JBA high caster

So I did a thing ..

After about 8 months of being on a 2.5" lift I finally ordered some UCAs. I decided to go with JBAs with high caster because I've only heard good reviews, I'm planning on going to 33s this year and don't get me wrong, they're sexy red. Lol but seriously.

I do all installs myself so I need some advice on time frame after install.
How long can I drive without an alignement? Say I put them in on a Saturday, if I can't get an alignement till the following Saturday due to work and scheduling for the week, will I be okay?

 

It would be best if you could wait until you can get it done right away. When I did mine it pulled hard to the right until I got to the shop. Must have messed with the toe adjustment or something. If you have mud tires a week of that could put some wear on them too.

Also an install tip, just loosen the bolt up, cut the old bolt head off, and put a new bolt and hardware in from the rear so you don't have to spend hours trying to bend the inside of your engine bay enough to get the old one out. I wished I had just bought new bolts by the time I was done.

 

Good info and thanks for the tips. Where do I get s new bolt from?? I've seen videos suggesting reversing the way it goes in so I definitely will do this

 

You can get them from the dealerships but they're a bit expensive. I'll take a look and see what I find.

 

I do believe Wheelers Off Road has them.

 

So I don't know what year you have but here's a link to one fora 2016 3.5l 4x4: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...Arm-Bolt-Upper--Lower/4235535/90105A0095.html

 

I have a 2017 Sport 4wd

damnit $9.78 that seems a little steep... lol thanks for the link

 

Haha no prob. I think my dealer wanted $20 a bolt but it would've been worth it even then to me.

 

Wait so do I need two or just one? Are they both installed facing down towards the rear of the truck?

 

You need 2.

Both sides face the same way, so you'd cut the heads off of both.

 

You'll need 2, one for each side. And yeah put both back in from the rear. The nut will go on the front instead. Grease them before you torque them down.

 

Honestly, the bolts are a pain to remove the first time, once you get them out once, doing it again is really easy. You shouldn’t have to touch your toe for the install so it shouldn’t be far off. If all you’re doing is upper arms, total time is probably 30-40 mins a side.

Just jack up under the lower arm, this will remove the pressure on the upper arm. You can then remove the bolt, pull the arm, out the new ones in, sip the bolt back in and you’re done. Super easy to do. I did the install on mine a couple months ago and just got it aligned today. I went with them SPC arms and I just made sure the little flat nub on the steering knuckle was at 0* and that resulted in mine not being far off. You won’t be able to adjust them so put them in, take it for a spin and see if if feels off, if it does get it aligned ASAP. If if feels fine, you should be ok taking a couple days before getting it done.

 

@Dr. Emmett Brown it's a non issue. Take some channel locks, bend the sheet metal, slide it out, install, replace. Not that big of a deal. I suspect most off the issues come from those who don't want to hurt their trucks or aren't mechanically inclined.


About two years running JBA uca. You'll be very happy with your purchase. I push mine at a reasonable limit and am very happy with them.


Ps, you might want and a second set of hands and a giant flat head as a spreader bar to install them. Getting them on with the bushings can be tight.

 

Exactly! Just get some channel locks on the sheet metal and bend it. It would be harder to cut the bolt than to just slide it out.

 

Yup. Agreed.


Took me all of an hour to do both sides with my brother.

 

Will I need new bumpstops?

 

Eh. Probably not.

If you start feeling guilty about how Hard you wheel, then maybe.

 

UCAs mainly help with droop right?

 

Yes, but if you don’t have extended Kings or similar then I doubt you’ll need new bump stops.

 

I've trimmed my cab mounts and the metal part of my front quarter panels as well as my fender flares, took a sledge hammer to the pinch welds, and have only 1/3 of the plastic left in my front wheel wells. I also have done all necessary work on my truck myself except oil changes because I'm lazy in that respect.

Even so, it was a pain in the arse with my truck because the bolt head hit the sheet metal all the way until the end was out of the arm. The only reason I didn't cut it was that I didn't have a replacement. Took me a good hour per side with a ball peen hammer and channel locks to make enough room for the bolt. If they're only $10 per bolt it makes sense to just get new ones, no?

It could be different truck to truck though obviously so maybe it isn't always in the way so much. Not trying to say you're wrong, just my experience