Got defeated by an oil change

Welp I failed at life. Tried to change my oil tonight. Drained the oil but the filter was just a plain bitch to get off. It's the aluminum one and the dealer must have torqued the fuck out of it where it was to the point I thought I might damage the housing trying to loosen it.

Also shit was messy as fuck (have the pro skid plate so I wasn't about to drop that).

Been a while since I changed my own oil and I thought I was a decent wrench until now (rebuilt top ends of all my 2 strokes etc). Guess it's time to turn in the man card lol

Literally every single toyota truck I owned was easy af to change the oil (1st gen, 2nd gen, 22re) but wtf and don't get me started on the dipstick

 

Just need the proper tools: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oil-change-with-stuck-filter.640953/#post-22141867

Should be a plastic filter cap, not aluminum? Aluminum on aluminum can gall if the threads were dry.

 

Stop eating all that avocado toast

 

Low T

 

That's the cap I used. I didn't use a breaker bar though

 

My Tacoma is the first ride I've ever owned that I let someone else change the oil.

Had the 10K change done a couple months ago at the dealer, took about 45 minutes.

With the long drive train warranty I figure fuck it, I'll let them change it. If something happens down the road, they cant give me shit about using the wrong oil or something.

 

It's good for omega 3 and other essential fatty acids

 

And you posted this because you knew we would console you and be super supportive and understanding.

 

Just get salmon with your steak.

 

I'm more of an avocado english muffin man myself

 

I actually hate avocado but I like guacamole go figure. At least I still like my steak medium rare like any self respecting man should

 

Another $10 then...
or $22 for the ratcheting version:

 

It's definitely not as quick and easy as the canister filter on the second gen. Once you do it a few times, you'll get used to the extra steps.

 

Yeah just go ahead and turn in that man card.

No, but in all seriousness, on those stupid aluminum or plastic element style filters that Toyota has now been so generous to switch to which seem to self torque past the point of tightness, I always do myself a favor and switch to a 1/2" 2.5 foot rachet and use a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer adapter to adapt to the filter housing tool that I use to remove them. They are usually a bitch to get off, but I always break them loose.

 

^^ I got one of those bitches - I'll sell it to you for cheap plus shipping. DM me if you want a deal. It's not nearly as good as the one sold at the dealer which is an oil filter canister wrench tool. It is like an open end hex head wrench that fit over and around the canister and not a cap. 1/2 " drive. Won't break the canister or damage it. Fool proof. Proper tools make this an easy mess free maintenance item. Then get the Fumoto Valve 103N and install. No more mess or wasted cash.


Do a search for this > CTA-1726-Toyota-Lexus-Oil-Filter-Wrench

 

Check the clip on the oil filter.

I always remove the skid plate, sucks but easier for me to get around.
Sorry for the experience you had. It’s messy, not ideal to work with but overall better piece of mind for me at least I do it myself and save $50-60+ to do it yourself. Worth it for me and lets me check everything else and be aware with no to minimal surprises. For every 10k miles or once a year to do, not that bad in the bigger picture

 

So on the filter do you still use the "hand tight" method or are you supposed to torque it to spec?

 

hand tight or for some “royal with cheese”

 

Neither. Tighten until the cap flange touches the filter housing then stop. Because of the seal drag, the cap will be tight the whole 5 turns up. You'll need a ratchet.

 

drain plug is 9 ftlb, filter canister is 18 ftlb, oil pan is 27 ftlb ==torque. yes conventional direction on tight and loose. Buy the OEM filters - the proper seal locations and torques are on the box. Buy 4 or more and they are cheaper.

Note - someone will say the oil pan bolt is 30 ftlb torque - fair enough - but you DON"T want to over torque it.