Wheels not lining up?

yikes!

Ok so please take a look at (if you haven't already):

https://youtu.be/--HcOQlv03U

He's doing both inner and outer and you are tackling outer I believe. Be safe, use jack stands and be familiar with the process as much as possible before starting. Also, secure your steering wheel and try not to let it turn. Count the number of turns as you remove the outer tie rod. Shoot for the same amount of turns putting the new one on. Not always possible but good to try. No matter what, be sure to get an alignment done following the work on the suspension as soon as possible.

 

For what it is worth any time a cotter pins is removed I put a new one in!

Sadly some Men are still the bare foot and pregnant type!! Are you being taken advantage of or ignored ??

From the quality of some of the work I gotta wonder or just really bad luck?

 

I picked up both inner & outer seeing's how they've never been done. I did watch a different one I found online, which I then ran into on a TW thread regarding what brand tie rods was the preferred, etc. In fact I believe it was you who posted it. I'll check out this one as well. He came in handy for the belts. I like that he went over all the stuff that could go wrong or he had go wrong.... Maybe he covers the stuck cotter pin.... Thank you

 

It's worth a lot.
Whether it's one or the other, the irony is that these are the types of experiences that lead me to, A. Do it myself or, if I don't have the wherewithal to do A., then B. get educated & maybe end up going back & calling them on it, but certainly to let the next one know in some way that I know what the deal is. For instance, saying I'd like them to put on a new cotter pin. & the irony? - these barefoot & pregnant types whine about us "independent" women, yet take no responsibility for possibly helping us to become more empowered.
I am a sunnyside up type & although I certainly am not pleased when junk like this happens, it's more because I think of others who may not know to look further or keep going back & shelling out money. In a weird way, when all's said & done, I am grateful this got me to realize I need to learn about alignments & now to the tie rods through troubleshooting on here. That body mount fiasco is what got me to become more proactive or at least want to be. Problem is I have to catch up on all the reactives before I can get there. & It's one thing when someone, a mechanic, tells you you need this done or that done. It's another when I have to crawl under there & start poking around with the suggested guidance on here. I learn more that way.

Oh, & the stories I could tell of the different reactions & comments I get. One of my lines when it's conveyed that I must just be picking up parts so someone else (male) can then replace on my truck is, "Nope. I'm doing it myself cuz I want it done right."

 

In the other video the guy gives the tip of having the key turned in the ignition so there is the ability to move the wheels for access/angle purposes. What's the drawback?

 

Honestly, you'll need the alignment regardless so doesn't matter. When I did mine it was way off. Just follow along tim's vid, the lowrange offroad vid is good as well (I actually used it as a reference when I did mine). The only aspect of it I did not agree with is hammering with a mini sledge to break free the tie rod (use a puller instead).

https://youtu.be/AVQHgcXEhpE

 

Loanered a puller from O'Reiley's. I was referring to you putting to secure the steering wheel. The Low Range vid has to actually keep the key in the ignition so you can turn the wheels (steering wheel). I had it this way today & am wondering why you stated not to. Is it a potential hazard? Safety first of course.... Well, I try anyway.... My radar is lacking a bit in that area, hence the question.... Always, & I don't use that word very often, so I mean always forgetting the safety glasses until the near miss with a piece of rust or whatnot....

 

If I recall correctly and I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong - the reason why you actually want to secure the wheel is so it does not spin. Last thing you want is to damage the clock spring. Think of it this way - with everything connected, you turn your steering wheel so many turns to the left (or right) and it stops at a certain point. Well, without the tie rods its going to keep turning which is where you damage the clock spring. The reason why he mentions in the vid to keep it unlocked is so you can turn the wheel to help get it into position to break the outer tie rod free.

I honestly don't remember - may have been with some other front suspension repair/component change. Again, just follow the video(s).

Sorry cant be of more help there...

 

No need to apologize. I appreciate the advice. Every bit....

 

If I remember right you went the steering wheel unlocked so you can turn the wheel to lengthen the steering shaft on the side that you're doing the inner tie rod on, as long as the front end is jacked up with the tires removed it won't be dangerous to turn the steering wheel.

 

I like the freedom of movement with the steering wheel unlocked.

As long as only one side is disconnected at a time you should have no problems.

Besides if both sides are disconnected your doing some major work .

The rack can only move so far now if the steering shaft is disconnected then the wheel could rotate with no limits in theory

 

Good attitude but don`t be afraid to ask for help .

Like most all the skilled trades people in it more for the $$$ now then love of the craft.

What makes it so hard to find a shop you can trust .

Have you managed to source a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your truck ??

It really gives some great trouble shooting advice although it skips the simple things with the idea you are a somewhat skilled tech .

 

Took some doing, but I won!

My pipe wrench was too wide, so managed to hunt down (borrow from a neighbor) a big crescent wrench. Got the wrong size extractor loaner, so hoofed it to O'Reilley's (only 1/4 mile or so) for a bigger one. It was almost to big in that it was hard to find a place for it to sit where it was not ramming up against the rusty ol' brake shield, which with each turn was pushing against the rotor. Finally managed to get it to just fit by turning the wheel just right. Seems like it took the whole day, however there was the million trips in to get a tool or implement (there are many a kitchen item that have "mysteriously disappeared over the years). Then I chatted it up with the neighbors & kept checking the videos for this that. Going to attempt the inner tomorrow. I got a loaner extractor for that one as well. Hopefully the correct one cuz stores are closed.
Thank you all!

 

A friend who sold his '01 gave me his Haynes. I find it helpful at times, frustrating at other times. The indexes are not always conducive to a quick look up. & yes, I love it when I find something easily & then it states to "first remove the entire top of the motor" without explaining how to (exaggerating a bit of course). However, between the manual, the internet & last, but certainly not least, TW, the bases are covered....

 

The factory service manual makes the Haynes look like the quick reference it is.

Best of Luck with your project today

 

Finished up today. The steering wheel is at 2:00 when going straight. That castle nut thing was weird. The video has it torqued to 67. Course it did not line up. & cuz you're not supposed to back it off, by the time I got it to finish that "pinch", I was up to 85? Is that typical?

 

Sorry I haven’t read through all the posts so if someone said it already my bad lol but is it possible that your wheels are just unbalanced? I had some old cheap chinese tires on my truck when I first bought it and even with an alignment and a fresh re-balance it still would vibrate at certain speeds

 

That should be fine. The TRE nut and threads can handle it.

 

It's fine. I had to torque mine down more to get the cotter pin to line up too. In the LROR video they even mention that you can tighten it down more to line it up if necessary.

 

They very well may need to be balanced, but as I just found out through changing them out, the tie rods were in rough shape.... Now for a much needed alignment & balancing....