Does this look right?

That's insane you think it's okay for the cotter pin to not be engaged.

Please don't ever work on my truck.

 

It's not ok but it happens a lot even on MOOG joints. It does no good returning it because the replacement will also be drilled wrong. You either need to find a different brand or go to the dealer. Quality control is horrible when it comes to TRE holes.

 

Why don't you follow your own advice and find a different brand or go to the dealer???????

I think it's insane you do this to other people's vehicles.

 

DEFFENTLY NOT RIGHT, the taper is wrong, or the overall diameter isn't correct. It'll probably last a few days until you suspension flexes, control arm hits the knuckle and pulls the ball joint apart.

 

I dont do it to other peoples vehicles you silly sally i work on my own and it does happen. Most of the vehicles i have owned that i have ran into this problem on are the dealer didn't stock parts for anymore mostly AMC Jeeps. Some people put washers under the castle nut to get the cotter pin to work like it should but i dont like the idea of it, it reminds my too much of wheel spacers.

 

I apologize, the way you said the number of vehicles you've done this to sounded to me like you work on other people's vehicles too. I actually thought of that right after I posted.


You're still never touching my truck, because it's still insane you do that, but I guess that's good you're only doing it to your vehicles.

But again, I'd just suggest you take your own advice in the future and get a different brand or go do the dealer for parts that fit correctly.

 

LOL yes i will get right on over the the AMC dealer

 

Or the other half of your advice: another brand



But whatever, this isn't a conversation about sourcing quality AMC parts, this is a Toyota forum.

 

MOOG is the cheap stuff. It's crap. It's cut too deep. Do a search it's been covered before.
No QC and steel is soft. Buy Toyota that 555 doesn't mean shit.

 

I replaced the steering on this jeep and i remember some of the holes not being to high but i dont remember how high they were. But after i Dana 44 swapped it and went crossover with Moog GM TRE's the holes were aligned well. I am usually disappointed in Moog quality i dont think their quality control is very good. And there is not that many quality makers of tie rod ends Moog is about it unless you want a Chinese joint with a plastic socket for $15 that will need replaced yearly.

 

Well yeah with Japanese vehicles you have more choices then Moog, they should be avoided.

 

I talk about this in my balljoint rant on my build thread. Moog is the cheapest I'd be willing to go for lower balljoints. I had them for 6+ years and no one died. They fit perfectly. I can't speak for too many other moog products, but for the most part they have been "adequate".

As for 555 v. OEM, I don't think the relatively small increase in quality of OEM justifies the cost. They're double the cost, and from what I've seen, not double the quality.

In the end it doesn't matter how much you've spent on your ball joints, you can't just install them and forget about them. Even OEM should be checked regularly and replaced at regular intervals.

 

Where are you guys buying 555's from these days?

 

555 does not mean Sankei.

It can...but doesn't.

There's another thread where someone put on an aftermarket (MOOG I think) and the taper was cut so deep the rubber rubbed as he turned the wheel.

That's the thing. Consistancy and I'm no purist. I bought Sankei's and found them to be 'shit'. One side was cut different than the other.

 

I bought mine from a Co that Adverts here and sells high angle boots also.

Neither product was worth a shit.

Same crap as from AutoZone.

 

Well im glad you're not bitter about it.

Anybody else? - Napa wants nearly $90 for them. Low range @ $65

 

The only 555 components I have installed are the 555 inner tie rods that I got from Low Range Offroad, installed maybe 4 months ago and been happy with them so far.

 

Lowrangeoffroad

I am currently running these, and they have been nothing but stellar.

These are made in japan, and every bit as good as the OEM ones. You're just not paying the premium like that $45 t-shirt with a Nike symbol on it.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/1995-5-2004-toyota-tacoma-4x4-lower-ball-joints-made-in-japan.html

 

Yep.

 

@jbrandt can you share with us your basic process of burning out the old bushings in the LCAs?

based on this post its looking like the bushing replace is the best bet as far as the LCAs are concerned. OEM Toyota LCAs are like $205 a piece, so $410 to replace versus what? $70 for new whiteline bushings? OP, I guess if I were you I would start with returning those LBJs and trying OEM or Sankei 555s and see if that solves your problem. If not, you might want to take your original LCAs and press in new bushings and swap em out. Did you end up buying new camber/caster bolts for the LCAs?