Body Mount Relocate Kit (RedGoatFab & Haws)

It’s really a two person job. One cutting / welding, one on fire watch...

The now banned Jon (@stairgod) helped me do it.

I pulled all of the wiring away from the kick panels on the inside. I pulled the ECU and the UCON. There isn’t any carpet in my truck, but that would have to be pulled back as well. I unbolted and moved everything from the inner fenders. I had to space the fuse box under the hood up with wood. Cut out the battery box (AGM battery now in cab). There is also padding on both sides of the firewall that will be a fire hazard if not cut back. Then I pulled the coilovers out so we could set the truck right on the bump stops.

At this point, Jon came up and helped me cut the holes. We just kept cutting and turning the tires until nothing rubbed.

In my case, we actually ended up cutting back into the cab enough that some of the vertical structure was removed. This had to be put back together with 1/8” plate prior to covering the holes with sheet metal.

I bought a bean bag and body hammer and began trying to form panels. It started out well. I could weld the sheet metal no problem. Forming it though? Different sorry... I quit JUST before tools started to fly and called Jon. He graciously offered to come back up and help.

He taught me how to form the panels. I’d like to think that I could do it on my own now. He got them formed and in place (totally saving my ass). Then I finished welding it all in.

37s are a TON of work. They also, however, make a significant difference on the rocks over the 35s. More than I expected TBH. And 33s? Which, apparently, are the right sized tire... the difference is huge.

I also did a 1”BL and cab mount relocate (obviously) before beginning the tubbing process.

Another consideration is the intake. I ended up loosing about 1/3 of the intake hold in the inner fender. Due to this, I lost the snorkel and did a cowl intake.

Almost forgot, I lost windshield washer reservoir as well. I had to put in a smaller after market one.

I will note here that the seam sealer, carpet, and firewall padding are all substantial fire hazards. I highly recommend using the buddy system.

Another buddy of mine, I won’t call him out via user name here, almost burned his truck down doing this. He looked up after welding and saw flames in the windshield. Had to take an extinguisher to it. INSIDE his attached garage. Be careful boys.

Some pics. You don’t see many pics of the process for some reason.










@WickedWendy

 

Awesome, thanks for the response, what gauge material and what gears are you running?

 

No problem

I believe I used 20 gauge. It’s been a few months now. I went back and forth between buying 18 and 20.

I’m running 4.88s. Same as I had for 35s. The Supercharger makes it fine for the street. The Marlin Crawl Box that I have coming Monday will make it more than fine for the rocks.

 

We are still manufacturing these Body Mount Relocate Kits. We now have them for 0", 1" and 2" Body Lifted rigs. Customer feedback has shown that depending on where you have mounted your Rock Sliders this mount may need a little modification to fit around the leg of the slider as it moves the body mount back 3". These kits are $99 and that includes being shipped via USPS Priority Mail.

 

Got any interior pics after this process?
I take it you lose the kick panel and stuff?

 

Nope. Just trimmed to fit

 

Like nothing happened. Haha. Sweet! I’m dreading doing the trimming and welding...

 

Relocate will be here Monday!

 

It’s a lot of work. Worth it though.

 

@Aron K.

 

This looks great, until the Marlin Crawler kit finally comes out. Of course in my price point this would come in handy. Running 35x12.50s on a 3" fox coilover. Even my INSAIN FAB version chop hits.

 

Is that an in cab snorkel??

 

Picks up the air from inside the cowl in front of the windshield.

 

Nice work! Got a photo of the other side? I want the use of a snorkel but not the hole in my fender... also concerned if I reroute air intake in cab, I’ll hear sucking noise.... hmmm

 

You'll also lose some HVAC air power potential as well, as the intake is robbing the vent of available air being delivered to it.

 

Good to know thanks

 

Second pic of the blue Tacoma is my truck. I've never had a problem in the last few years of running it. Just a bit more annoying to check the air filter but not too bad. Haven't noticed any other downsides.

 

Neither of those pictures/trucks are mine. I saved that information for my future reference.

The air isn't being picked up from inside the cab, it's inside the cowl which is separated from inside the cab.

 

You've got to be joking.

If air is removed from air what takes it's place? More air. Because ambient air pressure is at 14.6 psi at sea level. Most boosted vehicles aren't even getting 14.6 psi in their intake manifolds.

 

No I'm not joking. The dude who originally came up with the mod stated it himself after setting aside some good time testing it out Mr. Wormhole.

Since you're Mr. Speedracer I'm sure you don't use the HVAC much if at all but some people like to have their cake and eat it by having their creature comforts. It's a legit concern of others who have been interested in the mod in the past and it's going to be a legit concern moving forward.

I really don't feel like putting up with sarcastic remarks so any attempts at replying to me will go unreplied to as I will not read it so enjoy talking to yourself. If I want to deal with snooty remarks like that I'll go talk to my girlfriend when she is on her menstrual or go hang out at the local high school.

Im going to enjoy my non 1 bar supercharger now. Have a nice day sir.