3.4L supercharger

If it’s the supercharger it’s pretty rare for it to come apart unless there was a bearing that just exploded or going bad.
How long ago was the supercharger rebuild or how many miles were on the supercharger?

I have literally 600,000 miles on my original grey supercharger but I have it rebuilt completely every 150,000 or so regardless.

Heads possibly.

 

I was approaching the 150k mark. Was planning on a rebuild. The SC has consistently sounded the same over its life. The head gasket issue was something I have suspected for about two years now. Rough start after sitting for a while, etc. This just confirmed the head gasket issue. But also if you go back to my previous posts in this thread I got a loud knocking noise from the engine last week. It sounded like the supercharger. So I immediately turned it off and had it towed home. Pulled the SC and it seems to rotate ok by hand (maybe some very light resistance here and there as I rotated it, but I’m not sure how it felt when I first got it). So No real smoking gun. Also I scoped down the intake manifold and didn’t really see any shavings. I am going to try to recover some of the coolant and see if I can get some of those shavings to come up with it. I’ll keep you guys posted. Anyways I think I’m gonna start searching for a low miles used engine to drop in.

 

Pulled the rotor pack. One of the needle bearings is destroyed. I’m not an expert on the SC internals but the rotors look ok to me?I can make the rotors hit each other. One feels kind of loose. Is this normal when the rotors are removed and not support on the back end?

 

OUCH!

 

the needle bearings control radial movement of the rotors. The rotor plate bearings control horizontal movement the rotors. Either one being out of spec will cause the rotors to contact. Your rotor pack is bad as evidenced by the rub marks on the back of the casing. You need a complete rebuild.

 

Anytime a bearing is going bad the temperature of the case around it will go up. Do you think it would be beneficial to use a Tempilstick to monitor case temp around bearings?
A tempilstik is a paint crayon that melts away at a set temperature. They come in 300,400,500......degree crayons. You'd just need to know what normal operating temp of case around the bearing. Then select the next higher Tempilstik and put a mark as close to the bearing as you can get, while still being visible.
Just thinking out loud here.

 

Well typically you will hear that something is not right with a different noise coming from the supercharger before a bearing actually totally crashes,
That’s your warning sound.
A stick you would have to keep monitoring all the time

 

They sound should alert you for sure. The temp stick would just be another layer of info.

 

Best to inspect the rotor pack every so often for scuffing of the plate, and housing. And also definitely rebuild before 100k.

From what I’ve seen on YouTube they can make some marble noises and growling when they’re bad but these blowers make so much noise it can play mind games with you. As they wear they get louder as well.

I’ve seen posts on here where people say theirs is silent at idle. I think you would have to be deaf to not hear the normal amount of noise that it makes. I may have some vibrations going on that makes the straight cut gears noisier but oil analysis shows that everything is fine and even taking it pretty well with less wear than expected for the miles go between changes.

 

Got mine installed and added the Snow Performance meth injection kit. The only problem is the controller I got with the meth kit does not accurately read the manifold pressure. It's the stage 2 kit with the VC-30 controller. Their tech support is worthless. Does anyone know if it can be calibrated to read the correct boost? I burned through a whole gallon of washer fluid in 10 miles before I figured out that the gauge was way off. Surprisingly, I didn't hydrolock the motor when this happened.

 

Well, you need to make sure you’re getting boost reference from the line between the regulator and the S/C.

then you need to make sure the tank isn’t leaking somewhere. Maybe check the air box too to see if it puddled in there. I would think you would have some surging etc. if it was spraying in vacuum.

 

I’m not familiar with that model but there should be a reference for boost or rpms.
Depending on the model it can be set for spraying at a certain rpm or boost.

For boost there should be a vacuum line, vacuum port into the Vc 30, if not maybe it’s external unit or does not have one.
It would be almost impossible to go through a gallon on water in ten minutes under Boost unless it was completely setup wrong.

1st you setup your spraying only when you need the added fuel let’s say from 4 pounds of boost up.
And you probably want to start out with a 1# nozzle.

It would take you 1000 miles to go through a gallon give or take with this combo because it only spraying in boost.

If your setup to spray in the rpm option and not setup correctly it could be spraying as soon as the engine starts,

Or you have a leak when it’s spraying.

Are you setup for spraying in rpms or Boost

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aPM0QBMZBzc

 

Ill share my setup, AEM methional injection, URD 7th injector, 2.2 pulley, custom DIY cold air intake. only issues, it would hit 10psi at one point, now only about 6psi. thinking it is belt slip. but runs like a beast.

 

probably. Mine slips bad right now. Gonna try a contitech belt next. I’ve been through to many Gates belts.

 

i only have about 3k miles on this belt if that, do you have the urd tension pulley? wondering if that would help

 

No. It’s just a pulley. Does not include an updated tensioner. So it won’t help with slip, was designed to keep the belt from jumping off with a lot of off-roading.

The problem with this design is the tiny 4 rib belt and the poor amount of pulley wrap you get. Belt slip is just part of it, you just have to learn to drive around it.

 

ahh sounds good, cant do much about it then I guess. power at WOT is still pretty impressive I can feel my whole front end lift up when accelerated

 

What altitude are you at?

 

No slipping here with 2" pulley and gates belt
with updated tensioner,
Gates belt 4 me is good for 50k at least and I run her hard,
Try playing around with the belt adjustment