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Gutting JBL amp+sub: wiring question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacoTuesday!!, Jan 12, 2020.

  1. Jan 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM
    #1
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, gals and doggos,

    Upgrading my audio system on a 2010 double cab with the upgraded stock JBL audio system. While I initially thought the JBL was pretty good for "stock," I've noticed the bass is a bit muddy, imprecise, and overall just kind of underwhelming. Looking to upgrade to a "mid tier" system with amp, subwoofer and box enclosure. Maybe entry level Rockford Fosgate, we'll see. Not the cheap walmart stuff but also nothing too fancy...working with a ~$400-500 budget.

    My question is, if I remove the JBL amp and subwoofer (and replace with aftermarket amp+sub), do I need any special wiring harness connected to my aftermarket Pioneer headunit?

    I know that if I were to retain the JBL and subwoofer, I need to have the Metra Axxess TYTO-01 installed. As far as I'm aware, this harness (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120TYTO01/Axxess-TYTO-01-Wiring-Interface.html) basically tells the amp to turn on and power the factory sub when an aftermarket headunit is installed. Otherwise I think you lose power to the factory amp. Correct me if I'm wrong. If I remove the JBL amp/sub, I can get away without such a harness ($65) and just use a cheaper $10 Toyota to headunit adaptor harness, right?

    Thanks y'all
     
  2. Jan 12, 2020 at 7:14 PM
    #2
    DJSpeed

    DJSpeed Well-Known Member

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    Well the amp powers ir sub and the door speakers. U can go what I did. Remove the whole back side where all the cubbies are. Relocate the amp. Then since u have an aftermarket deck. Just run the remote wire and rca from the subwoofer output behind the stereo to the amp. Of course don't forget to run the power wire and ground to the amp as well
     
  3. Jan 12, 2020 at 7:18 PM
    #3
    DJSpeed

    DJSpeed Well-Known Member

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    The harness that u mention though is used when installing a aftermarket head unit. Which u said u already had. So whoever's installed that pioneer headunit already might have used that.
     
  4. Jan 12, 2020 at 7:56 PM
    #4
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 in Rough Country Lift, Body Armor Front and Rear Steel Bumpers, Spare Swingarm, Smittybuilt X2O Winch, ProComp rims on 35"s, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Tuff Country UCA's, Wheeler's Off-Road multiple leaf add-a-leafs, BlackOak LED fogs, BlackOak LED backup lights, Rough Country curved light bar, Yakima Roof Racks, Morimoto Projector Headlight conversion with Halos, smoked tail lights, Grill Raptor lights, Custom Grill with Tacoma lettering, Studded Fender Flares, Bedrail quickgrips, Diamondback bed topper, VIAIR onboard air, Train horn, Viper remote start alarm system, Katskinz leather interior, 2x12” JBL subs, and more
    Gotcha. Thanks for the insight. I didn't realize the JBL amp powers the door speakers too.

    Yeah I just got the pioneer headunit and it's not wired up yet, so I'm wondering if the TYTO-01 harness is a must or if there's any way around it. $65 for a harness is $ that could be going towards a good amp/sub. But upgrading from the JBL seems like more of a PITA than if one were just upgrading from the base stock haha
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2020
  5. Jan 12, 2020 at 7:59 PM
    #5
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That seems like a good alternative but if you run an RCA and remote wire from the headunit then you lose the subwoofer RCA output on your headunit for use with another amp/sub, no?
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2020
  6. Jan 13, 2020 at 1:40 AM
    #6
    DJSpeed

    DJSpeed Well-Known Member

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    in my opinion what personally would do with your setup.

    -use the harness to use ur aftermarket head unit with the jbl factory amp.
    -remove the back of the rear seat to make room for the new setup of sub and box and amp
    -on the back of the pioneer headunit there should be 3 different sets of rca outputs. front. rear. sub
    -route sub output from back of headunit to new amplifier which will power the subs along with the remote wire.


    now..... if you don't want to buy the harness to use the existing jbl factory setup. you would end up spending more money and time cause then now you would need a 4 channel amp. then after that you would need 2 6x9 speakers to replace the fronts. then 6 1/2 speakers to replace the rears. and then run wires for each of those speakers to the amp.

    at the end of the day u would be spending more money but would have a way more better setup. choose and pick wisely. lol
     
    TacoTuesday!![OP] likes this.
  7. Jan 13, 2020 at 5:30 AM
    #7
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    If your HU only comes with one RCA output, you can add a Y-adapter to add another amp. Not sure what kind of bass you are seeking but when I replaced my carpet with vinyl flooring, I went ahead and installed kilmat sound deadening on the floor and back wall. I also replaced the factory sub with this pioneer and it made quite a bit an improvement in overall sound. (I have a kenwood aftermarket HU). Although it doesn't look it but I believe the factory amp is rated at 440 watts. PIONEER TS-SW2002D2 600 WATTS 8" DUAL 2 OHM

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 13, 2020 at 7:15 AM
    #8
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha, I think I understand what you mean that the door speakers need to be powered by a an amp, whether the factory amp or a standalone 4 channel amp. Could I use the aftermarket headunit to power the door speakers instead?
     
