HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Well the intake can remain 3 inch, the only portion you want to be larger is the intake cone itself and the MAF adapter. If you use a 3.5 to 3 inch reducer coupler to tie in the rest together you end up getting a Venturi effect as an added benefit. It sort of works in the same theory of effect that AEM uses with their "Bruteforce" intake lineup.

2.3 pulley (and supporting mods obviously) with the 3.5" intake combination is killer.

I may just be seeing initial observations, but Its looking like my injector duty cycle went down to 80% over its previous 88% as well at WOT.

 

@TodayWasTHeDaY

I edited my previous post with the spot I picked up my MAF adapter from to include a direct link to the one I bought. You can get it in up to a 4" design, but for us, select 3.5.

 

Paging @JustDSM. Would there be any benefit to going up to a 4" tube for the Maf for future proofing (cams, stroker, etc?) The intake bottlenecks at the charger anyways so I don't think getting too much flow with the current setup would be a problem.

Would it create either too much turbulence or lose too much resolution for a non beefed up engine?

 

URD equal length headers and a aFe Stage 2 Si with the Dry filter.

 

My 3.5" MAF housing.

 

From what we're seeing on Kelby's motor, I do believe a 4" MAF housing could be warranted if the pulley sizes are 2.5 or smaller. His truck is pretty well dialed in at this point (need to go over his latest logs still) but with the 2.6" pulley he has been seeing the upper limits of the MAF in a 3.5" tube.

Even though the S/C necks down and in my opinion does choke airflow, their still is quite a bit of vacuum in front of the lobes. Enough to peg the MAF at 5.0v in a 3.5" housing..

 

That looks like exactly what I need.

 

You want to appropriately size your intake similar to how you want to size the exhaust appropriately otherwise you are providing TOO MUCH flow to the engine. The best thing you could do and should do, if you want to run future major power adders like cams or stroker kits, etc etc. is to get two different size MAF tubes and swap them out as well as swap the tune out accordingly after you have done the mods. I would not run a 4 inch setup right now.. none of us are running at Tundra horsepower right now, except @mightytacoman and maybe one or two other perhaps... They are overachievers.

 

No drone/rasp or low end losses with those headers?

 

Truck sounds 95% stock! Though I do have the stock y-pipe and catback. There is a *hint* of rasp with the stock unequal length y-pipe (and I mean hint) but the stock mini-cats really tame it down. The trucks overall volume is virtually stock and tone is similar though maybe a tad higher pitch but again barely. You'd seriously be hard pressed to tell anything at all was done to the exhaust.

The low end torque is actually way up compared to my previous setup (stock manifolds with the URD Spec-U exhaust). With the Spec-U equal length setup on the stock manifolds there was a pretty sizeable hit in low end torque in that 1600-2000RPM range. It did sound amazing with just the right amount of volume, and no drone or rasp. The top end power improved some but the power was definitely down below 2K RPM.

Right after HPTuners was released, I added the Spec-U headers and the truck picked up some of the lost low end torque that it had originally lost, and really moved at high RPM, but the resonance in the y-pipes merge collector was unbearable at low RPM. It was absolutely awful! I considered putting the truck back to stock and yanking the headers.

After I did a little investigating, I determined it was in fact the merge collector that URD fabricated for the Spec-U exhaust, as I was able to reproduce it with the wife revving the truck in the driveway and pin-pointing the origin. I removed the Spec-U exhaust and re-installed the factory Y and exhaust. I was AMAZED at how much low end torque came back. It was completely unexpected and took me by surprise.. I even did datalogging to do some before/after analysis, and airflow was only down 5g/sec at the top end compared to the full 3" exhaust.

In my opinion, the Spec-U headers and an otherwise stock exhaust is THE setup for a N/A truck that isn't trying to be "race truck". You'll get no-BS improved performance without any real difference in sound.

 

Thanks, appreciate that detailed reply

 

You an me both. So far i pretty much have everything either read to go, or awaiting pick up. @JustDSM you werent kidding about those ecu pins. Fuck me $25aud a piece with a tail. There was 7 in the entire country and 3 of them local. So ill take that as a win even though it bled the wallet. All i really have to do is read up on the finer points about making this Canbus wire and find a tidy solution for the resistors. Then pray that the immo reset works

 

Can someone give me a hand? I installed headers and am trying to get my downstream o2 sensor check engine light from coming on. I found the ones the ones to delete, but insure if I am supposed to uncheck both boxes and if the mil on optioknshould be 1st or 2nd. Also if anyone has some tips on how to make the rpms drop a little faster between shifts (6 speed).

The p0420 and p0430 are the ones I'm after

 

For off road use only.


I believe one check box is for the MIL and another is for the Systems readyness check via obd for SMOG. The 1st or 2nd is the option to trip the code on first or second occurrence of the issue. That settings wont come into play if both the checkboxes are unselected.

 

Thanks for the reply @nd4spdbh Absolutely for off road use only. So just uncheck both boxes and good to go?

 

Yes

 

Thanks, guys.

 

I will send you a full list of the codes in about twenty minutes. It is more than just a few boxes.

 

Can u sling them
This way also Please sir

 

will do.