painting parts????

ok im gonna color match my mirror door handle tailgate handle and my grill surroundings... So here is the thing how many can of paint do i need of each to spray all of them????also should i get a light colored primer after i spray on the adhesion promoter or i dont need it????

adhesion promoter
paint
clear


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__99984780-P_N3278J_T|GRP2050___

 

help???

 

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Hey bro. I don't think you're getting any replies, because it's impossible to colour-match ANY vehicle's paint with spray-bomb rattle cans from autozone. Nobody wants to lead you the wrong way.

If you want these parts properly colour matched, take your truck to a body shop, and they can do it for you. Rattle cans aren't going to get you close to what you're looking for.

If you really want to do it yourself, you can eliminate the adhesion promoter from your list. Just be sure to sand the surfaces you're about to paint with some fine sandpaper (800 grit should be fine) and then spray away. Base coat first, then clear. Just use light coats, so you don't put a run in anything.

Spraycan clear dries VERY fast, so keep it out of direct sunlight, as the heat will be too much for it, and it will cause a 'foggy' finish.

Good luck.

 

This is what I used on the tail gate:

 

OP, do a test with the duplicolor first. Some people have had some luck with matching their truck depending on the color, for me it was way off (superwhite), especially for something like a door handle that's right next to the truck paint. For the door handles I'd order color matched ones from the factory since they get used a lot. You won't get the same durability out of a rattle can.

I ordered some color match from paintscratch.com, it's expensive but supposedly a better quality paint plus they have a policy for returns if it doesn't match (my first batch didn't match and they sent me another batch free of charge, didn't even make me mail the old stuff back).

I've heard mixed reviews on adhesion promoter, I've always just primed and painted. If you prep it correctly (sand with high grit paper or wet sand, clean thoroughly, wipe down with alcohol and lint free rag), you shouldn't have any issue. If you use the adhesion promoter, no need to prime although it couldn't hurt.

You may have some issues finding a body shop to paint existing plastic parts that weren't intended to be painted. Some shops are weird with their policies.

I hope some of this helps.

 

ok i wanted to know how many can i will need

 

3 cans should do it depending on how many coats you do. Same with the clear. Also, plan on an extra can if you paint the parts individually. If you lay all the parts out, prepped and ready to go, you'll use less paint (at least that's the case when I paint).

 

3 cans of each right???

 

Correct, again, depending on how heavy and how many coats. 3 cans of each should give you more than enough coverage with multiple coats of color and clear.

 

I color matched my skid plate with one can of primer, base and one can of clear. The match is pretty good but you can only get a rattle can paint job from a rattle can so you might not be happy with the finish. If your good with a rattle can go for it if not I would take it to a body shop it wouldn't cost that much probably under $75 bucks.

 

if your planning on buying that much paint call around to some body shops and get some quotes you would be surprised how cheap it is to have them just shot a part just do the prep work yourself.

 

maybe

 

i seen some and they used the same spray can and came out good.

 

just got quoted 980???/ is that a lot

 

is this site any good ???


http://www.gametip.us/

 

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Go get a couple cans from paintscratch.com or autotouchup.com.. whatever they are. They ship to hawaii and they beat the ever-living crap out of duplicolor for paint matching.

Buy a new grill. Adhesion promoter won't do jack crap to chrome. Its a process that you can't do in your garage.. not for something like the grill. Every rock will chip the paint and show chrome. Its not a rattle can job. Go to ebay, buy a painted grill, if not your color, paint that. Not the chrome.
To paint chrome.. if you insist, stop by napa/redline in pearl city, the paint store. (NOT AIEA by jelly's). The guys there can get you what you need, but you'll probably have to put up with them sucking their teeth a lot and saying "so why do you want to do that?". I'll just leave you with that. They're more experienced than me.

For the rest of the parts, Still, no adhesion promoter. No need, I don't think. I never use the stuff. Primer is adhesion promoter. Take them off the truck, and follow directions on the paint cans. If you get the primer and 'clear coat' from paint scratch you'll be getting duplicator primer and clear... but its about the same price as local.. so go ahead.
You'll probably be lightly sanding the parts with 400. LIGHTLY.. if you can see the scratches when you're done sanding, you'll see them when you're done painting. We use high solids primer to cover these in automotive painting, you won't be so check your work before painting.

Don't even come close to imagining that because you sanded a bit on the outside that you sanded off any contaminates. You'll also need at least a prep-sol. "grease and wax remover". If you still get fisheyes, try an organic solvent.. isopropyl alcohol. Rubbing is ok, but you'll want to wipe it with prep-sol if you use drug store alcohol vs painters. Cigarette smoke is good at causing fish-eyes.

follow instructions. To include well ventilated area and if at all possible a niosh VOC rated mask (a dust mask does NOTHING, maybe worse, because you think it works and breathe deeply). Light coats.. Metallic gets a mist coat at the end to even out the metal flake. Start with a medium dry coat and finish with a medium wet coat, keeping a wet edge on your passes. 2-3 coats tops. Clear likes to be put on wet. It may look milky at first but it will dry clear and unfortunately, lightly satin. You'll have to get a buffer if you want to make it shiny out of a rattle can. Give it a good couple weeks to be hard before buffing.

Or just bring it up to Kuroda in waipio. 980 is high, but painting chrome sucks. Its also only high if its a crappy shop. Someplace that does prep work outside or in a filthy garage, that's high. Kuroda, its fine. And they'll stand by their work. I would also guess that includes removing and installing all those parts. The guys down at redline in pearl city might also be able to paint those parts for you, if you strike em as the kind of guy that they want to do a favor/work for. They can always use an extra buck or 2, they're dealers, not painters, but they're also painters when they want to be. You know how it goes.
I paint, so I don't ask, but, you know, they're a friend of a friend and I know they do stuff for guys that have the proper introduction and rub em the right way.

Bringing the parts to a shop in a bag would make it a bit cheaper. Probably 1.5 hours at 80-125 bucks an hour to put those things on and off.

 

thanks man, but it not chrome all the parts are plastic and what the process with the clear??? 3 heavy wet coats right>>