Show off your aux fuse panels.

I ran mine off a separate breaker. Tapped into the negative on the 100amp breaker and squeezed it into a small space on the panel.

 

My dual compressor came with an inline fuse for each compressor, and I wired them direct to the low voltage disconnect located next to the breaker. The compressor fuses ended up under my aux fuse panel.

You can wire directly to the battery, and I believe the ARBs have a trigger wire that connects to the ignition wire, so you may only turn ON the compressor when the truck is ON. GL!

 

This.

My ARB twin is direct wired to the battery with the trigger going to the switch (SP8100).

 

RyanDCLB- Are there any post about how you did the under the hood light ? It looks real nice and like a clean job. Job well done

 

Thanks all. I’ll wire up an in line fuse right to the battery for the ARB. Ordered some custom battery cables today then it’ll be done and I’ll post some pictures. It isn’t as professional looking as some of the ones on here, but I’ll show you the before pictures and it’s a marked improvement compared to what I was running previously.

 

Installing an AUXBEAM 8-switch electronic unit. So far impressions are good. Hooked it up to function check and everything works, or turns on at least.

I somehow dont really trust the unmarked chinese 60A breaker included in the kit so that'll be the last holdup.



The supplied universal bracket nearly fit. Ended up whipping out the Bridgeport and having to clearance the slot and drop some holes

 

For someone not wanting to source components, build and install an aux panel. Are there any pre made kits or complete systems available? Or any shops in LB/OC area that build and install systems?

 

The system in my post above pretty much comes ready to bolt together on the truck. The way I’m going about it requires a little bit of install but nothing tedious.

 

I just ordered this:

https://www.auxbeam.com/catalog/product/view/id/1895/s/qp002559/category/315/

They have a $30 off promotion that ends today. Sorry I can't tell you how it will install or function, yet.

 

My battery cables came in today so I put them on and finalized everything. It doesn't look nearly as clean or professional as some of the ones on this thread, but compared to my before pictures you can see it's a huge improvement. I ran most of the wires through protective loom and then routed them behind the cowling atop the fender. You can't really see where I have my ARB single compressor mounted in the after pictures, but it is on the same Power Trays tray that can be seen in my before pictures. I don't have pictures before I installed the SDHQ battery terminals or the Odyssey battery and Rago tie down tray, but I installed them right before I did everything else on the fuse block too. The wires still look a little messy because of the ballast for my HID lights and the excess wire involved with that system. I didn't want to go cutting and shortening the wires that come from the ballast to the pigtail for the HIDs.


While I was at it I installed the Warn Power interrupt kit for my Smittybilt winch:


Ran that to a CH4x4 switch in the cab:


I mounted two relays behind the compressor:


Originally I wanted to install everything in a watertight box, but I couldn't find one that was short enough to clear the battery mounting nuts while still being long enough to fit the fuse block. I thought about doing it like this but decided against it.


My before pictures. It was a total mess. A complete rats nest of wires. It was impossible to get into the factory fuse box. I was afraid that over time something would wear through and I had so many positive wires resting directly on the negative battery terminal that it was only a matter of time before a fire started. I feel significantly better now with how it is.

 

So here’s how my install ended up.

bought an in-line audio breaker and used that instead of the supplied one.

Switch wire is run off the ACC fuse in the cab fuse panel with an add-a-circuit. Was able to fit the controller and switch wires thru the Firewall boot pretty easily.

the controller fits well right behind the shifter next to the drivers cup holder. There’s enough line in the supplied cable to run it under the door sill guard and below the seat.

Overall pretty straightforward, almost plug and play. Required for me at most some soldering to fit the power cable as the kit came universal.

 

Now that is scary looking!

 

It’s all done and everything works as intended. Wish we had more space but you gotta work with what you have:

 

Looks nice but keep an eye on those relays. With them facing up they can allow moisture to get in(they're not sealed). You can see the seam around the edge facing up.

 

Relays seem to the weak link in the system. I already had one corrode on me and need replacing after washing my engine bay. Aside from putting them in a waterproof housing what else can be done to protect them from moisture?

 

Mount them with the seam facing down and paint the seam with abs cement or use the 4-way plug connectors(again with the seam down).

 

When mine corroded I was using the 4-way plug. I have mine mounted horizontally now behind my compressor on a power tray right above the firewall grommet. I’ll try the abs cement though that’s a good idea.

 

Plasti-dip might work instead.
It's one of the better reasons for using a Bussman since its sealed and the relays inside it are as well.

 

I wonder if a silica gel pack or three might be a good idea even in an enclosed box.

 

I used a wire fish. Got 4 wires through