mA draw w/ truck turned off?

We lock doors, hide key, then slip meter in without disrupting. I usually use a vice grip with my leads and ensure I get a clean reading.

Disconnecting the battery, then inline through meter does wake the meter up.

There is no radio code. Worst case scenario you have to reinitialize the power window.

 

Excellent method, I’ve done that in control systems testing but didn’t think of it, thanks!

 

Hmm - mine has been at 0.25 for about an hour now. Bishop84 said 2 hours - so I will wait at least that long.
I will report after a few hours....

 

Well....kudos to Bishop84: after 2 or so hours the current dropped from 0.25 A to 0.02 A. In other words - I really just have a defunct battery. I want the dealer to replace it...but I already bought aX2Power AGM 24F to replace the factory one. Don't want to take the risk of getting stranded....
I will still keep the appointment, as I want to make sure that the charging circuit is up to par.

Thanks everyone!

Bernie

 

I prefer a battery to fail than a gremlin causing a drain. Some are horrible bastards to fix.

Glad its sorted out!

 

Good news, glad you’ve figured it out, and good advice from Bishop84. I too have learned a lot here.

 

And you need to keep that new AGM maintained properly.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

PSA_FYI-Ground terminal from battery

 

Well ugh - I didn't do enough reading before purchasing the X2Power AGM 24F -- seems like there's no way to boost the alternator voltage enough on my 3rd gen, so I will have to resort to maintenance charging every two weeks or so.

 

AGM battery and cold weather = never again for me

 

Are AGM batteries worse in the cold than regular lead acid batteries?

 

AGM has a slight advantage over flooded when it comes to standard operating temperature range, not speaking from personal experience. You shouldn’t be second guessing your choice of battery, a lot of people run this battery without boosting voltage, should be fine as long as it’s a daily driver. Regular charging will certainly help, they recommend a charger capable of 7 amps or greater

 

Thanks - appreciate the feedback!!

 

Drain the OEM to like 6v and get it tested, install the AGM. Go through Toyota online and tell em it left u stranded. They'll reimburse u the price of OEM.

 

You mean get it tested by Toyota? They did that once already...

 

I think what he is suggesting it get it independently tested after draining it down, then go go online and tell Toyota the battery left you stranded somewhere.

 

What @Speedfreak said. Drain it to kill it good and proper, then go through Toyota online

 

Ford’s spec was 50 milliamps for allowable parasitic draw.

and you’re going to need to let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour for all the modules and network chatter to shut down - if you want to access anything in cab during testing, you’d better grab a screwdriver and latch the door “shut” beforehand so you can get in it without waking anything up
- and you’ll have to trick the hood ajar switch too

 

Lol - I actually don't have to fake it...my battery really struggles after sitting for a couple of days (which doesn't happen all that often). Yesterday evening I drove for about two hours and the no-load battery voltage this morning (at 28 Fahrenheit now and maybe 15 in the middle of the night) is 11.97 V.
I'm assuming at least one hour of driving per day should maintain the charge, right? Also, for those who have done it - how do you start the process of trying to get Toyota to cover the battery...call them?

 

Just go online and get their email. Fire one off and let them figure out which department u need.