TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

true. hense the term PITA to put it lightly.

 

I personally just run an internal.

If you want you can honestly run it anyway, but if you insist on an external, run it rhe same way an OE manufacturer would. With a sock in place before the external filter, that way the pump has less chance of getting damage by picking up and collecting sediment internally within it's body leading to eventual failure.

 

@nudavinci64 consider it a long term maintenance item. While you may never experience an issue with the stock pump for the life of the car, as Denso pumps are tough, it's still possible to clog the filter over time. Ie. I purchased my FJ used and there's no possible way that I'd know how careless the previous owner was to taking care of the motor. It's just best to not have any impeding flow.

 

Fuel pump upgrade is on my list of things to do, but I'm curious whether deleting the sock poses any long-term problems for the pump since it's now trying to pass any debris it might collect from the bottom of the fuel tank?

My biggest concern is whether deleting it poses an increased risk of pump damage from tank debris, but I agree with @White lightning boosted, that servicing it is a PITA.

 

Somewhere down the evolution, some engineer realized that the pumps could get damaged by service station debris getting into the tank. They all came with socks henceforth. Use it.

 

Honestly now that I think about it. I’m not sure if I left the sock on or not cause it’s been over 10 years since I did the new fuel pump upgrade. Whatever the XRU community did at the time is how I followed suit.

 

This was always my thought process as well. It only makes sense to set it up that way.

 

That's my concern, exactly. Thanks, guys!

 

agreed. I already have a new pump I will be tossing in. Looking at easier ways to upkeep maintenance and if there are other benefits. I do like having more convenience when doing maintenance. Lets me get quick things done when I am limited on time.

 

Can confirm fuel hose size running from the tank? 3/8? 5/16? I think I need -6AN fittings.

I went with the deatschwerks inline 10 micron. The FST looks mighty nice and I like the water separator feature but may hang low if I rail mount it.

 

Factory lines are 5/16".

 

@mightytacoman and anyone else curious about the Mishimoto 160°, for the 03-04 4Runner 1GR, used on an 05+ Tacoma.

Swapped it in last night. Also swapped in an Aisin water pump. As mine was leaking from the weep hole.

Burped it last night, but didn't get to drive it until today.

42° ambient. Stayed about 163 peak. Fluctuating between 157 and 163°. Until I got to slow traffic near my office.

For the first time ever that I have had the Ron Davis radiator with dual SPAL fans, once the fans kicked on at 186-188°, that they were able to cool it below 166-168 and they turned back off. Never has that happened in all these years. I am impressed and happy with that outcome.

It will certainly run cooler in the Summer months. Mind everyone, my engine has ductile iron sleeves.

 

I got one coming in the mail today or tomorrow actually. I had a feeling the Mishimoto was gonna out perform the 160 Motorad unit. Thank you for confirming. Still waiting on my dual electric fans to come in the mail.

 

Of course.

Now for you, or any of the other guys running sleeved engines, and HP Tuners, you'll likely have to lower the minimum operating temp setting. It should be 168°. If it isn't reached within a certain time limit, then the CEL will set. Confirm with @JustDSM .

 

I am approaching 115K and will be picking up a Mishimoto T stat soon myself. Honestly I am thinking one more summer with the OE thermostat before I feel outside of the comfort zone of it being done. I am pretty sure the CEL will come on for my junker as well so I will need to make adjustments when the time comes with JustDSM so it doesn't trip on due to under temp.

I still am waiting to see what solution he comes up with for running an 11 PCM in a 12+ 2nd gen with the whole inop coolant gauge thing. My current solution will likely involve getting one or two 30-0311 gauges from AEM so I can not only read coolant temp, but various other PID readouts from the PCM at the push of a button, but still match my current boost/ AFR gauge style setup.

Since the gauges would use OBD info and obviously need to plug into the OBD plug beneath the dash, I was thinking of running this splitter from eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/p/21025125069?...inMTD2H3I7yeDhx8XPZBoCatoQAvD_BwE#UserReviews

 

I can help you guys with the thermostat, but the coolant temp gauge ('12+ Gauge w/ '11 is going to be a bit. Got some homework to do). Best solution right now I think is to use the AEM OBD gauges or something else pulling data from the CAN network.

 

https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/obdii

Apparently I'd even be able to clear OBD2 codes without ever having to plug a scanner back in. Double win if I go this route!

I'm just waiting on my pillar pod to arrive and once it does I'll get to buying the gauges. Still not sure if I want to run one or two of them. Piggybacking off the OBD port twice over is not exactly the best idea to me.

 

When/if you flash, make sure the MPVI2 is the only thing in there!

 

I could technically just have the gauges switched off using the supplied integrated switches right? Or would it just be safer to disconnect the whole rig and then just run the MPVI2?

 

You could get away with that, but in all honesty, for the flashing procedure I'd just remove everything from the OBD port to minimize the risk of anything happening.

Datalogging/normal use you can leave it all plugged in no problem.