AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures

As a guy who went to school as an EE, I can tell you that wire taps aren't bad in the way you think they are. They are used in industry all the time. Not that soldering isn't fine too - each definitely have their place.

OK, so here's the thing... For running your Hellas, the key is to get voltage over the Hella relay when you want the Hellas to turn on (obviously). You can do that by either supplying +12V to the relay, or by keeping the +12V at the relay all the time, and connecting ground when you want it to trigger.

It's about where the switch is in the circuit - is it between the battery and load, or between the load and ground. Diagram:

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All people are saying when they say that connecting ground when you want it to trigger is that it might be easier to do it that way, since that's the way the rest of the lighting is wired.

 

Mine are offset. I got the entire kit from Matt @ MCM Fab. I didn’t think about it at the time and apparently installed mine backwards. I don’t have any rub issues though but when I take them out for service, I’ll install correctly.

 

Sure crimping is fine. Especially ones that shrink wrap I like a lot.

But the splice things are crap IMO that Dan used. They fall apart or corrode super easily.

 

@m3bassman here is the procedure to test whether your headlights are ground switched or not.

(from one of crashnburn's headlight threads)

Ground Test Procedure:
-Looking at the back of the factory Toyota H4 headlight connector, as installed, the outside two connections are vertical & the top connection is horizontal.
-The left connection, when viewed from the back, is the "common" H4 connection.
-On a Ground Switched vehicle, the left connection would have +12 volts (in relation to ground) as soon as the headlight switch is turned on.
-On a Conventionally Switched vehicle, the left "common" connection would ground directly to the chassis and would not have any measurable voltage present. Note that you are looking for 0v vs 12v+. A measurement of 0.xxv is noise and should be considered 0 for the purpose of this test.

So if you get your ADS COs from ADS they are not offset but if you buy the same ADS COs through MCM they are offset. This makes no sense.

 

I think he has lt though. Maybe that's what I'm remembering as well. Different angles with lt.

 

Actually I picked up mine directly from ADS here in Tucson.

 

Gear Roundup - What I Take With Me On Trips (2019 edition)
December 20, 2019.

Last year I wrote up the first Gear Roundup, and tons of folks seemed to like it so I figured that I should follow up this year - covering what's still the same, but also what's changed. Taken with the Rig Reviews, this series of posts give a good sense of what's working and what's not with the setup. So, without further ado, let's dig into what's on and in the truck at the end of 2019!

Additions for 2019 are marked in red.
Items we no longer take are struck through.

The Truck Itself
Obviously we can't adventure without the actual vehicle. To see how it's outfitted, check out the Truck Details Build Page (2019) and the relevant links there to the various mods that were part of this year's configuration.

From previous years, the following were new or significantly changed:

1. Suspension - the rear got relocated ADS shocks, and the front got ADS coilovers and SPC upper control arms (UCAs).
2. Wheels and Tires - to alleviate the muddy mess, I switched out the SCS Stealth6's for some 3rd gen 4Runner 5-spoke wheels, which I then painted bronze. Love them.
3. Electrical - I added a dual AGM battery system to the truck, for peace of mind when it's hot out and the fridge is working hard.
4. Bed Rack - I modified my RTT rack slightly to provide more support across the front of the bed. Not sure it really does anything though.

In all, the truck performed admirably - doing nearly everything I asked of it. As of right now, there are no major changes I want to make to it for 2020!

Sleeping Gear
Sleeping gear is a place I made a big change for 2019. We purchased an Exped MegaMat Duo 10 LW - to replace the foam mattress that ships with the CVT Mt. Shasta - and it has been a game changer. It is one of my top 2 mods on the entire truck at this point, I'd say. This is because the key to any longer trip is a good place to sleep. While the CVT Mt. Shasta is a great tent and is the foundation of my sleeping gear, it was never quite as warm and comfortable as I'd have liked by the time I woke up in the morning. The Exped changes all that. It is a combo foam-and-air mattress that keeps us warmer and more comfortable through the night, and it fits the footprint of the tent really well.

1. Two heavyweight down comforters, twin size. We like comforters for two reasons - first, they are so much more comfortable and cozy than a sleeping bag - great for a good night sleep. And second, they compress better when the tent is folded up. Two allow us to control temperatures easily.
2. One bottom sheet, fitted to the Exped MegaMat Duo mattress. With a sheet and comforters, it's like sleeping in a bed. I know I'm really talking this up, so I recommend you read my rig review about it here.
3. Two full-size pillows. There's no better pillow than your home pillow, and we've put two of our older ones in the tent permanently.
4. Ear plugs. On windy nights, or if you're near the highway, soft foam (designed for sleeping) ear plugs can be a lifesaver. I always keep a few pair in one of the tent pockets.
5. A warm (polartec) cap. I like to sleep with the doors and windows open whenever I can - even when it's cold. A cap keeps the breeze off my head, and keeps me a lot toastier through those cold nights.

