Help wiring Dual USB Port Charger

Hey I just bought a

$20 Cllena Dual USB Port Charger Socket Quick Charge 3.0 & 2.4A for Toyota

Dual USB Port Charger I'm installing it in the center of my my truck next to the Qi charging toggle. I removed the usb/aux input and I'm putting this there. It has an inline fuse. What's the best way to wire it? I was thinking an add-a-circuit fuse tap but I'm not sure what amp fuse I need for the usb port or what fuse to tap into. I don't want constant on since it has Leds.

 

Splice positive and negative to the cig lighter right next to it

 

What's the rating on the charger. I'd run a dedicated line and NOT recommend splicing into existing wiring as it was sized based on stock current draw conditions

 

well quick charge 3.0 only pulls 2A, and I’m assuming only one of those outlets is QC3.0, but we’ll play it safe and say they both are. So that’s 4A max.

The cig lighter is fused for 15 amps, so you would need to run 3+ of these chargers at full power before there were problems.

That’s why you tap into cig lighters. They’re made to have stuff plugged into them. No difference between a 2 port usb outlet plugged in vs spliced in.

 

The fuse is typically rated for fault current based on wire size, not continuous current draw. Last I checked toyota normally runs 22 gauge wire to everything those cheap bastards LOL, maybe 3 strands per wire. If I were adding anything I would not draw anything more than rated from stock and run my own line, but that's only my humble internet opinion.

 

Ok, we’ll even stick with “rated” current on outlet cover of 120w (10A @ 12v)



So we can still use 2-3 of those chargers (with all USB ports in use) before getting near the fused rating. And my ‘17 has 18awg to both cig lighters

But that’s just my humble MECP certified Mobile Electronics Installer opinion.
Running dedicated power for a USB plug is way overkill. That’s saying you don’t trust the cig outlet enough to charge your phone with it

 

I was thinking of tapping into the cigarette lighter but I have the roav viva plug into there plus didn't want to overload it if I was charging 2 phones at the same time. I already have the wire from the usb charger running to my fuse panel and the add-a-circuit ready, just deciding what amp fuse to use. The add-a-circuit wire is 16awg and the usb charger wire is 20awg

 

Yep at 18 awg I would just run my own. I run and design power plants and distribution systems for a living so maybe I build things bigger than needed but I'd rather overkill a design than kill a person.

 

I went ahead and just used an add-a-circuit with a 10 amp fuse. I plugged it into the ECUACC fuse input

 

I added dual 2.4 AMP usb plug in the dash next to empty slot by ECT switch and a dual USB and a 12v outlet in back of the rear console for rear seat folks. They are hardwired though a relay mounted under the hood. The relay comes on when the ignition does so the plugs are only live while the car is on. IN the pick you can see the relay above the added fuse block under the hood, which I put on a 100 amp breaker. I also added a 12v in the bed of the truck. I went with 12 gauge in the cab and a 10 gauge to the bed as I may tee off it for a few other things. Prior to adding the fuse block I just had the relay mounted to the side of the inner fender where the fuse block attached now. They make some pretty fancy mounts for fuse panels, but I had an old piece of sheet metal lying around, and unfortunately at the time only a can of tan spray paint. If you think you will ever go beyond just extra outlets (lights etc) I would strongly recommend putting an independent fuse panel under the hood

 

I realize this is an old post, but... I just bought the same part and want to run the wire to the fuse box (will find a ground somewhere near that area as well).

Not really an electrical guy so, what’s the purpose of the “in-line fuse”? If I just want to run the wire to the fuse box with a tap-a-fuse device, do I have to remove the in-line one (and reconnect the wire, that is), or can I just leave that there?

 

The tap a fuse things is the same thing as a fuse somewhere else in the line. It is there in case something shorts out. I would be nervous about using a fuse tap if you running too much amperage. A USB port might work but I am not sure how much power you would want to run. You could just go straight to battery as well instead of tapping a fuse just make sure your line is fused somewhere

 

Thank you! I could be wrong, but I think this is basically just shy of 5amps, so I’m not too worried about it being too high (famous last words).

What is not clear to me is... can I install it and keep the in line there or will it explode if it has 2 fuses in it?

 

If you use an add a fuse then you do not need an additional in line fuse. Honestly does not matter if there are two fuses though. It is just overkill. They do not interact with each other. Probably less than 5 amps draw. The 5 amps is at 5 volts for USB (2.4 amps x 2), so probably about 2 amps for 12 volts coming in.

 

thanks for the response, mate!

Mine hasn’t arrive yet so I’m not sure how this exactly works hence the dumb questions... My mind was revolving around questions such as “is this as simple as just removing the in line fuse?” Or “can it just have to fuses and be ok?” Or “if I remove the in line fuse, will I need to crimp and reconnect the cable without the fuse compartment, or will it still be a connection?”.

As I mentioned, really not an electrical guy at all. The closest I have done to this was install my fog lights, but there was no talk about “in line fuse” on that project, haha