Improving the URD Fuel Pump Kit

So the Walbro would still make sense if you have a supercharger and use a boost reference setup?

 

Either one should work, the Walbro just flows better at higher pressure. Deatschwerks has a handy table to see how pressure changes the flow performance.
https://www.deatschwerks.com/blog/fuel-pump-flow-characterization

 

Yeah I kinda didn’t finish my thought before posting that...

 

Naw the bed will be heavy..


Since i got a camper ect:/

 

good to know! thanks for all of the info man!

 

Have the urd supercharger on my 2017 4runner... Think this fuel pump issue just hit me...

 

So it took another 9 months for the hose to split again, and this time i was ready with appropriate fuel tube. You can see the minor crack on the fuel line starting up (i began to suddenly get the hard start problem).

 

All good now I take it?

I still need to change some fittings on mine and add this hose. As well as the Holly hydramat.

 

So far so good, buts only been a few days. I hope this is thee permanent solution, as i dont think im ripping the hose by going to tight on the clamp. I have the DW pump, so im looking at previous posts about the check valve add in

 

I'm at a 175000 miles, 07 MY, but just barely getting broken in.. did anybody replace both tubes or just the fuel pump assembly hose? Is the tube fairly durable that I wouldn't have to worry about the other corrugated hose?

 

I replaced both, but only bc i fcked up and cut the return hose instead of the high pressure lol. I used the racetronix hose for the high pressure and then used the URD rubber fuel tubing to make another return line

 

Just finished the wiring today but I think I need to use butt connectors for longevity. Did anyone use heat shrink with any success or do I need fancy raychem dr-25? Any suggestions

 

Regular heat shrink, if memory recalls correctly, has failed to last.

 

Thanks. Changing it out today to those heat shrink butt connectors, dense plastic I think.. we'll see what the electronics store says.

 

When dealing with fuel you need to make sure whatever you're using is fuel resistant. McMaster has fuel resistant shrink tubing. https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-shrink-tubing/=ae2e93ca1f924877b453c3acc0051115k5x89eb4

 

Several brands will list as fuel/oil/solvent resistant, but that doesn't actually confirm fuel submersible. A good example is that you can't use standard fuel injection hose in the in the tank for the feed line or there's certain degradation and compromise. I've narrowed it down to two:
-nylon (which is highly resistant against fuel and used on the stock corrugated in-tank tubes) or
-heat shrink insulated connector that looks like some poly type and has a inner adhesive lining. It seemed to hold uniform while sitting in gasoline for the past few hours... if only I could see in the future.

 

Thanks for your help. Just went with nylon insulated, the obvious choice and most resistant. Thought the wiring needed to be heatshrunk for safety but not so. It's just to keep them from shorting out. I didn't notice any change in the heat shrink submerged in gas but the insulated heat shrink connector has a liner that helps seal the moisture away. Well the gas dried it up so that was no good. I'd test any and all heatshrink. Thank you OP for sharing the fuel tube!

 

How many miles were on the old pump, and noticed any seat of the pants improvements yet?

 

When I got the car, it was at 125. I've put about 50k. I have no reason to suspect it has been changed so my thought is that it is the original. The filter sock didn't look terrible. I've heard that the feeling of a new pump was like driving a new car but haven't noticed lol. I'll try to hammer it today. Installed a aeromotive pump in anticipation of a Maggie s/c.

 

I looked all over for a thread with info on the check valve but haven't found any. Want to pick up a DW FP but don't want to worry about start up issues.