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Clothing and Footwear
Clothing hasn't changed much from last year - and while it varies a bit each trip, it is more consistent than one might think. There are likely a couple reasons for this - first, the weather is unpredictable, so I always like to have both long-and-short pieces of clothing; second, I never end up changing clothes all that often on a trip - getting dirty is just part of the adventure. So, that said, here's what I bring:

1. A clean pair of underwear for every day.
2. A clean pair of socks for every day. I'll tend bring a 75/25 combo of crew/ankle socks depending on what I expect my pants/shorts situation to be, since I much prefer taller socks with pants and shorter socks with shorts.
3. A pair of running sneakers - my primary shoe in dry conditions.
4. A pair of Keen waterproof hiking boots - my primary shoe in wet conditions.
5. A pair of Muck Boots - a great alternative for really muddy forays out of the truck.
6. One pair of pants per week of trip, plus one extra.
7. One pair of shorts per week of trip, plus one extra.
8. Two short-sleeve shirts per week of trip, plus one extra.
9. Two long-sleeve shirts per week of trip, plus one extra.
10. Two sweatshirts (with hoods).
11. One pair of sweatpants - usually only used to layer if it gets cold, or to wear in bed at night if it's freezing.
12. One waterproof, hooded, rain jacket.
13. One down puffy.
14. Weather dependent: One pair of gortex ski gloves.
15. Sunglasses.
16. A baseball hat.
17. A fabric (not leather) belt - this turns out to be important, as you're often bending over and because I always tend to lose weight on longer trips.
18. Two reusable grocery bags - one of which I use for dirty clothes, and the other to store my shoes in when I go in the tent.

With everything above, it's easy to adapt to the weather in almost any conditions. There are enough warm clothes to layer up when it gets cold. The one change I've made for 2019 here is that I now store my clothes in a cardboard box instead of a backpack. They are more accessible that way, and stack more nicely in the extended cab of the truck.

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Toiletries
Not much to say here - this stuff doesn't take up much room and I just slip most of it into my clothes bag.

1. Toothbrush (and charger as necessary) and toothpaste. In 2019, I started bringing my electric Philips Sonicare Toothbrush, because it works so much better than the manual style.
2. Toilet paper - 2 rolls. I've found that a single roll is enough for all but the longest trips, but this is something you want to have a backup of, in case you lose the first roll, or it gets wet...
3. Baby wipes. Go for unscented, and make sure they are resealable. I like to take two packs per trip - one to keep in the cab, and the other in the kitchen box. Use them sparingly for washing hands and every day for "showering" the spots that get stinky.
4. Deodorant
5. Electric shaver (two-week trips only) - while I probably only end up using this once per two-week trip, it's amazing how nice it can feel to get a week's worth of itchy facial hair growth trimmed down.

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Electronics
Something I didn't cover last year were the electronics (beyond what's built into the truck) that goes on a trip. Mostly, this is camera equipment and other items necessary to support my style of photography.

1. In a camera bag (which came with the camera, so use any bag you prefer)
   1. Canon 80D DSLR - used to shoot most (99% now) photos on a MicroSD card.
   2. Canon EF-S 18-135mm IS USM Lens - my primary lens.
   3. Canon EF-S 10-18mm IS STM Lens - used for wide angle shots.
   4. Extra Canon Battery LP-E6N (80D) and charger.
2. A small, 175W Inverter - for charging camera batteries an my laptop
3. MeFOTO Roadtrip S Tripod - used primarily for sunrise photos, the occasional sunset, and the even more occasional selfie.
4. My laptop - for offloading photos and image processing.

Food on trips
No trip has exactly the same food - but I do follow a pattern, so it makes sense to explain that pattern and then I'll share some sample food items.

Generally, I plan to eat out (fast food) any meals that are on the way to the location of the trip; I eat out of the truck for the "on-trail" adventure; on the way home, I plan to eat out again. So, if I have an 8 hour freeway drive before hitting the trail, I might eat a single fast food meal each direction . If I've got 24-hours of "getting there," I could end up eating three meals before breaking into any of the food I packed, and then stopping for fast food three more times on the way home.

