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Does this look right?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by PrerunnerVsix, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Dec 18, 2019 at 6:53 PM
    #61
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    I don't really see a disadvantage with that. Unless your bushings are rust buckets.
     
  2. Dec 18, 2019 at 8:04 PM
    #62
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Yeah, that's definitely not right. Return that crap.

    Now that you've done it once, it'll be super fast the next time! o_O

    best of luck. If you're concerned that the poly bushing make a harsher ride. Just get some oem style rubber ones and have a shop press them for you. Or go buy one of those harbor freight 20 ton presses for like $150...
     
  3. Dec 19, 2019 at 10:59 AM
    #63
    cast718

    cast718 Well-Known Member

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    you guys have any idea if that HF 12 ton press will be adequate for the bushing press-in? $129 minus 20% = $103 bux for the 12 ton.

    also, so what was the conclusion on those chinese LCAS? the hole for the LBJ bolt was milled too big at the factory? so in an OEM LCA, the hole should be sized "just right" to accept the LBJ bolt?
     
  4. Dec 19, 2019 at 11:10 AM
    #64
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    I think the 12 would be fine but I've heard of people having problems with the Harbor Freight 12 ton press as far as it's shape and functionality...the 20 ton gets much better reviews and that's the one I'd get
     
  5. Dec 19, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #65
    PrerunnerVsix

    PrerunnerVsix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I haven’t taken it apart again but the hole isn’t right on the new ones.
     
  6. Dec 19, 2019 at 11:22 AM
    #66
    jbrandt

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    Yeah, I just got that coupon too! lol
    The 12 ton would probably be fine for bushings, but the 20 isn't that much more, and opens you up to doing dumber (bigger) things. That said, don't expect to do front wheel bearings with even the 20 ton. Those things are notorious for needing like 50 tons (so I've heard).

    Also, I'm not entirely sure you'll get the right fittings included with the press to press the bushings in/out. Maybe? I dunno, but something to plan for...

    Likely the hole is just out of tolerance on those LCAs, so the BJ goes WAY too far up the shaft. I've said before that there is no reason to replace the LCAs unless there is specific damage to the LCAs themselves. Like a crack or one of those huge rivets is loose (not something I've ever heard of happening, btw).
     
    High Noon likes this.
  7. Dec 19, 2019 at 11:25 AM
    #67
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Damn the wheel bearings really take that much to press in? That's crazy
     
  8. Dec 19, 2019 at 1:47 PM
    #68
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    LOL...MOOG is the cheap stuff, OEM is what to actually use.
     
  9. Dec 19, 2019 at 1:53 PM
    #69
    jbrandt

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    I guess I should say what I heard is people using a 50 ton press, not that it takes 50 tons. It's likely right at the limit of a 20 ton.
     
    eon_blue[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Dec 19, 2019 at 1:55 PM
    #70
    eon_blue

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    I've seen ACDelco and other brand LBJs and tie rods online for dirt cheap, those look so sketchy. You can get an ACDelco ball joint and tie rod all-in-one kit for like 80 bucks, sounds terrifying to me lol
     
  11. Dec 19, 2019 at 2:25 PM
    #71
    jbrandt

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    Yeah, I've seen people post Amazon links to a tie rod/ball joint "kit" (upper/lower BJs, inner/outer TREs) for like $60. I'm betting those are also the people who are least likely to continue inspecting their BJs regularly, too. Freaking scary.
     
    eon_blue[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Dec 19, 2019 at 2:46 PM
    #72
    Martian__

    Martian__ Well-Known Member

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    I’ve seen many cars/trucks come in the shop like this with aftermarket parts. Not a big deal as long as it’s torqued to spec. The nut will not come loose and the cotterpin isn’t not meant to hold it torqued down. This happens with aftermarket parts. Moog is the “better” option of aftermarket brands. The problem looks to be the control arm hole/taper. Honestly it’s best to use the oem arm due to the quality of the metal, replace the bushings by burning them out or whatever option you wish. Buy some white line bushings or energy, I like white line because everything is new. Energy likes to have u reuse the sleeves. Check the instructions for each to decide which to buy. The ride will not be rough or anything like that. It’s just lower control arm bushings. You’re not replacing everything with polyurethane so it’s not going to feel like a stiff race car.
     
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  13. Dec 19, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #73
    TacoTaco02

    TacoTaco02 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure where the whole MOOG is the cheap brand is coming from. They make great products as long as you get their premium line. We had very few warranty issues with Moog products.

    However, last month I spoke with Duralast reps at SEMA in Vegas who requested I come see their products that they said they've improved drastically. They pulled out a Moog balljoint cut in half and compared it to their new Duralast line and I was beyond impressed. The Duralast had a much larger balled and had a line on the ball so the grease could travel the line and grease the whole joint vs just the bottom of the socket where the zerk was.
     
    koditten likes this.

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