What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I missed this but Yes its an auto. I was able to reset the diff and try again. I found out you need to leave the rear mount stud partially in its position and then tilt it and wiggle it out otherwise there was no chance.

from the looks of it the oil pan should be the main culprit. The miles have not been kind to this poor truck but I peeked behind the oil shield and the bottom end all looks in good shape for 220k

 

Make new brackets. Mine are 3/8 flat bar, don't need them that beefy but that's all I had at the moment and why not overbuild!

 

Made mine with 1/2 flat bar... lol

 

I used 3" angle straight off the frame for mine. Quarter inch thick.

 

Been eyeing that bumper for some time now. Love the wrap around design. They don't offer it without the cutouts for the lights anymore - at least not according to the site.
https://www.relentlessfabrication.c...ts/96-04-tacoma-wrap-around-rear-plate-bumper

 

I think I did some soldering to get whatever bulbs I have in. I haven't had an issue with them. Can't say the same for the dash lights...

 

The NEOx work. No issues at all. Just pulled up my old order to confirm.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/1002/

For instrument cluster, went with these - again, no issues. Plug and play.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-miniature-wedge-retrofit-95-lumens/3305/919/

Sadly, they are slightly off in appearance. That difference between 6500k & 6600K is noticeable.

 

Appreciate the photos

 

Lots more in my build thread

 

Any suggestions on where to get a rear wheel bearing ‘kit’? For a ABS housing, but not equipped with ABS. Marlin crawler and low range both have kits, but low range its twice as much as marlin (for the ABS kit). Both appear to have OEM bearings, but low range list the inner seal as ‘Trail safe Toyota inner seal’.

 

I got the Low Range kit when I did mine. The "Trail Safe" seal is just a fancier seal that is supposedly less likely to start leaking or fail. Pick your poison, they both work fine.

 

I have all the OEM parts for a bearing/seal/spacer replacement job for an ABS axle, just got rid of my stock rear axle so no need for them. Let me know if you’re interested.

 

I spent $950 to have my timing belt done and the mechanic did a shit job. So I’ve been collecting parts and tools to redo it myself as I don’t trust taking it back and letting him touch it again and I don’t feel like hassling with him as it’s been 6 months since he did it.

Hopefully it goes as smooth as yours!

 

You can do it man. We have great videos showing all the tools and steps and parts and difficult scenarios, etc. I definitely happy to see you want to handle it yourself. Too many bums getting paid good money and they do bum work. It's ridiculous. This way you'll know exactly what's going on and won't be at some bum's mercy

 

For sure, I’m not paying anyone anymore to work on my vehicle unless I know for a fact they are a reputable shop.

I replaced my clutch w few years ago with my stepdads help. So I’m pretty confident I can do this with the right tools and @Timmah! super helpful videos.

I should have just replace it myself the first time. Only reason I had the mechanic do it is because he had done some work for my brother and seemed to do a good job so I just figured I’d pay someone so I could have it done quicker. As it’s my daily.

 

Wheel bearings are different from 95-00 and 01-04.

 

Is there a difference in the seal for abs housing vs non-abs housing? I can’t recall from when I did it a few years ago. I know the non-abs housing sits on the outside where as the abs housing is in set in the axle.

 

Didn’t notice that he had a 99.
I thought the bearing was a different style but they’re interchangeable?

 

Not interchangeable. The axle shafts and matching inner races on the bearings are different.

 

I think the seal is the same, but I've not messed with a non-abs housing.

I would double check some part numbers to make sure.