Using this methodology, I can generally expect two weeks of on-trail food (for one person; one weeks for 2 people, etc.). The real limiting factor is that you don't want to have food longer than a couple weeks without freezing, and fresh food (veggies, etc.) don't last longer than a couple weeks without rotting.

Eating Out of the Truck
When I'm eating out of the truck, I separate food into two classes: cooled and un-cooled. Cooled food must all fit in the ARB 50qt fridge, which I keep at 33-35ºF during the day (truck running) and 37-39ºF when in camp with the truck off; un-cooled food goes into a small-size military medical case.

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As far as meals go, I like to pre-prepare as much as possible at home - largely to reduce prep and cleanup when on-trail. My goal, generally, is to have - at most - a single plate and single pan to clean after dinner, a single bowl at breakfast, and perhaps a knife at lunch!

I also repeat meals and ingredients (across meals to reduce the number of different packs of things to buy/pack). Breakfast and lunch may be identical every day or alternate between two options. Dinners repeat every 3-4 days.

With that background, here are some sample meals. Ingredients are coded as such: (PP) - pre-prepped | (O) - optional, may have a limited supply if on-trail for an extended time | Cooled | Un-cooled.

Breakfast

• Breakfast cereal - Cheerios, milk, strawberries (O), blueberries (O). Note: fruit lasts up to 1 week.
• Breakfast sandwich - outdoor roll, spicy sausage, 2 eggs, butter. Note: butter is to cook eggs.

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Lunch

• Lunch 1 - sliced sandwich bread, peanut butter, jelly, apple, chips, cookies.
• Lunch 2 - sliced sandwich bread, deli meat, lettuce (PP), avocado, mayo (O), mustard (O), apple, chips, cookies. Note: mayo and mustard from packets.

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Dinner

• Tacos - ground beef with taco seasoning (PP - cooked), flour tortillas, sliced cheddar cheese, cabbage (PP), avocado.
• Cheeseburger - elongated ground beef patty (PP - raw), outdoor roll, sliced cheddar cheese, lettuce (PP), avocado, mayo (O), mustard (O), pickle, chips. Note: mayo and mustard from packets; try to eat raw meat in first 5 days.
• Steak - marinated skirt steak (PP - raw), mashed potatoes (PP - cooked), cauliflower; try to eat raw meat in first 5 days.
• Pasta - tomato or pesto pasta sauce, cheese ravioli, cauliflower.
• Hot dogs - spicy sausage, outdoor roll, ketchup (O), mustard (O), chips (O). Note: ketchup and mustard from packets.
• Rotisserie chicken - chicken from safeway (PP - all meat removed from bones), green beans (O), broccoli (O).

Dessert and Snacks

• Homemade chocolate chip cookies (PP)
• Hershey's Nuggets
• Granola Bars
• Chips

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Kitchen Gear
All the kitchen gear is stored in a single, aluminum, medium-size, military medical case. This makes it relatively easy to get to, and of course protects it from the elements. The case contains:

1. A propane Coleman Camp Stove/Grill. This makes it equally easy to heat up a pan or grill a burger, and folds down relatively small. The only think I don't really like about it is that the burners are either on or off - though they look adjustable, they aren't really.
2. Two 1lb cylinders of propane. This seems to be enough to last for a couple weeks, and having a backup means that when one runs out, I can start looking for another if I think I'll run out before the end of the trip.
3. A plastic cutting board. I generally don't use this all that much (I opt to cut on a disposable paper plate), but it's nice to have just in case.
4. Plastic bowls - one per person, but a minimum of two. Used for breakfast cereal or scrambled eggs.
5. Plastic plates - one per person, but a minimum of two. I sometimes use these for cutting items, but more often I use them for simply supporting a paper plate that I eat off of.
6. Paper plates - usually about 50 of the cheapest ones I can find. We have a stack at home and I make sure there are a bunch in the case before a trip - these are my primary prep/eating surface since clean-up is easy (fire or trash).
7. One stainless steel mixing bowl. Used primarily for doing dishes, when there are dishes to do.
8. Utensils stored in a plastic container:
   1. Two (one per person, min of two) - forks, spoons
   2. One (only) - butter knife, spatula, serving spoon, small tongs, small sharp kitchen knife (love this knife, it's always sharp)
9. Paper towels - one roll per week.
10. Baby wipes. Go for unscented, and make sure they are resealable. Use them sparingly for washing hands.
11. Aluminum foil - a full box, which you can use to make hobo meals (meals you cook in the camp fire, by double wrapping them with foil).
12. A small container of dish soap and a sponge for washing dishes. Stored in a small watertight lock-and-lock box so that everything doesn't get wet and soapy. (Note: these lock-and-locks are great - we use the other sizes for storing food in the fridge.)
13. Fire starting implements - at least one box of wooden matches and a cheap lighter.
14. 10 quart-size Ziplock plastic freezer bags. A box of sandwich bags.
15. A bit of clothesline rope. Never used, but good to have just in case we need to hang or tie something.
16. A 10" stainless steel skillet.
17. A 2 qt steel sauce pan. This is better than the skillet I used to take, and also allows heating up of things like soup.

