2.7l has low power after rebuild.

Fuel lines hooked up in proper orientation?

How old was the fuel in the tank?

At some point you should get an Ultragauge or something similar that can display engine functions. It'd let you know if your throttle is closing while the pedal is depressed. If timing is being retarded. Signs of limp mode without getting a code.

 

Hey kite, I saw where you posted a please & thanks to 2 guys, but didn't see what they had told you. Did they help you find the gremlins???

 

Fuel lines hooked up properly, they are designed so they cannot be put on backwards. Fuel was only 8 weeks old.

Small update, put the truck together and took it for a test drive. Felt pretty normal until I got on the hwy and could still notice a power loss. Trusting that my timing was good I pushed the engine a little harder and got it close to redline. Just slightly underpowered. After about 45mins of driving I got a P0011 code and the truck starting idling rough. Turned it off, cleared the code and gave it a try an hour later. Ran well for a few mins then the code came back.

Sounds like I need to check my oil control valve. Not sure if the p0011 has anything to do with my low power issue or is a new issue.

 

No, I was just tagging them in hopes they could help.

 

Is there a way to take the ECU out of the picture (jump a couple of pins) and set the base ignition timing (not cam timing) with a timing light?

Running well on the low end with loss of power on the high end can also be a sign of having over advanced ignition timing.

My old SCCA car was OBDII, but base ignition timing could be tweaked by moving the cam position sensor. The ECU moved the advance/retard when running, but it started with the base that you could manually set.

There may not be, but worth asking about.

 

If you have some jumpers, you can test and make sure the oil control valve moves. Tested to the battery.

 

This is a problem. While these engines don't crank out big power, they are happy to rev. If you have checked everything else external that you are able, I agree with the skipped timing tooth hypothesis.

 

I pulled the valve cover off and timing is where it should be.

 

Variable valve timing solenoid???

 

Sounds possible since the oil pressure control valve tripped a code.

 

The inability to rev over 3k is a symptom, I believe...

 

I can get it to redline now. Power is just lower than normal, especially in revs above 3ishK.
Putting in a new oil control valve tomorrow. Fingers crossed that was my problem.

 

Andddddd?

Curious minds, the good of the order and all that.....

 

The new oil control valve fixed the code and the rough idle that went along with it. Original problem still exists. Feels good under 3k but over that seems pretty dead.
Have an appointment at Toyota on the 6th. Hopefully they can figure it out.

 

Bummer.

Still voting ignition timing being advanced, with assumption that valve timing is correct.

 

Any idea how I can check this with my Scangauge? I understand when IGN shows 0- ignition is at TDC. Up or down from there is advanced or retarded. How do I know what the figures should be?

 

What's needed is an OE manual that outlines the procedure for setting the base timing. IF that's even possible on your truck, I don't know the process. I'm just winging a diagnosis based on experience with other vehicles.

Maybe @koditten or @Speedytech7 could pitch in here. Either by telling me I'm looney or telling you how to proceed.

 

Found the problem.

I had a small coolant leak from the timing cover. Pulled it off once again to fix and noticed my knock sensor was loose. Happiest I've ever been to find a loose bolt. Runs great through all RPMs now. Very relieved this 10 week project is finally over.

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Knock or crank position sensor (which has a gap setting IIRC?)

 

killer! kudos dude