Rear end leaking

I had the same thing. I sand blasted. Found 4 holes. Used 2 gas tank repair kits from napa with a piece of fiberglass. Waited for it to dry. Primed it, painted it. I need to either rhino line it or another coat of paint. But it's holding well. Just be careful of the fill and drain plugs. Mine were rotted badly.

 

This is a solid idea too.

Some gas tank repair kits have a paint that is thick, so they fill any future pin holes from leaking.
Not sure if you're referencing a rust remover kit or kit with paint too. I'm guessing no paint unless you filled it up and then drained it and didn't care about the gears?

That's how we do it on moped tanks. You treat the rust, you clean it 10000000 times, you etch the metal with a liquid, then you fill it with special paint and drain it.

When I used the rust remover, it created a ton of new tiny pin holes in my tank. Ate through the rust which gave me more holes

 

Are you certain that the fluid on the diff is gear oil?

 

Man that rust looks insane. I just looked again haha. I could prob take a centering punch and poke a hole through it.

 

Your diff. looks like it was left in an oven too long...

 

How would I check if the diff breather is doing its job?

 

Jesus. I know we're all DIY'ers here, but some problems are best left to a doctor!

 

CA rocks or wot

 

That cap like thing on the end should spin freely and have a little wiggle room, like play in it. Ideally it functions as a one way vent for the low pressure that can build up in the diff

 

can you wait until next week?
i assume weather patterns move to the east and in in central USA is supposed to be near 50 degrees this weekend

 

And honestly the frame on this truck is not bad, it's got some surface rust but it's not as bad as some of you would think. The underside of the cab is where the rust is bad and flaky

 

so no need to remove it to see if it functions and not clogged?

i think i coated my diff vent with FF, is that a problem

 

I could be wrong

 

i am not sure how it functions exactly, other than relieving pressure

 

Emmit:

I'm not buying what others are posting.

I may change my opinion after you go after it with a wire brush. Snap some pics after a couple of days to see if the oil stain reappears.

I agree, as another Michigan member, that rust is pretty minimal for what we are used to.

If you do find a hole, let me know. We can put together a plan to weld it closed.

In addition, hit the fill plug with your choice of penitrating oil. We do want that to be able to be removed.

 

It could be.

Remove the FF quick and easy by spraying with starting fluid or brake clean. Both will dissolve the FF. Starting fluid is cheaper. They are close to being the same thing.

 

This problem is so far from needing a doctor that if you're a "DIY'er" you would understand. In the salt states these diff covers will all rot through with pin holes. That is my technique for these and it works. $100 a new cover but have to pull the third member. Or $1500 for axle housing plus time on these. I think I'll stick with my DIY, sorry you didn't like my method.

 

There is no diff cover. It's all part of the "punkin". I think you are thinking of a different manufacturer.