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First Aid
I've been super lucky and never had to use my first aid kits for anything except minor cuts and scrapes, but I always take two kits with me - one for minor stuff, and one that can help in a more serious event. Of course, they both contain some of the basic items, since one kit or the other may be quicker to grab at any given time. The kit's contain the following:

Minor stuff; kit kept in kitchen container:

• assortment of band-aids (sizes and shapes)
• burn cream
• sterile eye pads
• sterile gauze (different sizes and shapes)
• medical tape
• scissors
• CPR mouth shield
• two ice packs
• IB Profin (Advil)
• UTI pills (cranberry concentrate)

Trauma kit, kept in cab of truck:

• flexible splint
• clothing scissors
• large sterile pads (various large sizes and shapes)
• non-latex rubber gloves
• idoine cleaning pads
• medical tape
• band-aids (various sizes and shapes)
• tourniquet

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Basic Tools
These are tools that I think should go on every trip, no matter how short. Of course, a break down may mean the adventure is "over", but with them, you can get yourself out of a lot of situations, and back to civilization.

• Tire related
  • 20-foot compressed air hose with ARB tire inflator - I've added a longer hose to the ARB inflator for convenience.
  • Full size spare tire (255/85 R16 Cooper ST Maxx) on matching wheel (16" 4Runner 5-spoke) - Having a total replacement for a wheel/tire is good practice when in remote areas. Of course, along with tires, I also use the following on every trip:
  • Tire pressure gauge - get the cheapest you can IMO. It's just checking pressure and you mostly want to make sure all tires are the same and around a certain PSI.
  • Tire deflators - these things are cheap and work way better than the tools that unscrew the valve stem. You can even install them and then air down while driving.
  • Tire plug kit, to fit many small punctures. I didn't use the plug kit this year, but I've used it several times over the years. All the kits are basically the same as long as you get the tools. So get the cheapest one you can.
• 48" Hi-Lift Jack - with a lifted truck, the stock bottle jack is no longer tall enough, so I now carry a Hi-Lift. No point in bringing a spare tire, if you don't have a jack that allows you to change it!
• Fuel
  • 10 gallons extra fuel - in 5-gallon Scepter (military issue, plastic) jerry cans. I've only ever needed 5 gallons for myself, but it's nice to have extra and I've definitely shared with others who had thirstier trucks.
  • Cap opening wrench - necessary to open the Scepter jerry cans at a different altitude than they were previously closed.
  • To transfer fuel from the jerry cans to the tank, I bring and use a fuel siphon. Make sure to get a 10' siphon, so you can leave the fuel cans in the bed or on your rear bumper when you transfer fuel.
• Small Fiskars hatchet - useful for splitting smaller firewood, clearing small down-fall, and as a hammer.
• 20' of 3/8" rope - something I carry in the truck at all times, and always have.
• A folding 10" Japanese pull saw - this is way more convenient for cutting small trees out of the way than the hatchet or chainsaw. I've used it well over 100 times and it's still as sharp as ever.
• Two small (500lb) ratchet straps - these straps can be used for securing loads and for temporary repairs, holding pieces of your vehicle in place so you can limp to repair.
• A pair of rubberized gloves - I get mine at Harbor Freight, but any gloves will do and they look cheaper on amazon if you buy several pair. These are a necessity when changing tires, working on the truck, chopping wood, or using the chainsaw - allowing for better grip than bare hands.

