Long Travel BS Thread

Looks good so far. You're planning to go glass? +4? Not a fan of wheels sticking out of glass. A little more aggressive on wheel offset. I need to cut up some mud flaps. Rocks have kicked up everywhere because.. aaaaand I pity those rolling too close on rainy days lol.

 

He’s got +2” glass on there now.

 

Or full send. Keep spacers and move up to a +4 glass. That wide looks mean on yours. What's wheel specs? I wish I could go wider but it looks goofy on FJs

 

wheel off set should work -12 or -24

 

when i slow down at lights or turn slowly all i see is a wall of water

 

@jeff b most people just grind the calipers down as needed.

 

Just make sure your truck doesn't do a front flip if you get a rock stuck in there.

 

Oooh pretty boxes

 

Its very likely your alignment got way out of whack from the install. Changing the lower arms means completely removing the cam bolts. You can get it close with a measuring tape for the time being.

 

Yep.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/

If your toe is out it can be really sketchy but you have a few ways to do it. Another way for toe is putting a string across the center of your rear wheels and run it up to the front and then find where the front wheels are parallel by measuring the same distance from the string from the front and back of the wheel.

Don’t confuse this with thinking the front and rear need to be equal, just the front and rear wheel measurements from the string to the rear wheels and the and the front and rear measurements from the string to the front wheels. We don’t always have equal track width front and rear - the rear wheel is just used to get a parallel line to the frame you can measure the front with. You would probably have a wider front so you might have 5” from the string from both the front and back of the rear wheel and 1.5” from the front and back of the front wheel.

Here’s the basic idea if your front and rear track width were the same.

https://youtu.be/P6EllJTMrZs

There’s also another way to get caster and camber by using an angle finder and measuring off the bottom of a flat part of a crossmember side to side and the brake rotor to make 90*. You do this before you install the coilovers and put your arms at ride height - same for caster by measuring along the bottom of the frame front to back and a horizontal part on the bottom of the spindle to see how far it is away from 0 (haven’t done this on a stock 2nd gen spindle so I’m not sure if there’s an easy part to use). Again these last methods must be done with the coilovers removed and the arms / spindle at a desired ride height.

 

It is pretty common If the shop rips the old stuff off without marking the cam bolts. I always mark the cam bolts and leave the jam nuts on the tie rods in the same location they were in on the old suspension. When you’re done the alignment won’t be perfect, but it’ll be good enough to get you by a day or two before getting to the alignment shop. If you just rip everything of the truck and try to rough align the truck from scratch, you’ll end up spending a couple hours just to get similar results.

 

Happy long travels you woops munchers! Glad to have found this edge of the Toyotaverse.

 

Hey, I got a quick question for anyone who might have experience with boxing their frames...basically I’m waiting for a spring under to be done to my truck and had the guy box and plate the rear of the frame with the trail gear kits beforehand. It’s been sitting outside like this for a month now and I’m thinking it’s not looking right in terms of water/rust. I forgot to grab pics of the plates on the other side but they’re welded the same. Any comments on the photos are welcome, thanks!

 

That’s one way to expedite frame rust

 

My job title is “Structural Steel Painter” so this certainly puckered me up when I saw it but I’m not a welder so I’m trying to make sure it’s indeed fuckered up before I go and start raising hell

 

They need to finish welding the plates completely, clean the rust and paint to prevent rust from spreading. Also need to add a X brace since the tire carrier appears to be removed

 

We’re in the same boat then lol I’m a powder coater and I just picture flaking rust in there

 

Sitting outside like that for a month I’m tripping out thinking about the new rust that’s trapped in there now...

 

The rust on the outside the plates wouldn't worry me. Remove the surface rust and paint it. I'd be concerned about the rust on the inside of the frame channel.

 

I mean it’s less than half way stitched. If you wanted to complain you could have them cut the plates out, repaint the inside, then clean and re-weld the plates in. But honestly I wouldn’t be too too worried. Anytime you grind paint to weld material on there’s gonna be some hidden areas that can’t get painted. Just need to do the best to cover up, paint and seal things off where you can.