Frame rust recall

They'll make you jump through hoops just to shut the door in your face, that's Toyota for ya. Anyway they can, to minimize the $$$ they've been hemorrhaging because of rust. Im waiting for the t4r to get included back to 2003/2004.

 

Finally got my frame-rot inspection letter from Toyota. My frame is in relatively good condition since I painted it immediately upon purchase and have cleaned and painted it another two times afterwards. Fluid filmed it last year and that stuff really works well! Aside from the X-member above the spare tire, which looks questionable from underneath, my frame is still in ideal condition for a 9 year old vehicle.

Whoever ends up getting my truck after trade in is going to get a near perfect copy of a 2011 Tacoma. Its in 97% good cosmetic condition only some front rock chips, no drivetrain mechanical problems, and perfect engine condition and perfect transmission condition (aside from the minor fluid cooler line leak). And if this frame rots through, the next owner will get a free frame and LCAs.

 

Still waiting for the call saying my frame has arrived. Should be soon, I was told 2-3 weeks a couple of weeks ago.

Which brings up a question, what exactly is included with the new frame replacement? I've yet to meet with the SM to discuss details. My service writer did tell me on the phone, all the brake lines, except the one over the rear axle, would be new. Also any parts I wanted replaced (removed during frame swap) would be labor free. I suppose it varies dealer to dealer (it really shouldn't), but what's actually the low-down on what to expect. Appreciate anyone who's had a frame replaced, please chime in with your experience & what to expect.

 

Yes, your experience will vary dealer to dealer. Mine took 3 1/2 weeks to do the swap. They wanted $200 additional labor to install the new front brake rotors and pads I provided. I declined. They wanted $300 to install a new p/s rack which I also declined. I bought an Energy Suspension full cab mount kit. The tech had no interest in installing it and said he'd have to lmk what the additional labor would be so I told him not to bother. This would have saved him time not having to even remove the rusty old cab mounts from the old frame and had nice clean new stuff to just put on. Wtf? I have an a/t, and had replaced the lower of the two trans lines that run along the passenger side of the engine. They wanted $60 labor to install the new upper one I provided (and had bought there) even with the engine out in front of him. Something to be aware of with the engine - some dealer techs have a brace which the engine gets chained to and it stays in the cab, some dealers lift the cab off, then lift the engine off of the frame separately. So should you want front of the engine stuff done while the truck is there, i.e. water pump, pulleys, the $ will depend on if the engine is out or not. I was going to do a water pump to be proactive while the engine was out, but with my dealer wanting full labor cost for everything I didn't even bother asking. Oh and be prepared to be asked for $3400 for an entire new new exhaust system because they're gonna tell you yours is leaking. On the positive side, and much to my surprise, they, at my request, put my old leaf springs (which are tsb and have a progressive all installed) back in place and threw a brand new pair of leaf springs and box of shackles and hardware in the bed for me. I was not looking forward to bringing my old set home, removing the aal, then getting under the truck and reinstalling it on a new set. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the input. So far, this dealer seems on the up & up, even though I'm not a known customer. There are some pro-active things I've considered. Front shocks for sure, I did the rears a while back. The truck's 12yrs old w/165K. Belts, hoses, water pump, the updated water pipe (4cyl). Though it's not an issue, I've even considered a clutch kit just because what better time. I realize I'd be in for parts & labor on tasks not pertaining to the actual frame swap. I'll see what they quote.
Any other's experiences and input is welcomed and greatly appreciated!

 

I’d also suggest if you have a good experience with the service manager and your swap to stop and tell the sales manger you’ll be back based on the service experience. These service departments that are taking care of us need rewarded and the rest of the organization needs to know that we’ll make our purchasing decisions based on how they treat us now.

 

I would advise you to go over the truck thoroughly when you pick it up BEFORE you sign anything.On mine the Bed was crooked,the license plate lights did not work and they over tightened the front lug nuts so much that the rotor was warped.I spent several months tracking down new noises.I replaced the cab mount bushings.The dealer had bent two.I still had a noise that was driving me insane.I finally found it!..The tech installed the wheel well liner on the outside of the mud flap on the passenger side.It would hit when turning...After everything was sorted out it is good to go.

 

I see you're in NJ like myself. Who did you use? I went to Towne in Ledgewood and was not happy with them. They left my headlights and foglights disconnected, and wired my cap dome light into my reverse lights. Every wire harness clip under the bed was broken. The harness was dangling everywhere. I spent almost an hour straightening it out and zip tying it back in place. These clips should be pennies. Why not just replace them?

 

Shore Toyota in Mays Landing

 

What @roadking1 said. Take a good look around it when they bring it to you for pickup for anything not right or out of alignment. If it looks ok and seems good to you, do a lap in the lot to listen for any noises, and have them addressed before you leave with the truck. If it's not right, don't accept it. I had to battle my dealer to resolve a cylinder misfire and a few other issues that stemmed from the frame swap. It took almost another week after they initially said they were done to fix it correctly.

 

Thanks & good point. Actually my plan is to do this before & after the frame swap, with the SR or SM. Best we're all on the same page from the git-go. The truck has no issues, mechanically or otherwise. Save a few minor dings from normal wear & tear of a 12yr old vehicle, it's pretty damn clean. Runs right, drives right, & looks right. Panel fit & alignment is on the money too. I just want it documented as such, so when I get it back there's no song & dance to contend with. I don't expect problems, just want to cover all the bases.

 

After years of fighting with dealerships, my 2008 is getting frame replacement. Its been in since Thanksgiving and they approved it the end of the week after Thanksgiving. I have a Sienna rental from them. I haven't heard anything from them since they approved it. My guess is the frame isn't here yet.

 

I live in Colorado, pretty sure its not on the "salt heavy" state list. We get snow, we use salt. They replaced my frame. Thats ridiculous if they aren't covering it.

 

Toyota just sent me additional warranty paperwork to keep with my owner's manual of my 2017 Tacoma SR5. They are extending the rust warranty for 2011 to 2017 Tacoma trucks?? Did they solve the problem.. or will my 2017 have this problem??

 

It appears Toyota has decided to gamble with just extending the frame warranties. Instead of getting to the root of the problem by delving into the metallurgy, design, & corrosion resistance which obviously needs addressed. Cheaper to keep her, as they say...

I'm still waiting on my frame btw...

 

My cousin was a master "tool & die" maker for DANA corp. He worked on the dies that punched out the parts for my 2002 Tundra's frame. Claimed Toyota spec.ed steel that was "high-strength" how it's prone to corrosion?? Some members have mentioned they did not prep and threat welds properly??

You would think they would try to solve the problem??? Might just have to coat my frame with fluid film every Fall.

 

You would think it’d be cheaper in the long term to just fix the specs for frames going forward, than to just keep replacing frames year after year.

Unless there’s some huge write off deduction they’re taking for this (ongoing) loss.

 

That's exactly what I plan to do when my new frame is installed.

 

I think the salt and brine they use on the roads now is a lot more corrosive and the frames and brake lines from every manufacturer are rotting out way too fast. I'm not sure they know what to do yet to stop it. They really just want you to trade in your older truck for a new $$$ truck.

 

Agree. And they seem to use a lot more salt than they used to. Used to be, when there was no ice, just a couple inches of powdery snow, they’d leave it alone and you’d just drive over the snow with caution and a little slower than usual. But since the driving public’s gotten a lot dumber, nobody seems to adjust their driving for changing conditions and the State is forced to attempt to destroy every snowflake that lands.