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• This tool roll, which conveniently holds 95% of the tools I need to fix anything that breaks on the trail in an organized fashion. I've tried other rolls, and they just don't have the right set of pockets, where this one does. Into the tool roll, put:
  • Several 3/8" sockets in the following sizes (set): 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm
  • 3/8" Spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm)
  • 3/8” socket extensions - 3-, 6-, 10-inch lengths
  • 3/8" ratchet (socket set) - do yourself a favor that I didn't , and get a flex head for access to more bolts.
  • Several crescent + box end wrenches in the following sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm
  • Set of metric Allen/hex key's ranging up to 10mm
  • 10mm flare nut wrench for working with brake lines
  • Wire cutters
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Channellock pliers
  • Adjustable wrenches - 4.5-inch, 8-inch, 10-inch. I've found these to be quite valuable for holding a nut when tightening a bolt, or for hex head sizes I don't have a dedicated wrench/socket for (usually aftermarket parts).
  • Several screw drivers: Flat screw driver, Philips screw driver, Long flat screw driver.
  • A retractable razor utility knife
  • Reusable zip ties
  • Some wire
  • Some electrical tape

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Basic Recovery Gear
Much of the equipment in the basic tool set and OSK can be used as part of a recovery - but in addition to those items, I always have the following with me in the truck. Every one of these items has been used on one trip or another, though none of them are used very often. I'd bring all of these things, even if I wasn't bringing the full OSK.

• Full-size, long fiberglass handle digging shovel - I feel like this is something often overlooked, or where people decide that a little folding shovel will be good enough. I however prefer a tool that is comfortable to use and moves a good amount of material. This year alone, I used it in mud, snow, and sand.
• 30-foot tow strap, rated at 30,000 lbs.
• 8-foot tree saver, rated at 30,000 lbs.
• Smittybuilt snatch block
• 4, 7/8-inch pin shackles - 2 rated at 4.75 ton, and 2 rated at 6.5 ton

I of course also have a Warn M8000-S winch hidden in the front bumper of the truck, but it's usually the last tool I turn to - I've found that most situations don't require a winch to escape.

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OSK (Oh Shit Kit) - More Tools and Spare Parts

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My OSK hasn't changed much this year at all, and is something I plan to change in the near future - in a way that I think is not normal for most of us. I am going to remove several items from it! That will be a project for 2020 however - for this year, the OSK remained largely unchanged from last.

The OSK containers I use are a 5 gallon bucket (for fluids) and an aluminum, medium-size, military medical case.

Fluids

• 5 qt Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic engine oil - this isn't enough for a full oil change, but it is enough to refill a lot of lost oil, and is likely enough to limp back to town for more oil.
• 1 qt Lucas 80W-90 gear oil - similar to the motor oil, this is enough to refill a leak, but not fully fill a diff. Use it to limp back.
• WD-40 PTFE Dry Lube - This is the WD-40 that I now use as my go-to variant since it's a dry lube and so doesn't attract the dust and dirt so common on the trail.
• MAF cleaner - I've had problems with my MAF a couple of times, so this is now a staple in my kit.
• Throttle Body cleaner - I've never (that I know) had a specific problem with the TB, but this is a good all-purpose cleaner as well, so it is part of the kit.
• Brake fluid - brakes are a key component of a working rig. If a leak happens somewhere, I want to be able to refill any lost fluid - at least enough to limp back to civilization.

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Parts

• 1 Spare CV axle - I personally carry an aftermarket CV that I was loaned by a buddy, but you can also carry an OEM one as well, if you don't want to perform a second replacement upon your return from a trip.
• Spare Lower Ball Joints - one Left w/bolts (43340-39585), one Right w/bolts (43330-39815) - I carry and use only OEM lower ball joints, as they are known to be of higher quality than any available aftermarket joints.
• Spare AC idler pulley (88440-04040) - these seem to go out all the time, and having a trail spare will relieve you of the dreadful squealing.
• Spare rear u-joint (04371-60070)
• Spare center bearing (37230-35130), often incorrectly called carrier bearing.
• Assortment of spare fuses.

Tools

• ½" drive, 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
• SAE & metric, 6-point, deep & shallow, 3/8" and 1/2" drive impact socket set - most of these sockets duplicate what's in my basic tool kit size-wise, but having deep sockets in a more complete kit is a lifesaver for certain applications. I find myself using this kit more than I imagined.
• 24" long, ½" drive, breaker bar
• 35mm socket - for removal of the CV axle nut.
• Socket adapter and reducer set (1/2->3/8; 3/8->1/4; 3/8->1/2; 1/4->3/8)
• Pry bars - useful when changing a CV axle.
• 3lb deadblow mallet
• Multimeter - electrical gremlins can be hard to diagnose even with a meter, but they are impossible to figure out without one.
• Assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts ranging from M6 to M14, varying lengths
• Blue (242) Loctite
• Bailing wire

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Water
I bring 5 gallons in a Scepter (military issue, plastic) jerry can. I generally expect to use ½-1 gallon/day per person. Fill up in town (fuel stations) when running low.

