What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Just ordered some Hikari LED bulbs. They are 40% off on Amazon right now.

HIKARI Ultra LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit -H11(H8,H9), Prime LED 12000lm 6K Cool White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077BT6M6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_DekcEbXY6W38P

 

Do you need just the bulbs or all the other stuff they recommend ? Like the anti flicker wires?

 

According to the description of the ballasts you're referring to: "2005+dodge,ram, ford f-150,chevy,kia and jeep may requires these h11 resistors in order to aviod flicker problem."

One has to love that Hikari grammar. For what it's worth, I installed these in a different size on my CR-V without the ballast (direct to the factory harness) with no issues.

 

lookin good

Bought from same place.

Started with 4..

But went with 3..

 

Thanks. I wanted Ohio state because of the Joe burrow connection. But we probably match up better against Clemson. They won a he'll of a game last night.

 

The way I understood it, the additional wires weren't needed maybe @crashnburn80 can clarify.

 

Ya. I may even plain them down so they are flush with the lip so they are sitting flat in the full perimeter

 

Flickering is caused by pulse width modulation (pwm), an energy saving technique of not delivering constant power to halogens, instead delivering rapid pulses of power. The halogen won’t go out between power pulses, but an LED will, which will cause the LED to flicker.

There are also CANBUS systems that will detect low power draw and throw an bulb out error. Since LEDs use less power than halogens they cause bulb out errors on CANBUS vehicles. The fix is to add resisters to draw extra power which get hot to consume it, so the vehicle sees the power consumption it expects.

The Tacoma does not use PWM or CANBUS, those extra add-ones will provide no benefit. The Tacoma doesn’t need anything more than just the LEDs themselves for headlights.

 

Thanks

 

Yea it was a good game. One of the best playoff games back and forth. One thing is for sure, a Tiger will be the champion.

 

They aren’t anymore than the OEM but they don’t hurt the old knees as much when you’re crawling around.

I will say I think they scratch easier than OEM though. I was moving a tool chest I bought and scratched/gouged the shit out of it. Well, it’s meant to be used, so I’m fine with it.

 

The dimension on a few 2x8's I have laying around in closer to 7 1/4 than 7 1/2"

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=2x8+nominal+dimensions

The notches in the polymer bed are not exactly square but at the base seem to be just a hair under 7 1/4 eyeballing with a tape measure pinches a 2x8 tight.

 

That's awesome! Where did you get it?

 

It's a 3d printed kit you have to build. From MFab on Instagram or Facebook.

 

I ended up using 2x6’s because I had some leftover from a project, but built a frame so the back end of the sheets don’t flex

 

Not today, but got the Spidertrax 1-1/4" wheel spacers installed....


On Pro wheels and stock tire size...

 

Guess it's only 6000k....prefer 5000k but damn these is tempting

 

What's the mm on those?

 

I ordered some black stainless steel license plate screws in China to compliment my new truck.

Needless to say I got my money back.
I am now looking for alternatives.

 

Pardon my ignorance, what does mm mean?