NW WA Meet / BS Thread

2” on the metal and 1 3/4” on the flares. The trim makes it look deeper. 2” was perfect for coming out on the cab corner and CMC. Made a sweet jig outta a wooden ruler, 3/8 hole, pencil and a wood screw. I used a sharpie on the back and had to pick a side of the line because it’s too fat.

 

Roger that, did you mean 2 1/4 on the flare? That's what you did on the back too if I remember right. looks good man and no more rub!

 

Same, waiting for these 315’s to wear out before i make the jump

 

1 3/4” sorry was try to eat a sandwich and text. Just enough to over lap the metal and hide it.

 

priorities

 

Yeah, it was really close, there was 2' of air on the passenger rear tire...

 

Shit I totally didn't read the screen name on that post earlier, and just based off of a white fender and the snorkel and random tube bumper, I assumed it was you. Now that you quoted it, I realized it was @Shadowhunter . Didn't even notice the scs rims either til now.

 

How about the Blacktail?

 

I’m accepting game meat donations. Notice how i specified game meat and not just meat in general.

 

Naw... your good I’m pretty sure anything involving an ISO for Gamey Big Buck Blacktail meat in the PNW Craigslist adds would probably get at least a 3 day ban.

 

To piggyback on this, if you guys have scraps, we make our own cat food because we are fuckin weirdos.

 

@bobsuruncle 2k clear, that is the only way to clear coat what ever you paint from spider webs. We did a summer long experiment with all brands of rattle can paint and clear. Didn't matter the prep, flash time dry time ect. All the single stage clear will do this. 2k clear is a epoxy, it will harden you can cut and buff if tempted and you can get show quality paint with rattle cans

 

Fuck. Now I see it. After the 20th time looking. I was thinking to myself, now he's just fucking with me. Just now I noticed the rib cage.

 

That's odd. I had already 1 coat of clear on it. It didn't happen till I applied the 2nd coat a day later. Granted the first coat was a light one, and the second coat was not quite running.

 

What was the temp where you did it? I have had issues with painting metal surfaces in the cold. Even if it was inside and warm if the part itself was still cold it can cause the paint to orange peel.

 

I had it in the garage and a salamander heater running periodically to keep the temp around 70-75°. And also the lid open to allow air to warm both sides of the aluminum. The only time the temp would have dropped would be over night till the time I got home and fired the heater back up again, ~16hrs later. Inside temp maybe got into the low 50's over night. I had it pretty toasty when I called it a night and turned everything off. Or so I thought.

 

Fresh coats will offgas for weeks. One solution is to use an acrylic like PPG Centauri or a catalyzed 2 part polyurethane like sterling or awlgrip. ( wear a respirator,as the catalyst is cyanide based) If you are using enamel, it needs to cure for about a month or so before you topcoat, or you will get a nice wrinkle finish. Lacquer is an option although it scratches easily, but dries really fast.
As I used to run a shipyard, i estimate I have either sprayed or supervised about 100,000 gallons of paint application.
BTW you can spray Centauri with a preval sprayer and it comes out pretty good, although an hvlp works better since u can control the air pressure.

 

Sam, I am here to dethrone your trail couch with a new king of offroad plushiness.


(just kidding, this thing will hardly even see a gravel road, much less actual offroad action )

 

I'm jelly, I keep kicking around the idea of upgrading to the 150 platform, but it would likely cost me a fortune. Congrats man, thats a nice ride.

 

Wait, is that a 570?