Though water is stored in the jerry can, that's not a convenient way to drink it, or use it for washing. For those activities, we use

• Two Camelback water bottles - these are useful for drinking out of, and stay sealed up when driving.
• Camelback Rogue Hydration Pack - this can store enough water for a longer hike and is also useful for washing dishes - water flow can be started by suction and then continues via siphon at a high enough rate to wash, but low enough rate to not waste too much water.

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Miscellaneous
There are a few things that don't fit well in other categories, so I'll list them here:

• A Trasharoo for all our garbage. We don't generally make much trash on a trip, but any we do (and any we find in camp from previous adventurers) goes into the bag and is forgotten until we get home.
• Low camp chair - I like this model of chair because it's a more reclined position which is comfortable for me when lounging around the fire or reading. I should note that it's not better when eating.
• Several 18-inch long 2x6 boards - for leveling the truck in camp.
• A 2' x 3' astroturf rug/door mat - for the bottom of the RTT ladder, to keep from getting muddy on those rainy nights. And, for laying on if I have to work on the truck while on the dusty trail. Get whatever old mat you can find for free - that's how I got mine!

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Only on Some Trips
There isn't much that I only bring on certain trips, since a bed that isn't full means that things have a tendency to slide around. But, there are a few things that only come along when I think I'll need them.

Chainsaw

• Chainsaw - I decided that if I need a chainsaw, I want it to work, so I purchased a Stihl MS-261 professional saw with a 20" bar. This wasn't a cheap purchase, but it's never let me down...and I know other saws that can't say the same.
• Chainsaw sharpener - something I added this year, and don't know how I've lived without!
• Chainsaw fuel - 1 gallon of pre-mixed fuel/oil mix in a fuel rotopax. This seems to be more than I ever need on a single trip.
• Chainsaw bar oil - 1 qt of Stihl bar oil. Like the fuel, if I need more than this, I should likely find another route around the dead-fall.

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And that's what I've got. I think I've managed to list pretty much everything, but I'm sure there are things that you may feel that I'm missing. I'd love to hear any feedback or suggestions!

 

This is really outstanding, Dan! Thanks for posting it up!

 

Thanks for sharing this with us.
I received the brake lines, thank you.

 

Yes, I could use one.

 

Sure thing, hope it's helpful in some way!

Awesome, that was pretty quick on the lines - by all means, let me know if you've got any question on the install.

 

Winter Weight Loss for the Tacoma
December 23, 2019.

It's not natural. It's uncomfortable. It's hard. And, I know it's the right thing to do - I want to find a way to cut some weight off of the Tacoma.

When I purchased the truck, Toyota listed the curb weight of a 4WD SR5 V6 Xtracab at something right around 3,500 lbs, and the gross weight (GVWR) at something near 5100 lbs. Or at least, that's what I can find on the internet in 2019, since I wasn't at all interested or concerned with those numbers at the time. Unfortunately for me - and the truck - when I roll it onto a scale on the side of the highway, the numbers I see today are a little different. Fully loaded, it weighs in right around 5800 lbs, or 700lbs over Toyota's max GVWR!

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Of course, I've done various things to try and account for the additional weight, like upgraded ADS suspension, reinforcing of the rear frame, etc. but still - if at all possible, I'd like to get the truck a little lighter. My goal is to drop 500 lbs.

Impossible you say?​

Yeah, probably. Let's get started.

Trimming the Butt End
My first order of business was doing some work on the rear bumper. Ever since I installed the CBI Outback 1.0 bumper, I've wanted to get rid of the Hi-Lift mount on the driver side swing-out. I've got my Hi-Lift mounted to the bed rack, and the tall triangular shape of the swing-out crowds my side mirror.

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I've never really summoned up the courage to cut into the powder coat on the bumper, but figured that this was as good a reason as any. So, !

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A bit of welding and painting to finish off the new top edge and I was done. And look, progress! 7.25 lbs down, 492.75 lbs to go!

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Flush with success, I decided I'd make one more modification to the bumper. See, CBI makes some parts of their bumpers adjustable - this is understandable, since they sell to thousands of people. The spare tire carrier is one such piece, where two pieces of 3/16" steel overlap for about 3", allowing the mount to adjust for tires with varying amounts of backspace.

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Well, I'm not planning to change my wheel or tire size any time soon (despite the prodding I get from my buddies who want me to go back to SCS wheels, and of course install 35" tires ), so I figured I could cut out the overlap and just weld up the spare tire mount. Worked just fine, and saved me another cool 2 lbs.

