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Easiest Raptor Wiring?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by TRDstingray, Nov 22, 2019.

  1. Nov 25, 2019 at 4:31 PM
    #41
    Tullie D

    Tullie D Well-Known Member

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  2. Nov 26, 2019 at 4:55 PM
    #42
    TRDstingray

    TRDstingray [OP] Active Member

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    Which fuse under the hood would be the led running lights?
     
  3. Nov 26, 2019 at 6:14 PM
    #43
    Vlady

    Vlady Well-Known Member

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    Running lights wired via a relay.
     
  4. Nov 26, 2019 at 7:58 PM
    #44
    Mr. Excitement

    Mr. Excitement Well-Known Member

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    I used the daytime running light fuse. Bottom of the panel. I tried the inj fuse, but the lights stayed on when the truck was off. I didn’t feel like booking them up to a fuel injector fuse even though it had a separate fuse. Just seemed risky. I’ll try to find a fuse that is on with the ignition and light back off of that
     
  5. Nov 26, 2019 at 8:40 PM
    #45
    Vlady

    Vlady Well-Known Member

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    People did look for that magic fuse. There is none. Want with running light, splice or tap into th be relay circuit.
    Want with headlights, insert add a fuse to left or right headlight slot.
     
  6. Nov 26, 2019 at 10:28 PM
    #46
    Mr. Excitement

    Mr. Excitement Well-Known Member

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    I actually went and piggy backed to the 10amp inj fuse and it seems to be working fine. Ran the wiring through the main power cord port. It’s fused separately so hopefully it’s fine. If I want to add more I’ll probably add another sub fuse panel once I read up some more. This guy has a nice video. Just need to read up some more. https://youtu.be/BvFHA1xY10w
     
    Tullie D likes this.
  7. Nov 27, 2019 at 8:43 AM
    #47
    Vlady

    Vlady Well-Known Member

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    Lights on w/engine on, correct?
     
  8. Nov 27, 2019 at 8:48 AM
    #48
    Mr. Excitement

    Mr. Excitement Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. So far so good. I crimped some bullet connectors so I can quickly disconnect without taking the fuse box top off. Probably not necessary, but eh.
     
  9. Jan 13, 2020 at 11:23 AM
    #49
    hellfire0480

    hellfire0480 Well-Known Member

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    Instead of creating a new thread on wiring up raptor lights. Does anyone see an issue with wiring up an H11 plug extension for the fog lights and pulling power from that circuit to power the grille lights? I've changed out the fogs to LED so would imagine there is less current flowing through than the stock halogens. I don't really want to do an add-a-fuse and tap into DRL. I could add a small fuse in-line after the fog circuit to protect that. Or should I run a relay using the fogs as a trigger?
     
  10. Jan 13, 2020 at 11:33 AM
    #50
    Tullie D

    Tullie D Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember the exact numbers offhand, but my Raptor style grill lights draw way less than 1 amp. Your fog light H11 tap idea would work fine, except for having to have the fog lights on to have the Raptor style lights on.
     
    hellfire0480[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Jan 13, 2020 at 11:44 AM
    #51
    tacoWithstickyrice

    tacoWithstickyrice Well-Known Member

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  12. Jan 13, 2020 at 12:40 PM
    #52
    hellfire0480

    hellfire0480 Well-Known Member

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    I'm open for other suggestions but I don't want to do the add a fuse and I don't want to have to splice into both legs of the drl to have them on all the time. I usually have the fogs on so this is the solution I have at the moment
     
  13. Jan 13, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #53
    hellfire0480

    hellfire0480 Well-Known Member

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    Are you saying what you linked is the connectors that could interface with the stock DRL connectors? If so then that is the way that I will go. I don't care about spending an extra 20 bucks or so to keep it clean and reversible.
     
  14. Jan 13, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #54
    tacoWithstickyrice

    tacoWithstickyrice Well-Known Member

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    Yup, works great.

    20191002_203030.jpg
     
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  15. Jan 13, 2020 at 2:22 PM
    #55
    hellfire0480

    hellfire0480 Well-Known Member

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    What are you using the 40 amp relay for in this circuit?
     
  16. Jan 13, 2020 at 2:29 PM
    #56
    tacoWithstickyrice

    tacoWithstickyrice Well-Known Member

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    hellfire0480[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jan 13, 2020 at 2:33 PM
    #57
    hellfire0480

    hellfire0480 Well-Known Member

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    oh gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.
     
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  18. Jan 18, 2021 at 1:42 PM
    #58
    DruncanIdaho

    DruncanIdaho Well-Known Member

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    Oh man, this is exactly what I had in my head. The linked connectors have a few options; which did you use? Can you do a little step-by-step writeup (feel free to PM if you don't feel like making a whole post)? Thanks!!
     
  19. Jan 18, 2021 at 2:09 PM
    #59
    tacoWithstickyrice

    tacoWithstickyrice Well-Known Member

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    I don't have raptor lights, I used the PNP harness for something else. I chose the 18-16 AWG (090II-PIN2) although you might be able to get away with the smaller one and 090II-SL1 for the insulation size. As for wiring up your raptor lights not sure how you want to run them but I believe the power wires are the pink and green? I cannot remember the colors. One wire is powered when you have DRL on and Parking brake off and the other wire (pink?) is powered when you have your headlights on. If you want to go the relay route here is a little diagram, not sure if it is correct but this is how I would've wired it up and have for multiple other lights on my truck. You will need a crimping tool of some sort for the terminals/pins on the connector.

    EDIT: Re-did the diagram to include diodes:
    raptor light harness.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2021
    DruncanIdaho[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Jan 18, 2021 at 2:18 PM
    #60
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    Pink is Tail/Parking, Green DRL's.
    Joining the wires you'll feed the Tail circuit when DRL's are ON.
    And when Low beams are ON -DRL (bright are OFF, and powered by Tail (dim), but since they are tied in your drawing DRL will have a dual input. (not good for the led array.)
     

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