Drivers Side Camber Maxed out after 2" Lift

So as the title states, my camber is maxed out on my drivers side front tire. Its sitting at 1.5 positive. The alignment shop said they think its just worn parts but didn't say what parts. Also said its not something to be too concerned about. I can definitely tell because of the wheel noise on my drivers side. I read a little on this from other peoples experience but im hoping someone can tell me what it could be.

I took pictures of the eccentrics both front and rear of that wheel so if anyone could help itd be appreciated. Thanks

Front

Rear

Shop


This is my first post on here other than responses from others. any help would be appreciated.

 

That alignment guy is a freakin IDIOT!

1 1/2 degrees of camber is definitely something to worry about. Your cams are not maxed out. They are at the mid point. They “think it’s just worn parts”? If I inspect a front end, I can tell exactly what parts are worn/loose.

 

Thanks, that's what I thought too after looking at the adjustments, also thought 1.5 was a bit high. I'm omw somewhere else and if they can do it in gonna demand a refund from the first place

 

Frozen cam bolts?

 

Also, in your pic, there’s a “—“ above the caster pic. I’m gonna assume that means that they don’t even know how to check the caster.

 

Are the eccentric bolts are seize

 

Yeah it could be frozen but I think he said maxed

That's my assumption as well

I loosened it up for the lift yesterday than torqued it to spec when I was done, should be ok but idk

 

Just got off the phone with the Tech, he said (and I quote) "there is no camber adjustment on my Tacoma, not factory anyways"

The Company is Precision Tune Auto Care, Augusta GA.

 

Since the alignment tech is incompetent, I'd be concerned about their rack calibration as well. You can verify the camber reading yourself with a $20 digital level like this one:

Taytools 468266 16"es / 400 mm Digital Level Angle Finder Inclinometer w/o Magnetic Base Accurate to +/- 0.2 Degrees Large LCD Display with Backlit

https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468266-Inclinometer-Magnetic-Accurate/dp/B07H1LD7MK/ Mount it on a piece of angle stock with two screws touching flat spots on the rim. The service manual tolerance is -0.3 deg to +1.3 deg. Example:

 

I just took it to Firestone here on FT Gordon and am having them take a look, they said if they can't do it they won't even charge me. If they do it I'll be contacting the first shop and asking for a refund


Thanks for the idea though, I appreciate it. It definitely is off the road noise from the tire is awful, I hate driving it like this lol

 

Holy crap! That confirms that he’s a freakin idiot! Those 2 cams that you posted pics of are used to adjust caster and camber. Somebody needs to take a 1/2” torque wrench, beat him upside the head, rip his name badge off his uniform, and kick him in the ass in the general direction of the door.

 

1.5 deg camber shouldn't cause noise. It may be from incorrect toe setting. Toe can be checked easily with two jack stands and a fishing line, but is only convenient if your front and rear tracks are the same width (no wheel spacers): http://speed.academy/diy-wheel-alignment-how-to-guide-explained/2/

What tire pressure are you running? Try dropping below 30 psi if you haven't already.

A DIY home alignment process is good to have just because your alignment can drift after off-roading.

 

I guess it's more of I can feel it when slowing down, makes the truck shake but like very little, almost feels like I'm on mud tires now vs my regular Wrangler kevlars. I'll give that a shot after I get it back from firestone

 

Ok, I just got off the phone with Firestone, They checked it and said that both Cambers were over 1 and 1.3, but they said that the Toe on my passenger side was WAYYYYYY off and that it was pulling left because my toe on the passenger side. This should explain the wheel noise I hope. Its funny because the last company had it completely opposite. They are going to do the alignment now and it should be done shortly

Also said that my camber bolts are extremely tight. which is weird, I put them to torque spec last night after raising my Lower Control Arms

 

So, I have returned from Firestone These are my results. as you can see my Toe was WAYY off and my Wheel was also WAY OFF, and now everything is within tolerance. Problem im still having is the vibration around 35mph, and Sadly, It goes away when i turn on 4x4 meaning its my Differential. I put in the diff drop spacers when I did the lift install. Is there an easy way to fix this? Not looking forward to having to pay a bunch to fix it if i dont have to

 

Your needle bearing is probably shot and is more pronounced because of the lift. You should get the ECGS bushing to replace the needle bearing. That should resolve the vibration issue.

 

Yeah thats what im reading, How hard is it to replace? easier than doing the lift? Luckily I have access to a Lift, tools, and garage on Post so i can get under the vehicle pretty easily

Also, got off the phone with the company who botched my alignment, they will refund me. He said he is just going to submit it to the company he bought his aligner through. Also said that the company I had re do it (Firestone) is probably lying and that there are alot of dishonest people out there, seemed like he was hinting at me. Great Company!

 

It’s doable on your own if you’re mechanically inclined at all. However, you need to remove and replace the drive shaft in order to take out the needle bearing and replace it with the ECGS bearing, which can be a bit of a pain.

 

that sounds awful, anyway that this can be fixed by Toyota? Im out of warranty I think but I feel like from what im reading, this is totally their fault

 

I may just take it to ECGS since im only a couple hundred miles from them. I have a friend who lives up that way anyways, What a pain, My truck was driving fine this whole time and i put a lift on and BAM its awful