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Fabbing a New Top Plate for the Jerry Cans
Long time readers may recall that I lost the top plate that secured the Jerry Can's way back at the beginning of The Re-Tour. Luckily, Dan @drr happened to see it fly off on the highway, and picked it up for me, though a little worse for wear.

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Well, I lost it a second time on our most recent trip to Death Valley, and this time Dan wasn't there to pick up after me. So, I needed something that would keep the Jerry Cans from bouncing out of the rack, and figured it was a good time to make it a little lighter as well. Unlike the original plate, I decided that I'd allow myself the convenience of filling (and siphoning out of) the cans without removing the plate. This does mean that someone else could do it if I were away from the truck, but with how tight the lids get, I'm not all that worried. Weight savings was a whopping 2.1 - .44 lbs, for a total of 1.66 lbs!

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Modifying the Battery Box
OK, so Monte @Blackdawg was sure that this thing was going to fall apart on the trail when I initially built it. Of course, it hasn't, and it's a prime candidate for a little trimming. Made of ¾" plywood, it's heavy - and plywood is so structural that I can turn a lot of it into webbing and still have the cabinet be more than strong enough.

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After taking it all apart and cutting out numerous windows, I put everything back together and I'm sure the truck will now be light enough to just float away. Or not. But hey, every 5.4 lbs count!

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Who Needs and OSK When You Can Have a No-SK?
I'll be the first to say - I'm not sure this is the smartest move, but my hope is that history is a good indicator of the future, and that if anything does go wrong, I'll be able to limp to wherever I can get a tow and then use my wallet to replace whatever I'm no longer carrying. Additionally, I want to work with my adventuring pals to figure out how we can each bring some things instead of each bringing every thing. Because really, we don't need 3 axles, and we're unlikely to need 6 LBJs on a trip.

Currently, I carry a whole lot of tools and parts, spread out across different areas in the truck. Let's take stock of what I've been carrying:

1. The OEM screw jack and associated spare tire changing tools, in the Xtracab cubbies.
2. My tool roll - which contains all the tools I use on a regular basis for truck maintenance. Details of the roll covered in Gear Roundup - What I Take With Me On Trips (2018 edition).
3. The actual OSK. This is generally what I consider to be "backup" stuff that hopefully never gets used on a trip. Again, contents in last year's Gear Roundup; I haven't made any significant changes.

Some of this stuff needs to stick around for sure. I think I've used every tool in the tool roll, so that's staying in the truck at all times. The bottle jack (and associated tools) on the other hand - is nice to have in some specific circumstances to use mostly as a press, but I've never used it as such on the trail so it's no longer in the truck. The Hi-Lift is the thing I use to change a tire now. So, that's 11 lbs - pretty good.

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So now for the OSK. There are two components to the kit that I need to consider - first, the contents. It contains a myriad of things that I have used on trips (either for myself or others), so it's not as easy as just dumping the whole thing. The second component of the kit is the military medical case itself. It's big, and while it fits the current contents well, I could save some weight by downsizing.

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After giving it a bunch of thought, here's how I've decided to downsize the OSK. My thinking is that I'll keep the recovery gear and most of the tools to work on the vehicle, but that I won't keep things that I could limp to town without. That means I might not be able to perform an on-trail fix that will keep me going on the trip, but the reality is that I was covering so few of those cases anyway that it probably wasn't worthwhile.

Leave Behind
The theme here is that these are nice to have, but not necessary on the trail. I can wait until I'm in town (or home) to buy/use them.

Tools​

• ½" drive, 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
• Two pry bars (of the set of four)
• Socket adapter and reducer set

Consumables​

• spare fuses
• 5 qt engine oil
• 1 qt Lucas 80W-90 gear oil
• MAF cleaner
• Throttle Body cleaner
• Brake fluid

Parts​

• CV axle
• (2) Lower Ball Joints - one Left w/bolts (43340-39585), one Right w/bolts (43330-39815)
• Rear u-joint (04371-60070)
• Center bearing (37230-35130),

Keep

Recovery​

• 30-foot tow strap

Tools​

• 24" long, ½" drive, breaker bar
• 35mm socket - for removal of the CV axle nut.
• Two pry bars
• Tire plug kit
• 3lb deadblow mallet
• Multimeter

Consumables & Parts​

• WD-40 PTFE Dry Lube
• Blue (242) Loctite
• Bailing wire
• Assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts ranging from M6 to M14, varying lengths
• AC idler pulley (88440-04040)
• Set of Belts (all but timing)

Luckily for me, by removing the parts and fluids, everything fits in a much smaller, lighter, DeWalt Toolbox.