  9. Jan 13, 2020 at 7:34 AM
    #9
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Here's a pic of my aftermarket headunit. Apparently has RCA outputs for 4 door speakers and sub

    That sounds like a good budget option with the pioneer 8" swap. I think I will be removing the JBL subwoofer enclosure entirely though to make room for a box in its place

    20200113_102217.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2020
  10. Jan 13, 2020 at 7:45 AM
    #10
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    My opinion:

    The system is junk as a whole. Scrap it all, because you will regret it if you don't. Door speakers, subwoofer, headunit and amplifier assembly. Run all new RCAs for both the door speakers and the subwoofer. Use two new amplifiers, one four channel for the speakers and tweeters, and a singular channel amp for the subwoofer. The only wiring you will re-use as part of the JBL is the factory remote, filtered grounds and maybe the power wire for the 4 channel amp.

    You will need need the Metra or PAC unit which turns retains the factory wiring for the headunit, but you will clip the speaker speaker box at the main white harness.
    It should be two wires if I remember correctly. The reason for this is that you are running RCAs now so there is no need for the JBLs two wire "stereo" signal (which sucks for sound quality in comparison to RCA hook ups).

    Headunit, subwoofer and speaker setup is your choice but there is a very miniscule amount of the JBL system you will and should keep. The system is simply not worth a damn, like at all.
     
  11. Jan 13, 2020 at 8:02 AM
    #11
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thx for the input! I agree, this is far and away the best option. The whole JBL system underperforms for being a "premium" $1000 upgrade.

    Why would I need the Metra TYTO-01 (which retains JBL amp wiring) if I scrap it all? Would a simpler adaptor harness like this one be sufficient?

    Screenshot_20200113-110002_Amazon Shopping.jpg
     
    12TRDTacoma[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:35 AM
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    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    So your HU has 3 RCA outputs if you wanted to install up to 3 individual amps(front/rear/Sub amp). In reality, you can just find a bridgeable 4 channel amp and run the whole system and sub. Then you will just use only one RCA output. If you want to expand and run 2 amps, then you would run a small amp for the front speakers/doors and a bridgeable amp to run the rear doors and sub. You also add a camera to your system with the video RCA inputs. I have front and rear cams on my truck. s for the harness, I highly recommend calling Crutchfield to confirm what you really need that will interface with your HU, steering wheel controls, and OEM connector. I don't know if that scosche connector T02B is compatible with a JBL system.
     
  13. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:46 AM
    #13
    12TRDTacoma

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    You would need the adapter because you still want to use the amp turn on from the JBL wiring, as well as the power to the headunit, potentially the power to the amp and definitely the filtered grounds for the speaker 4 channel amp.

    Most of the wiring isn't worth a damn but some of it is still relevant. Only the powers and grounds but it is in your better interest to use the JBL adapter for it instead of trying to reinvent the wheel entirely.

    You need to rip out the fuse and filter box from it because you will not be using the stereo connections.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2020
  14. Jan 13, 2020 at 6:46 PM
    #14
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah...I just don't see how the Metra TYTO adaptor is worth it for the sake of keeping the amp turn on wire, some grounds, and amp power wire (of questionable gauge specs). Especially if deleting the entire rest of the JBL system. But maybe I'm missing something and it's just to make life a little easier / save time :)

    What exactly does the PAC unit do?
     
  15. Jan 13, 2020 at 7:28 PM
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    12TRDTacoma

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    You would be getting it just to save a little time. Why run new wiring if the wiring is already available and it can save you some time? That's just the way I saw it.

    Besides, those filtered grounds alone will be worth their weight in gold once you drive around and aren't listening to the small buzzing while the radio is on that you otherwise would hear without them.
     
  16. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:26 PM
    #16
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Makes a lot of sense! Thanks
     
  17. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:30 PM
    #17
    DJSpeed

    DJSpeed Well-Known Member

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    Check maestro to see if your deck is compatible. You can have additional features using that instead of a harness
     
  18. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:32 PM
    #18
    TacoTuesday!!

    TacoTuesday!! [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep the idatalink is compatible but is relatively expensive and I don't make much use of steering wheel controls anyway :)
     
  19. Jan 13, 2020 at 9:34 PM
    #19
    DJSpeed

    DJSpeed Well-Known Member

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    Well it not so much the steering controls. I was thinking more like the system features. Engine monitoring. Tire monitor. Cel access. So forth
     

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