TRD Pro Suspension is side specific?

If you look on the bottom of the spring perch on each side it says what side its for

 

I think you might be mixing them up. Shouldn’t the one with more pre-load/compression go on the drivers side?

 

As @5nahalf mentioned. (For future interests)

 

thanks you sir!!!

 

I’m gonna change the title to make it easier to find for the next person with this question

 

On the rear is on the reservoir, front its on the spring perch.

 

No sir, why would i need a spacer on my driver’s side then? Taller always goes on driver’s side

 

Well, lookie there, the “LF” is left front and “RF” is right front.

 

because the spacer compresses the spring putting it under more preload which lifts the truck. It’s just like if they were adjustable coil overs, turning the adjuster to compress the spring raises the vehicle.

 

In this case, adding more preload like that isn’t whats happening. The spacer is separate from the strut/coilover assembly. It sits outside of the strut, on top of the top hat, against the body of the vehicle. Hence, both struts on my vehicle are the same height, preload, and rebound/dampening, one is simply spaced down farther than the other, in order to help account for the extra weight on one side of the truck. I hope this helps, and makes sense

Typically, when you compress a coilover, you’re mainly adding more preload. This is a common mistake that people with cars make when they get coilovers on their car for the first time. Instead of adjusting the bottom body of the coilover to change the height, they compress the spring, which adds more preload than is required for optimal ride quality and handling capabilities. Adding more preload like you’re saying, just makes the ride super springing and harsh. It makes the vehicle pop up sharply when it hits a bump

 

For anyone who’s wondering, I labeled the corresponding sides. The LF strut seems to be under slightly more compression than the RF. I did not take these apart, but I’m assuming that either a spacer is used under the spring perch for the LF strut or the LF strut just has a higher spring perch to put a little more pre-load on the spring to counter act the “Tacoma lean” mentioned earlier. The mounts appear the same.

 

This would've probably helped:

 

Yes that would have helped! Lol! Though you definitely don’t have to remove the bolts from the lower ball joints and loosen the lower control arm bolts. I removed the castle nut from the upper ball joint, popped off the stabilizer link from the knuckle, and unbolted the sway bar bushings which allowed me to rotate the entire sway bar 180 degrees out of the way. It was a piece of cake. The camber never was changed by loosening the LCA bolts and was perfectly in spec when I was done.

 

Doing God's work

 

Indeed, there is an easier way to do this procedure. I for one didn't follow it either, lol. I meant it would've cleared the confusion with shock placement.

 

Bookmarked for later. Thanks for the info.