

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-s1305...ds=11+pin+12+volt+relay&qid=1576532889&sr=8-4

 

So I'm a wiring idiot and would like some advise/help. Have read all the post and realize I know even less than I thought. All this talk is WAY over my head but I won't elaborate. So here's my issue. I installed a 32" hidden light bar that came with a wiring harness and push button switch. It has an inline fuse and relay. I cut off the push button switch and plan to use a ch4x4 switch installed in an open slot. I have the light bar wired to the harness and have the wires for the switch run through the firewall. The harness has 3 wires, the switch 4. I attached black to black, green to white and red 1 to blue. When I connect the wiring to the battery the light bar lights up when I push the switch like it should. When the light bar is off the truck on the switch is lit up. I don't have the red 2 wire hooked up yet but did test it and the led light bar words on the switch do light up when the light bar is turned on like it should. But here is my issue. I DONT want the truck to light up on the switch when the truck is not running. I don't mind it being lit when the truck is running but would prefer it to light up only when my headlights are on like my other switches. So this is where I'm stumped as to what to do in order to resolve my issue. I don't have an aux fuse box so planning on running straight to the battery. So does anyone have any suggestions to steer me in the right direction or am I stuck with a switch that's always on? Not sure how much battery it uses to stay lit but I don't want a dead truck. I'm hoping there is a solution and I'm lost at this point and if someone does please try and explain in baby talk as all this electrical talk blows my mind...lol. I have pics attached if that helps. Thanks.

 

All you have to do is get power for the switch led from the drl circuit. Basically anything in the truck that lights up when you rotate the headlight switch to day time will work. The leds pull very little power so you’ll be ok.
I’ve used the shifter illumination circuit, dash lighting circuit, cigarette lighter illuminated ring circuit. It all depends on where the switches are located. If you need help past here lemme know

 

I understand that part as I played with that by attaching the red 2 wire that lights the "led light bar" light in the switch to the tail lights. It only comes on when the lights are on. But the light bar will only work when the red 1 is attached to the blue wire hence lighting up the "truck" design in the switch which I'm trying to avoid. That's where my issue is. I don't know how to keep the switch working the light bra without being lit 24/7. Hope this makes sense.