Truck has distinct smell going uphill

There's a part of my commute where I have to drive uphill for a few miles and my truck usually maxes out at 50-55 mph at some parts.

Whenever I'm pushing it at those higher speeds going uphill, there's a really distinct smell. I think farts would be the best way to describe it but it's not 100% accurate. Is there anything that needs to be replaced on my truck? I only smell it going uphill and I'm not getting any check engine lights.

 

Catalytic converters.

 

^ this. If you aren't getting a po420 code (catylist efficiency low) code then don't worry about it. It probably means you need to drive it harder. Take it to redline every now and then

 

Ok that's what I figured. I have a couple questions though.

I have a 2000 Tacoma 2.7L PreRunner from California. Would my truck have one catalytic converter or two?

And are there any part recommendations for replacing this? Would not replacing the cat as soon as possible cause any issues or should I just get it replaced soon anyways.

 

There should be 2...
@eon_blue may be able to chime in more as has had to deal with replacing his here in California

 

Does that code only show if the check engine light is on or should I be checking for codes regardless? What does driving it harder do?

 

Only if you get the dreaded CEL light will the the code come up.

 

You'll get an orange check engine light with that code. Driving it harder just keeps the carbon deposits from building up. They can build up in the combustion chamber, and in the catalytic converter, keeping it from working as efficiently as it should.

 

I know for sure the 01+ Tacomas have 2 because they were all built to CA emissions standards after 2000. But a 2000 Tacoma I'm not sure...would be easy to check though, they are easily visible when you look underneath. One under the passenger seat and the rear one is closer to the back of the cab

I had a p0420 code that came and went for months, finally it started staying on longer and I noticed the truck not performing quite as well. Would usually come on after offroading or climbing steep grades.

Eventually figured out it was my front cat that was bad...usually the front is the first to go. I went ahead and replaced both to be safe because I had a smog test coming up.

Toyota wanted close to $3k for 2 new OEM cats installed and I politely said 'fuck no' to that. In CA you have to have CARB certified cats so my aftermarket options were limited, but Magnaflow makes them for our trucks. Got both installed for $600 at a local exhaust shop. That was almost 2 and a half years ago and they're still going strong. Just passed emissions again with them last month.

OEM Toyota cats are by far the best and longest lasting ones you can buy but they are very expensive. If going aftermarket, go with Magnaflow. Every one I talked to about it told me they're the only ones that make a halfway decent aftermarket catalytic converter. Really cheap cats will die on you quick.

 

Work out the clutch on a smaller hill and rule it out.

 

If your smelling things in the cab when your the only vehicle in sight I would look for missing grommets or holes in the firewall .

Leaky exhaust because if your moving your exhaust system is moving your exhaust out from under your vehicle.

If your in traffic most likely it is from other vehicles I want to say Hydrogen Sulfide not sure if that is correct

 

Manual or auto trans? I can smell hot gear oil when I work mine hard but I believe its normal as nothing has grenaded on me yet lol

 

In June of this year after a 150-mile run on the interstate, I started smelling something like a cow pasture, or transmission oil, or slightly rotten eggs, after stopping for the day and then starting up.

The smell came from outside. With the windows rolled up I couldn't smell a thing, but if I cracked a window I could smell it immediately at any speed. When I stopped, so did the smell. Vents opened or closed, didn't make any difference.

Stopped to check the underside of the truck - completely dry. No oil leak. Also, couldn't smell anything when the truck was stopped.

Problem continued thru the summer. Since then I've been driving around town and haven't smelled anything. Wouldn't be surprised if the smell returns after the next interstate run if I partially roll down a window.

Go figger...

 

That along with cheap Gas will give you that rotten egg smell or sulfur smell. only other thing is stop eating clam chowder and everything will be OK....

 

I think farts would be the best way to describe it but it's not 100% accurate. [/QUOTE]

What do you eat for breakfast ?

 

What is the difference between CARB and Federal cats - are the latter less restrictive to flow? How does the engine computer know which one you have installed?

 

Computer doesn’t know what cat is installed.

The state checks, not the ECM.

 

A lot of the important notes here has been covered..

Go OE for cats. Your car will thank you. If you cannot front that money for them, though, go Magnaflow. They are the only others built decently worth a damn, as the others of the aftermarket lineup are PURE garbage.

When driving, make sure you get into the upper RPM range or give it a nice redline every once in a while. I have seen many cat converters from OE die early.deaths because of folks (usually older women) pussy footing their cars all around town, everyday for 140,000 miles. I have seen cars driven pedal heavy last for well over 250,000 and die simply due to the fact that 14.7 air fuel ratio was not being acheived due to poor oxygen sensor activity, malmaintained secondary ignition system, vacuum leaks or just poor maintenance in general.

There is no difference between CARB and federal catalytic converter a of the aftermarket variety. The ones which have CARB numbers stamped on them specifically for your truck or car fits and works because they paid California to get that fancy number stamped on it. In short it's a "how much money can California get it's hands on as part of the smog program" business to them. It's not that the federal cats won't NOT fit, they will just fail smog due to the lack of the CARB number.

I hope this helps.

 

They basically look up number imprinted on the converter and see if it's CARB or not...as for any actual difference I doubt there is one. Like mentioned above CARB is mainly just a moneygrab tactic. Companies have to pay out the whazoo to get CARB certification and sell products in CA and it really has nothing to do with emissions. But that's another topic that's probably bordering on not being allowed on here.

I do know that cheaper cats don't come with nearly as much material in them that the OEM ones have, hence why they're so cheap. The CA spec cats have to meet a certain minimum requirement for that material, but that's not what ultimately makes them CA legal. Paying for CARB is

 

I've had that happen, too. Shifter usually gets pretty hot when that happens.