1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

hey, there are some kick ass flicks from 20 years ago hahaha

 

so how goes the ADD swap.. still doubting it?

 

i'd totally buy those ADD green labels off you if you dont use them... they looked nice n clean

 

Thing about that... I have 2 sets. There was a set I saw on CL and the guy had them listed out at 50 bucks. Figured they would make good spares. Then the package I picked up from a local member and they do look clean.

So as I understand it, Toyota Manual Hub CVs are blue as opposed to the green on the ADD CVs, right?

The one thing which is bugging me with the ADD setup and I'm sure it is simply because I can't wrap my head around how it needs to be done -

Parts (I still need)
A340F from either a 2001 or earlier 4Runner or better still would be a A340F from a 2002 or prior Tacoma
An ADD Diff (4:10), j-shift transfer case (same years as above) - probably the shift assembly as well unless I luck out and find it all still attached to the trans
Possibly the ECU (not the one above the airbag sensor control but the one above the glove box)
Possibly or probably the Transmission Control Relay
Whatever electrical needed for the VAC
Extend VSS harness if a 4Runner trans is used

What I do have currently:
ADD CVs
ADD Knuckles/Spindles/Hubs however the bearings may or may not need to be replaced
ADD Tube with Actuator Gear

My biggest concern is the fail factor. With hacking/improvising an actuator, how probable is the failure for something like that vs. manual hubs. Modding a switch to throw in the vehicle for the actuator - seems the same as if it was the 2-4 selector, just no electronic $$$ actuator from toyota to fail.

 

Actuator failure on the diff is rare. if it does fail, well your stuck 2wd or 4x4 depending on what its in when it fails.. ive got like 4 actuators laying around. one vacuum the rest electronic.. theyre all off vehicles with well over 250k on them. and they all still work. Just make sure the nipple for its breather isnt broken off and run the breather up high to avoid water getting in it.. water will kill it if it gets in that breather

 

Oh yes, forgot to add to the list - the harness or perhaps the parts of the harness. I'm ok with wiring, I'm ok with soldering - have to say though, that is daunting when I think about having to pull the dash and start tracing wires out. The potential to fuxor something - well, with my luck... Now if its just mating up a couple of improvised connection in the engine bay and to the diff/trans, that is different and doable.

 

it should be just adding pins to connectors you already have.. like i said, talk to tyler.

as for solder, dont. Toyota even tells us not to. Get good unsealed crimp thingies and heatshrink. far superior to have a SOLID mechanical crimp than the solder

 

this style butt connector is what i use to join 2 or more wires.. i then add the heat shrink

https://www.zoro.com/grote-butt-connector-uninsulate-16-14-ga-pk100-83-3111/i/G9791111/

 

I'll get with him and see what he thinks. I think he's made it clear though that he wouldn't mess with it and is suggesting manual hubs. I have to feel confident on the connections or it's a red flag for me.

Yeah, I don't solder a lot was just saying its not an issue for me. Did it with some of the metri-pack terminals when I was putting the RTMR together. As for splicing, what you listed - definitely. The only heatshrink I use these days is adhesive lined heatshrink.

I have used these for splices on occasion as well - kind of like the feel for them. Really solid.

$10 Kuject Heat Shrink Solder Seal Wire Connectors Kit 120PCS, Waterproof Butt Connector Heat Shrink Electrical Terminals, Insulated Solderless Wiring Splice Connectors for Marine Automotive Boat Truck

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3

 

how soon are you trying to get all this done.. once the weather clears up i'll try to poke around in my fathers truck to see what its all setup for. but i really do believe all your wiring is going to be subjected to the exterior only and just for the t case sensors and the actuator itself. salvaged harnesses of just buying pigtails and new connectors should be a one day project to make it all look and work well

 

Not it a rush to be honest.

What I think I'm going to do is get this maintenance I've been putting off done, head back in on the alignment since I'm still seeing a bit of uneven tire wear and give a good solid check to the suspension in general. Hearing some funky clunks occasionally both front and back - starting to worry me. I checked torque values on the SPCs, lower shock mount, checked paint marks on my LBJ bolts, ubolts, shackles - checked grease on the shackles and SPCs as well. All came up fine.

Still want to pull the leaf packs and see if I can do anything about the squeaking. Comes and goes. Not the bushings but its where the AAL is sitting on the pack in the front and back since it doesn't have a friction pad. Going to try some of that molykote.

Then that damn ticking noise this morning.

Like I said earlier today - feel like the taco is me. Kind of pissing me off really. Hate that when I think there might be an issue. OCD I guess.

 

Oh trust me shit like that drives me nuts. Surprisingly the 01 never really gave me headaches. And so far the tundra actually has no squeaks or rattles to mention.


The corolla? Silent.

my Avalon? A fucking dash rattle that I can’t find! The dash is cracking! And to top it all off the steering rack is leaking.
And it’s my lowest mile nicest car too

 

Oh and my dads 02 has the dash rattle that is driving us both insane... so when I pull the dash out I’ll be sure to check all the wiring there!

 

Oh geez. That comes and goes on the passenger side. Not too bad but I can pick up on it.

Amount of caster (3.9 | 3.9) they have me at now, I think that could be the clunks I'm getting in the front occasionally when transitioning the driveway or wide turns. Who knows, maybe its the LCA bushings or the cams? Only part of the front that hasn't been replaced. Rack bushings, its all been done.

Oh and the camry... oh man. That thing talk about a work horse. 280k+ and its still going. Has a nasty build up on the trans and sometimes (rarely though) it will struggle with shift points. Still gives a nice puff of white smoke on cold startup but coolant level is fine. Still runs good for the most part.

 

How much caster are you at? Shouldn’t cause any clunks if it’s all dialed in right. I’d be suspect if balljoint issues or the shock mount at the bottom

 

Those LBJs were replaced not that long ago. When I did the OME kit. I think Jul 2018? Toyota LBJs and new bolts. One thing I do remember about them though, the new ones kind of felt loose. I could move them around with little effort. I was under the impression they were supposed to be really tough to move by hand. Had ordered them from Camelback.

Safety part though. Maybe I should just replace them and the bolts again. I guess I could unbolt them, make sure the threads are clean, re-apply blue locker and torque to spec again instead of replacing.

 

I actually was thinking of having them back the caster down to 3.5 | 3.5 , camber back to 0.0 and toe left at 0.0

 

3.9 degrees of caster is pretty excessive.. i think 3.0-3.5 is the goal.. camber looks good..

 

I think you’re doing this the hard way. You absolutely do not need to use a 4x4 ECU, 4WD computer, transmission relay, etc. And you definitely do not need to be messing with the existing wiring in the truck.

The electronic ADD actuator needs a simple relay and a DPDT switch. That’s it. That’s all you need.

 

i mean you can do that if your fine with a setup where you have to use a switch. doing it by wiring it all in will just make it work on the fly without thinking about it