2nd gen manual transmission fix

How much was already cut on your flywheel? You’re going to be getting pretty thin without a shim after cutting the correct step back in.

 

Your time is worth money . Its not your fault this issue occurred .
When a supplier provides me with a clutch that is faulty , Its expected for the supplier to replace the parts for free and cover some of the labor to remove and replace their faulty parts .

 

I hadn’t considered that.

It’s been machined twice now. The first time (two+years ago) didn’t require much cutting. Flywheel looked pretty good. Then, this time it was cut, it probably didn’t even need it. No hot spots or anything. That clutch was only in there for 20k.

I see what you’re saying about a shim. But, with this “self-adjusting” bearing setup; Do you think that it’d really be necessary?

I’ll keep the new flywheel on hand until the trans is out again. Then, when I have both on the bench, I’ll measure things and make the decision at that point.

This flywheel is beefy as hell. But, for conversations sake; What do you suppose that the max allowable material removed should be? Say I measure and the new flywheel is 1mm thicker than the one that’s been machined. Acceptable? 2mm?

As for machining moving the clutch further away from the TO bearing... Here’s a thought: Maybe CM would send me a few shims for the bearing. I could measure things and use the appropriate shim(s) to get everything back to where it should be.

Is someone at @ClutchMasters actually following this thread?

 

Jeff, I have a spare RA60F and could make a template of the bell housing holes and cut outs as well as take other dimensions if someone had access to one of the other transmissions you have listed here in this thread and on the other thread where you posted could also do the same.

 

Well, we haven’t yet determined that the clutch is actually bad.

If I pull this thing and it turns out that the step of the flywheel is actually at the correct -.055”. Then we know that we’ve got a bad clutch.

If I measure the step and it’s at the CM erroneous -.040” spec that I’d requested. It’ll mean that the machine shop did what I’d asked and that the clutch itself is probably fine.

 

^^^
That being said, now I’m thinking that I should have another clutch on hand when I do this job, again.
If I pull this thing and determine that this clutch is bad; How much time am I going to lose waiting for a replacement? Übering back and forth to work each day and tying up a lift in the shop the whole time. Ugh.

Anyone have another performance clutch manufacturer they can suggest?

 

Why did you replace the clutch at 20k miles...?

 

It wouldn’t hold the torque with the blower making 10 psi. With more power mods coming, this had to be done.

 

What clutch u have in there now?

 

I removed an OE Toyota clutch.

 

Do you have something else installed now? I’d look at the urd stage3/3+ clutch.

 

Yeah, it would be nice to compare actually. If you have the time.

Jeff

 

The bearing is does reposition itself, but there is of course a limit. As the spring in the slave reaches the end of its travel it will apply less preload to the bearing, additionally the overall travel of the bearing has a limit as well.

All that said, the other big issue that can happen after taking too much off the flywheel (with or without shim) is that the clearance between the clutch disc and damper springs can sometimes get too close or contact the flywheel bolts. No shifting occurs, haha.

Just took a look at the schematic though and there's a ton of room in there. Doubt you'll have that specific trouble.

Jeff

 

I installed the CM FX400 on December 23rd. That’s is the clutch I’m having trouble with currently.

 

seems most the issues with the TOB has been with CMs own clutches

 

Man! I’m starting to second guess this CM kit for fitment. You would think these T/O bearing kits are adjustable for multiple steps pertaining to the flywheel. Let alone installing a brand new flywheel. @BillDaCat8 i think SPEC makes a great clutch kit.

So from what I read either the CM clutch is bad or the .40 resurface is too much? What am I missing here

 

The step has everything to do with the clutch and pressure plate and nothing to so with the bearing.

 

To be clear...there has been nothing wrong identified with the CM clutch. Personally, I went with a URD stage 2 clutch and new heavy flywheel. The CM hydro bearing works with OEM and OEM replacement parts. If you get a flywheel resurfaced to non-OEM specs...it may not operate correctly

 

When you resurface the flywheel doesn’t it essentially move the clutch assembly further away from the throw out bearing?

More than anything, it would be nice to have good intel specs on proper distance between the fingers and CM bearing and proper step height for the flywheel. I haven’t gotten my CM order yet so forgive me if they already state it. Another would be how far the CM bearing travels for optimal distance.

 

I can tell you that a brand new flywheel’s step is machined to somewhere between .055” and .058” negative step. Meaning that the outer ring of the flywheel, the area that the pressure plate bolts to, is higher than the friction surface.

I did already sort of preach to CM that that measurement should definitely be included with every clutch kit that they sell. For it’s specific application obviously.