Is my starter bad?

The shop should also load tested the battery when they checked the voltage but if it's the original battery that's 7 yrs old, it's likely this. If not battery, then you will need the fuel pressure tested to eliminate issues related to the fuel pump.

 

Just checked and I don't have any codes

 

I understand these trucks send power to the fuel pump only when starting or running. Simply turning the key to ON position does not energize the fuel pump as in other vehicles. I know it's lame but it's what it is.

The starter is cranking the engine and the battery has been tested for good voltage and good amperage. Only other thing I can think of is fuel pump/pressure or ignition control module or something simple like that, but then I'd think those would trip a code.

3 things needed for combustion: fuel, compression and spark. Good luck OP.

 

Thanks. It hasn't done it for a few days now. I should of tried starting it about 30 minutes after I got to work. Busy day so forgot

 

Am I missing something? In the second post the OP states that the engine turns over which by definition means that starter and battery are functioning

 

So spent last week hunting in Montana. My truck wouldn't ever start the first try after warmed up. I had to crank it a second or two and it would start the 2nd time every time. Could I have some sort of vapor lock?

 

Similar to what DGXR said. Sounds to me like a fuel problem. As if fuel pressure is bleeding off. But why only after warmed up? If you had a way to watch fuel pressure, say a temporary installed fuel pressure gauge, you’d be able to confirm or eliminate it as a problem.

 

Swap the horn and starter relays and see if that changes anything

 

Both the starter AND battery can be checked for free at any auto parts store.

 

I would be looking at a failing fuel pump or f.p. relay that doesn't like getting warm.

 

HAHA I was waiting for someone to say something. The starter is working and the battery has been tested good yet we went a full page of people saying replace the battery or starter.

loosen clean and retighten the battery terminals first since even though they can look tight it can be dirty under the metal. I have definitely had this.

 

Going back to the original post, you cleaned the battery terminals with baking soda. If you didn't remove the battery terminals, brush the posts and terminals, you might have oxidation on the posts causing a problem.

Cold starts fine, then doesn't want to start warmed up, starts fine warmed if turned off and restarted. That makes me think it's not the battery or starter. I'd brush the terminals and posts first since the battery is easily accessible. If the problem persists, I'd look at the fuel system. I've heard people having the long crank to start problem after doing the urd fuel pump and filter upgrade due to the fuel lines not holding pressure after shut down. Doyou smell gas? See a gas leak? Is the fuel filter clogged? Is the fuel pump relay good? I've seen a couple intermittent no crank problems which ended up being a loose or bad connection at the starter.

 

that's good, but have them also check the cold cranking amps it shouldn't dip below 10 volts when cranking cold

 

If you have a multi meter with peak high and low ability, you can test the battery yourself. Starter voltage drop test, connect meter to battery, positive on positive, negative on negative of course. Set the meter for peak low dc volts, start the engine. The meter will record the lowest voltage at the battery with the starters load on it. 10.5 or better is for alternators putting out 14.7. New alternators put out around 14.2, I like to see 10.2-10.1 or so. If your results are below that, the battery is weak. Look for things like loose belt, bad connections. If you get say 10.0, it doesn’t mean you have to go get a new battery. If you get say 9.5 or less, that’s weak enough to notice slow cranking. Sometimes you can run high idle for awhile then a retest will be higher. I’ve also seen batteries not want to hold a charge. Run high idle, wait a few minutes, test is failing again, needs new battery. Trying to do this test with a meter without the peak feature won’t work. You can try to watch the needle or number dip but it’s not nearly as accurate. I also have one of those 500 amp load testers, which fails everything except a brand new battery so I only use it to test alternators.
Since you are able to start it, with the intermittent long crank issue, I don’t think you have a problem with the battery.

 

Still talking about the battery eh?

 

I'm curious if you were able to resolve the problem? Decided to live with it as is? Some people troubleshoot for a living and like to hear what the problem was.

 

I've been home since the weekend before Thanksgiving and it's done it maybe 2 times since I've been home. But that week hunting in Montana turning it on and off all the time it did it almost every time. Guy at my work is going to bring a fuel pressure gauge for me but I don't know how that will help when it's so random. Sometimes cold starting now it struggles but will start. I don't know what to do. Just wait for something to give and then fix it?

 

Define struggles. Cranks over slowly? Cranks fine but longer than normal? Starts but doesn't idle? Tries to wrestle the keys out of your hand?
A better definition would help get you a better diagnosis.

 

It's hard to explain. I would say just longer than normal and when it starts it seems like it's maybe missing? Or lacking air? It's rough for a few seconds and then fine. Smells rich.

 

Clean the throttle body