So, here's what is staying at home - and what I'm keeping. The original OSK weighed in at 102 lbs, and the slimed down version is only 39 lbs - a savings of 63 lbs!

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Who Really Needs a Fridge?
We do; the fridge is staying.

But, it's a question worth considering for sure, because the fridge is responsible for more weight than it might initially seem. There's the fridge itself of course, but then there's also the spare (aka "house") Northstar 24F AGM Battery, the battery box, and all the wiring for the dual battery system. That's just the electronics; I also have my poor-man's bed slide, which adds to the weight as well.

I already minimized the battery box, and there's nothing I can do about the wiring for the house battery. I can however work to minimize the weight of the bed slide by taking the same approach I took with the battery box. To the tune of 5.4 lbs.

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What's in the Glovebox?
If you're anything like me, junk gathers in the glove box. Sure, that old registration and insurance card doesn't weigh much, but I'm removing the following items:

• An old Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0" tablet
• An old Google Nexus 7 tablet
• A weird small first aid kit
• Some papers

It's not much, but hey, just like the tire carrier on the rear bumper - every 1.75 lbs counts.

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Bye-bye Parts of the @turbodb fab Bed Rack!
The bed racks I make are - in general - a great compromise between beef and weight. The standard rack weighs in at right around 48 lbs, and is more than strong enough to support over 1000 lbs (not that I'd recommend doing that to your bedsides)! The way I use the rack however, it's overkill - and here's how:

1. I don't need three legs on each side - two would support more than enough weight.
2. I only ever mount the @Cascadia Tents (CVT) RTT to the rack. As such, I don't need all of the webbing on the platform.

A little cutting, grinding, and paint later... the bed rack is 7.75 pounds lighter. Note: I could really lower the rack about 2" as well, which would be good for both center of gravity and aerodynamics. Perhaps a project for later.

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Downsizing the Kitchen
I've already downsized the kitchen a couple of times in the past after I realized that carrying around a full-size Weber Q100 Grill probably wasn't the best idea. Like the OSK, the kitchen has two components to it - the contents and the storage container - another military medical case.

Here's what I'm no longer taking with me... a single pan. After looking through everything in the box, I realized that I use everything else on a regular basis - and weight loss is about being smart, not making life difficult. Additionally, the case is staying for now, because it makes packing the bed so much easier. So, only a 2.3 lb savings from the kitchen.

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So, total weight loss for the Tacoma this winter...at least until I decide some of this stuff is invaluable.

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Trimming the Bumper - 10.91 lbs
Modifying the Battery Box - 5.40 lbs
Downsizing the OSK - 74 lbs
Trimming the Bed Slide - 7.5 lbs
Emptying the Glove Box - 1.75 lbs
Cutting Down the Bed Rack - 7.75 lbs
Reducing the Kitchen - 2.3 lbs​

A whopping 109.61 lbs lost! Not quite the 500 lbs I was going for.

 

Time for some aluminum replacements!

 

I do not want that CV axle back. If you no longer want it, pass it forward to someone who can use it.

 

Good call. I think every kitted out truck and suv should be required to get weighed. I'm sure most people would be surprised by how heavy their truck ends up being.

 

I mean, it would save maybe what - another 100-200 lbs? Not enough. More bang for the buck getting rid of the dual batteries and going Li-Ion.

All good points. Probably some of my photos weren't quite right (and I'm too lazy to go edit, hahahaha).

• I kept the brake fluid, because I agree with you 100%. You can actually see it in the photo I think.
• I also bring chainsaw oil and bar oil (but didn't mention them)

on the other hand...

• Motor oil - is a quart really going to make a difference limping to town? I mean, you'd have to be in a pretty slim band for the 1qt to make a difference. However, I suppose that if everyone had 1qt, then you might have 3-4 and that could make a difference for sure.
• Idler pulley - it's so light, I've got an extra, and I've had 3 go bad, so I take it.

Will do. I always sensed you were just trying to get rid of that thing on me . I do appreciate it though!

 

I think that last bit is something interesting for us to all think about. How can we all reduce weight by splitting that duplicates that we bring when we go solo across all of our trucks.

We probably don't need 4 axles, and I'm sure we all have duplicate tools.

 

Every 1st gen I go off-roading with has needed the LBJ and the MAF cleaner.

 

I believe Bob cut over 400Lbs switching to Al for his armor.

Yes as Ben pointed out.

Even now i only carry 1-2 maybe 3 quarts of various fluids because usually everyone has 1-2 so it works out.

 

This surprised me, and it's not even loaded out.