Impact Gun

Is it the Fuel M18?

I took off lugnuts, the axle nut, and disassembled the front suspension when I replaced the CV axles.

That said, I would go with a 1/2" mid-torque at least for regular suspension work.

Now I have the giant Fuel 1/2" which will remove or break almost anything you can imagine. Have to be careful with it!

I also have the stubby M12 fuel 3/8 which has enough power for about 90% of anything I'll ever do. For the rest, I get out "Bertha"

 

I apologize I meant 9ah dewalt battery however I’ve tried taking bolts off with the smaller fully charged battery and it wouldn’t budge ,but came right off with the 9ah. I’ve had the same results with other brands also ryobi included. You are correct as far as the batteries not making any more power 20v 9ah vs 20v 4ah however that doesn’t take into account discharge rate. That spec isn’t usually available but makes a huge difference. I deal with rc car batteries and makes a huge difference

 

Energy is the same. Power is potentially different. Sorry nuance is getting me again. I think we are saying the same thing.

 

Okay, okay. I concede. If it peaks at say 160 some odd watts, but baselines a constant 108W, sure: the power is variable. Energy, and potential energy, remain unchanged.

 

Thanks.

 

+1

 

Been rocking Makita since the 9.6V Nicad days. My entire tool set now runs the 18V batts, drill, impact driver, grinder, circular saw, recip, multi-tool, planer, jigsaw, sds drill. My former boss bought whatever was cheap and blew it up. Maybe just him but his Dewalt and milwaukee cordless drill both died. Parts are available if I need brushes or bearings but I've yet to replace a switch(had many fail on corded tools such as Skilsaw, Bosche jigsaw, or Milwaukee sawzall). Avoid aftermarket batteries for any tool, they sometimes leave out the critical bms cicuits.

 

Oh crap. I have The fuel 1/4" p#2653-20 impact driver. I just leave the 3/8" attachment on it so I wrongly remember it as a 3/8 impact.

My 1/2" one is p#2655-20 "impact wrench"

Both using the m18 xc4.0 battery.

$159 48-11-1840 Impact Driver,Pistol Grip,18VDC

48-11-1840

1/2" one is pretty small. Gets what I need done.

 

Fwiw 18v and 20v batteries both use sets of 5 lithium ion cells. The difference is in name only, the average charge of each cell is ~3.7v times 5 is a bit over 18V and the full charge is a bit over 4v times 5 is 20v, same cells, different labeling . The larger ones have 2 parallel sets and the smaller batteries have one set of 5 batteries. Upgrades in cell type allow the same size packs to have different amphour specs. That's why the newer Makita 18V batteries are 4Ahr and the older ones the same size are 3Ahr.

 

K. Fully charged and even with a ridiculously long setup with adapters and long 21mm socket, my 1/4" driver will take off lugs that were torqued to 85ftlbs on my truck if you unload the tire almost all the way. Tough sob.

 

In refineries, it was the weapon of choice. I never wanted to pony up the 500 bux for one (+having to have batteries for it only) but watching guys go all day on 1 1/4 rusty nuts convinced me they were the best. I saw everything used. Milwaukee was good enough for their price. Maybe DW is better now

 

I have the same gun, only running 3.0AH batteries but it seems to last forever still, and I haven't run into anything it wasn't able to hammer off yet, and I do plenty of stuff bigger than anything you'd find on a Toyota truck.

 

I prefer Dewalt myself. I will start using my new 20V Max Brushless tomorrow.



It has over twice the torque of the old one purchased in 2010. It is also a hog ring.

18V - DW059B - 1/2" Drive - 300 Ft/Lb Anvil
20V Max - DCF899HB - 1/2" Drive - 700 Ft/Lb - 1200 Breakaway - Hog ring - Brushless - LED at base pointing up to work

 

I used the 899 for the first time today and it far better than the old 18V one. Removing the wheel nuts at 3 was like nothing for it at 90 Ft\Lbs. It was the same for the spacer nuts.

After replacing the faulty brake caliper I set the 899 to setting 1 to get the nuts on but not torque them. It was very slow which was great so I didn't have to worry about stripping them.

I used a high quality torque wrench to torque wrench to get them to spec. For what it does the improvement from the 18V is worth it.

The hog ring is also way easier to put on a socket than the anvil.

 

I'm saying. I hope you read my attempts at persuading people (earlier in this thread) that the 899HB was the gun to beat...

 

the anvil button does slow down operation. I just keep an allen wrench around but also my 1/4" Impact Driver setup for smaller bolts/nuts. I only take the 1/2" with me when I go to the track though.

 

OP, I'm sure you have made your decision by now but if you haven't, take into consideration the workload of certain brands. The versatility of Milwaukee and Dewalt are pretty unmatched. I've had good real work experience with Makita 1/2" impact, but I've also owned Dewalt at home for the last couple years. Dewalt is more construction/home focused, and Milwaukee is more automotive focused. You can find a lot of Dewalt tools on sale or deals on eBay, and I've bought two XR models for under $80. But I don't think that you'll find the same Milwaukees for as cheap. So to me Dewalt is what I want to put my money into for battery conservation. I wouldn't mind buying some Milwaukee M12 stuff because it's a totally different battery for a different purpose.

 

What makes one construction and one automotive focused?

 

I purchased both my 1/2 and 1/4 from a CPO referbished outlet. can't remember if was direct from Milwaukee or not but they came with full warranty. Got the 1/2" for a killer deal and it came with brand new batteries. I purchased the 1/4" as tool only bc the 1/2" came with two batteries. Worth checking into but YMMV. Best time to buy is typically holiday season though.

 

The 899HB doesn't have a detent anvil. No need for anything to depress a detent as there is a hog ring to friction fit sockets.

Exactly lol