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Loud sputter, misfires codes, RIP??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ryang93, Dec 30, 2019.

  1. Dec 30, 2019 at 3:01 PM
    #1
    ryang93

    ryang93 [OP] Member

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    About a year ago I bought my 2008 Tacoma 4.0L with 143,000km, admittedly she was a little rusty and seemed a tad neglected although ran just fine mechanically and was checked out a dealership (ford albeit). Compression was fine, no signs of burning oil. And I've since done oil every 10k (km)

    No real problems until yesterday when suddenly I lost the almost all power and very loud slapping/sputtering ensued when accelerator was pressed. The engine light began to flash (implying a potential damage to the cat,etc?) and I managed to limp it the 5 mins to home.

    Upon plugging in the OBD I had codes reading a misfire on almost all cylinders (1-5) in addition to a code for random cylinder misfiring as well.

    although I'm not overly mechanically inclined, I'm going to go ahead and rule out sparks/coil packs because realistically they are not going to all fail at once, right?

    As for the sound, I've linked a video. I was told it sounds bottom end/crankshaft related and thats all I have to go off.

    codes being P0300 - P030(3,4,5) for cylinder misfire.

    Preparing for the worst (engine swap?) but I am very curious if anyone has seen such mechanical failure at such low mileage (165,000km).

    Any input is very much appreciated!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLGFM0xOYy8&feature=youtu.be
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2019
  2. Dec 30, 2019 at 7:05 PM
    #2
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 30, 2019 at 10:36 PM
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    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    Ya, that's what a rod knock sounds like. A broken piston rod is slapping against something in there. I had one, it was slight, reved the engine, it got worse, tried to drive it, it got really loud, scrapped it.
     
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  4. Dec 30, 2019 at 10:46 PM
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    US Marine

    US Marine Semper Fi

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    Rod knock with potential to window the block or oil pan
     
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  5. Dec 31, 2019 at 10:35 AM
    #5
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I read somewhere in here the 4.0 has a oil starvation problem on one side, worsened if your not filled to the top dot on the dip stick.

    So now is time to make a decision. I’d start by looking up what your truck is worth, kbb.com is helpful there. It sounds like repairing the engine isn’t something you would do at home. If you have a good shop you trust, ask for a prices. Repair, replace with a used engine, replace with a new engine. Repair may be more than going with a used engine. Of course if the cheapest option is more than the value of your truck you may need to walk away from it unless it holds some sentimental value. Other things to consider is the condition of other components. You won’t want to spend thousands then next month you need a clutch, or transmission, or suspension work. Factor in anything you know is going bad into the equation and perhaps fix it at the same time. I think a clutch is a simple fix with the engine out. Also consider upgrades like the urd throw out bearing.
     
  6. Dec 31, 2019 at 5:55 PM
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    ryang93

    ryang93 [OP] Member

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    Certainly could be rod knock, left her with Toyota and we'll see in a few days here. And yup, I've got some considerations but at such low mileage and relatively decent shape otherwise, looks like I'd be throwing in a used engine, or perhaps remanufactured if it comes down to it. Thanks
     
  7. Dec 31, 2019 at 8:01 PM
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    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I looked at your op, dug deeper into the p0300 code, there are multiple reasons that code could come up. Weak battery, vacuum leak, fuel pressure problems, ignition problems, cam position sensor. So even though it sounds like a rod knock, maybe you have a deteriorated intake manifold gasket or clogged fuel filter bad enough to cause it to misfire horribly sounding like a rod knock. Hard to say, it certainly sounds like a mechanical hammering rod knock noise. The dealer would probably have an advanced obd tool to dig deeper.
     
  8. Jan 3, 2020 at 8:25 AM
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    ryang93

    ryang93 [OP] Member

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    Thanks all.

    Dealer got back to me and all they really said to me was that there was shards of metal in the oil. He made an assumption that it was something bottom end and serious...probably not wrong about such but I expected a more researched conclusion. There guesses were crankshaft bearing(s) had gone.

    What hurts the most is his option to throw a $7300 (80,000km) engine in from a wreck...mentioned it would cost around 12K with labour and STILL cheaper than a rebuild. Sort of at a loss. I paid around 15,000 a year and a half ago.

    I'm quite sure engines can be had for a better price, just not sure how much value there is in Toyota mechanics doing it themselves....
     
  9. Jan 3, 2020 at 8:34 AM
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    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    that is a hose job on the repair.
     
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  10. Jan 3, 2020 at 9:03 AM
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    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    Guessing that’s Canadian dollars, but that’s still stupidly overpriced. Used engines are all over in the wrecking yards for about $2500-$2800US. It just amazes me that with all the rip off horror stories about dealers, that people still go to the dealers.
     
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  11. Jan 3, 2020 at 10:11 AM
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    US Marine

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    Now's the time for an LS2 or LS3 swap !!!!!!
     
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  12. Jan 3, 2020 at 10:53 AM
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    Superdave1.0

    Superdave1.0 Grandma Dave

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    You need friends that do mechanical work. Just helped a buddy install his rebuilt motor in his 80 LC.

    In the meantime I would buy a beater of a car ($1500). Unless you have other means of transportation. While you try to figure out a game plan.

    The Toyota dealer is going to rob you. Best to shop around independent mechanics to find a good price on labor.
     
  13. Jan 3, 2020 at 8:17 PM
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    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I would never go back to that dealership. It’s difficult if you don’t have a mechanic you know and trust. You might need to go to yelp or angies list. Perhaps you could find a trade school or jr college with an auto repair class. Not something I’ve ever done. I’ll bet if you offered to donate the hurt engine it might bump your priority up. You would still need to provide a engine. They like to have parts to practice valve seat grinding, cylinder machining and such. Just throwing an idea out there. Sorry for your misfortune.
     
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  14. Jan 3, 2020 at 10:34 PM
    #14
    ryang93

    ryang93 [OP] Member

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    Friend of my father actually has a well reviewed shop and was able to find me a new engine from a wreck with 66,000km on it for $4600 CAD including a warranty of some type. He is also able to do the install for a very reasonable shop hourly. I'm thinking this is too good to pass up...

    and regarding the dealership, would almost never be my first choice but I'm living out of home town and it was close to tow to. Thought they might provide "specialized insight" with their computers...
     
  15. Jan 3, 2020 at 10:49 PM
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    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    That’s more like it. Go for it.
     
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  16. Jan 5, 2020 at 4:36 PM
    #16
    ryang93

    ryang93 [OP] Member

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    Also while I have your expert opinions here - any no brainer parts in that realm that should be replaced or checked when installing the new engine? She's quit around 165,000k, so maybe a water pump? Or just leave all that seems to be well?
     
  17. Jan 5, 2020 at 4:56 PM
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    Superdave1.0

    Superdave1.0 Grandma Dave

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    Might get lucky on the water pump. I did new valve cover gaskets. Felpro brand, easy and cheap.
     

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