2nd gen manual transmission fix

Maybe contact your local parts stores. I do believe my local NAPA resurfaces flywheels, although I haven't done that in a long time so I can't say for sure if they do or not. Sounds like LuK didn't use the correct ring gear on the flywheel, or the ring gear was put on backwards!

I do think the OEM flywheel is a good weight for these trucks if they are pulling double duty on the street and on the trails.

Looks good!

 

I was just over on the FJCruiserForums and someone had posted an update on their CM kit install. After taking out their clutch, this is what they found! Notice anything wrong with those fingers on the diaphragm!? Wild how uneven the wear is and almost to the point of serious failure. I'm curious what would have happened if the fingers broke and the TOB pushed through....this is a direct result from the constant preloaded TOB on those fingers with the OE setup and probably can attribute some of it to the way the clutch fork actuates the TOB in an awkward uneven way. I know the TOB should pivot on the clutch fork but something must have cause the TOB to stop being able to pivot. Just wild speculation at this point but pretty interesting picture.

 

What clutch is that

 

I believe he said it was the OEM clutch

 

Correct. OE Toyota / Aisin clutch with about 20k miles.

 

Bad news when those plastic dampers, at the ends of the springs, break. Not a fan of that design.

 

Start stop friction. Wow. Almost wore through for no ability to actuate.

 

Just a heads up for everyone here, we are at 19 people on this second group buy, so just one more person and everyone gets a free oil cap! I think we'll just keep letting the group buy run until the end of the month and those who want to get in on it will still have an opportunity to do so but for those who have all ready expressed interest, I will get you a code from Clutch Masters to be able to start placing an order!

 

Ok guys , I am a certified transmission technician and a member of Tacoma World for the past 7 years .
I help with a bunch of transmission related issues at this forum .The throw out bearing issue has been a huge issue .Your factory Toyota release bearing is a very poor design just waiting to grenade
For those who understand how the clutch on our Tacomas work , This was going to be my fix . I just didnt have a chance to build it before a couple other transmission techs figured it out .
Spend the cash guys . This is a partial fix .
Make yearly adjustments with this upgrade and you will be good to go . Highly suggested for those of you training new teenagers how to drive a manual transmission

What does this company do that no others have done yet ?
They shortened the release bearing making more room for clutch adjustments which prevents the bearing from spinning constantly and partial apply of your clutch
How is this different from factory ?
Your factory release bearing doesnt have room to be adjusted correctly when the clutch disc wears down . This fix is completely adjustable
You factory release bearing begins spinning all the time as your clutch wears down and partially applies the clutch . This fix will prevent the quill and the clutch from premature wear .
Its as easy as that .
They eliminated 2 of biggest problems with the Tacoma clutch .

1- prevented the release bearing from spinning on a constant basis according to the wording on the first page . A little misleading ? False advertising ?
2- prevented your clutch from partially applying
3- prevented further damage to the release bearing quill .
.

I

 

So this is something that only begins happening at a certain point?

 

If you have a manual trans , its happening now .

 

New clutch and TO bearing are in and running. Clutch seems to be working. But, I need to play with some adjustments. Clutch engages like immediately within millimeters of starting to let up on the pedal. I also am having trouble getting it into gear. As if it’s not totally disengaging or dragging. Also, if I just sidestep the clutch, the pedal comes up really slow. As if the fluid is passing through a tiny orifice. I don’t think it would matter during regular driving though. Is that just the nature of a hydro bearing like this? I bled the system as well as I could. No air, nice clean fluid pumping out.

One complaint. The pressure line was excessively long. Had to get creative with the routing to try to prevent air traps. They really should include a shorter line for Tacoma applications.

 

Another note. Before even connecting the pressure line, when looking into the inspection hole, that bearing had quite a ways to go before it contacted the fingers of the pressure plate. Maybe 3/8” or so had to be made up before it made contact. No sure how much travel these things have. I’m wondering if the spacer behind the bearing needs to be thicker.

 

Same thing with mine, the pedal was adjusted way to far down. It's super easy to adjust at the clutch pedal though and you should easily be able to get it to engage and disengage in the middle of the pedal throw. Try adjusting your pedal and see if that clears things up. On my rig if I pop the clutch pedal off the floor the pedal travels slower until the point it reaches the disengagement point and then pops right to the top. Yes there is a small orifice that fluid is traveling out of in the hydraulic bearing housing.

Since the hydraulic bearing kit is a self adjusting system the bearing does start off with what might look like a lot of air gap. The first time you push on the pedal the bearing will make contact with the clutch diaphragm and as your clutch wears those diaphragm fingers start to move out towards the bearing, pushing the bearing a little further back into the housing. There has to be some gap to account for the clutch wearing. As long as the bearing piston doesn't pop out of the housing, which CM hasn't heard happening, you're going to be ok.

 

I played with the pedal adjustment. Futile.

The problem is with the clutch itself. Gotta say, I'm VERY displeased right now. I am not happy about having to do this job twice.

I believe the T/O bearing to be just fine. Seems to be doing it's job with about 3/8" of stroke.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6eTJ-0p7jm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6eS1dSphgt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

That sucks you’re having to do the install twice. I will vouch you are meticulous in your work and want everything done right. With that said, I appreciate all the trial and error your doing. So if the T/O bearing is ok and doesn’t need a thicker spacer then any ideas on what’s up with the clutch plate? Is that a CM clutch kit?

 

Yes. It's their clutch too.



Flywheel machined to their specs. .040" step per Kevin @ Clutch Masters.

 

About to install similar, their clutch with lit in a couple days... Concerning... Will report with any issues I have... I'm doing the fx-100

 

The idea behind this design is to have a gap between the release bearing and pressure plate fingers according to what the manufacturer is stating as well as advertising ( read the advantages on the first page ) . 3/8 of an inch is great . As the clutch disc wears , the gap between the release bearing and pressure plate fingers will decrease . If you dont make yearly adjustments to the clutch , your going to get the same dismal results as the factory clutch that all Tacoma owners are currently suffering with ..... A spinning release bearing , a partial clutch apply.

If you read the advantages on the first page ........They stipulate the release bearing does not turn all the time . Less moving parts . I think a few phone calls need to made to re-assure what they are saying .

 

How would one adjust a clutch? I can adjust the pedal free play height...