1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

gentlemen, I'm very interested in hearing both of your input on this... (and thanks!)

 

im a man that goes through the little extra effort to make it function like factory. theres simpler ways to make the system work.. i mean you want to go real simple get a vacuum actuated diff and run a switch to a VSV to turn it on and off. thats the simplist way i can think of making an ADD diff work, thats literally just a switch and no relays

 

to determine if its worth it for you to run the wires ultimately comes up to if the dash harness is wired. if it is, thats the hardest part already done. exterior is not a whole lot to wire up. almost everything 4x4 control is interior side except the actual actuator and the transfer case sensors

 

so essentially, its going back to the 2-4 pushbutton selector or perhaps a better way to describe it is the same type of operation just without that pricey electronic actuator.

Computer though. Unless we can rule that out. Speaking of that, I wonder if when I pulled the computer, that messed with all of the settings which caused that rough idle I encountered this morning.

 

im a

did you pull it completely out? its possible. the computer would need to relearn idle. cleaning the IAC helps


the wiring for the tube with a j shift is simple. the relay is saying hey, the t case is in 4x4 which then sends signal to the actuator to lock. no buttons. no fuss

 

theres also the one route i know a few people have gone and it does add a little more interesting abilities to the list. You can run an ADD tube with manual hubs.
and the ADD can technically be ran like factory, or you can set it up as a dumb system with a switch.. no computers involved..

 

Yep, pulled it completely out to get that picture. Could not see the label at all from the top. its a tight fit in there.
See, now that I like the idea of but ultimately we'll need to determine exactly how much wiring.

Now you just lost me there. I need to find docs on that to better visualize it I guess. Guessing more can break as well?

 

the ADD manual hub mess would be pointless unless your unable to find a full manual hub setup. all you'd gain is the ability to unlock the hubs when you want 2lo or are just highway driving. with them locked it would work like a completely normal ADD setup.

 

and technically the ADD tube is stronger in the bearing department. you can also permanently lock the ADD and it'll work like a manual hub tube... theres many options


you just need to get the truck down to me and after a few drinks and a few days we'll have you all set! lol

 

take a look -

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/add-diff-with-manual-hubs.412298/

more specifically,

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

 

ahhh - @BartMaster1234 has been down this path before...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-hubs-with-an-add-front-diff-help.588912/

 

id just ignore the last option. lol thats if hobbled together things or if you wanted the gas mileage gain from unlocking the hubs but wanted on the fly shifting 4x4...

either go full ADD or full manual hub. (but an ADD diff is strong with the presence of the extra bearing- albeit minimally).. And you cannot put an ADD tube on a manual hub diff. but a manual tube can be put on a ADD diff.. its weird

 

Continue this tomorrow. I’ve gotta get some sleep ​

 

good deal, thanks again. Do take a look tomorrow if you get a chance. I think its along the lines of what you were getting at.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/


out.

 

I know about that post. That’s how you can lock them permently to get a 100% manual setup. But you can also leave it fully functional add if you really wanted.

 

good deal. go to bed. lol. im out as well. @BartMaster1234 thanks for your earlier feedback on this whole endeavor as well - appreciate it. until i get this going, going to be lots of questions come up.

 

You’d be the first person on TW or any other Tacoma forum I’ve seen wire up the ADD as it were from the factory using stock wiring. Everyone who does this conversion uses Manual Hubs, the electronic ADD actuator with a relay and switch, or the vacuum ADD actuator with the vacuum accumulator/VSV and relay/switch.

The only reason I would bother with all the wiring was to go for the pushbutton case. Which I have seen people do, but it’s too much hassle.

I still don’t see the huge deal of the manual hubs. People even keep them locked the entire winter season, and all you have to do is pull the shifter in the cab.

 

Wakey Wakey, hands off snakey
Time to get up and get ready for the Niners playoff game tail gate party! I'll see you Bay area snowflakes over there at Levi's for the pregame tailgate game is at 1:30 local PST

 

Now I'm confused. Is that 4:30pm EST here or 10:30am bc of time warping gov. approved time zones. Thank galctic gods for the Tartis.

 

Lol, I believe that is 4:30pm your time. And you're rooting for the good guys, the ones in the red and gold uniforms not the purple uniformed Vikings.
It's the first playoff game ever for most of the team. So we're really anxious to see how they play and respond to the environment/scenario/pressure and crap being their first time. Coach has been to a Superbowl before though. So should keep the boys well grounded. I'm excited.
I should go work, I'm almost done with those floors. But i'mma be lazy, it's cold out and all I need to be happy is one of those big breakfast burritos... and then I want both teams to play to the best of their ability so we can beat them fair and square and they won't have excuses