DASAITA ANDROID 9.0 UNIT WITH APPLE CARPLAY WIRELESS AND OEM AUDIO PLUS

same question...Anyone wire up a sub to this headunit?

 

I don't think anyone has. Best way I can think to figure which they are is plug in and turn on the radio. Then go to the equalizer and turn the sub volume up. Keep on until you find the correct pair.

 

Mine is hooked to a jl amp. There is a sub output but it’s mono. I believe it is the green rca.

 

I ended up using the L and R rear channels and had to set the crossover to filter out the high frequency. Messed up my plan to have a dedicated setting for sub like my pioneer eq. Either way, it’s a solution.

For power, I had to tap into a 12v line on the harness. Here’s photos of how the 4runner folks on Facebook have it set up. Not elegant and a bit surprising considering the cheapest pioneer units have a remote and sub RCA out



I soldered the ones I needed but a T tap would work too.

 

These headunits have so many plugs in the rear you’d expect it have that sub out rca hook up.thank you for the reply and pictures!

 

Got my new dasaita px6 max6 installed mostly tonight. Waiting on the 3d printed brackets.

Seems to work fairly well with the exception of:
1) can hear buzz/whine from the speakers when no audio is playing and the volume is anything but 0. I did double check my grounding and it looks solid. Used points suggested in this thread. Anyone have any other tips when it comes this?

2) in the settings I can't choose a fuel economy display in the in dash small display other than km/l or liters/100 km. Any tips there? I might try loading Malay mod and see if that software is a little more refined.

I did find that the carlinke carplay adapter seems to work. If it's plugged into the OEM outlet then it will supercede the easyconnection software that comes with my unit. I did not as far as I know get the 30 dollar "carplay chip"... But my "factory settings" have an option for carplay and it was set to yes... I wonder if that is the "carplay chip" haha

 

For the units, I think I could only get it to work if I changed it in the OEM display in the gauges.

 

Eh there are worse compromises. Didn't see that option but I likely glanced over it. Thanks for the tip!

 

Anyone else have hit or miss with carplay via Zlink? Sometimes it connects within seconds, and other times it stays trying to connect without actually connecting.

 

Yes. I occasionally have to disconnect BT on my iPhone and then reconnect. I haven't figured out why.

 

I don't think I was clear. Make the change in the display that's in between the speedo and tach. I'm not 100% sure that's the fix, but I do know at one point the head unit changed everything to metric and I had to change it back on the other display.

 

Ah! Ok thanks for that clarification. I would've been very confused later when I went out to try to fix it.

 

I thought maybe that was the case, though I think I only really tested it once. Seems odd that BT connectivity, would affect the Wifi connection it establishes. I seem to swap between them easily when it is connected. Just miffed by the process, wish it was just quick/smooth everytime.

 

For any wireless CarPlay connection a BT connection must be established first. After that hand shake, it switches to WiFi. It's no different than the USB WiFi dongle, Kenwood, Alpine, etc.

 

Weird then cause Ive never done any kind of BT pairing with ZLink, only the wifi connection. Im assuming it doesnt piggyback off the Dasaita existing connection? But if it did Im already connected. My head hurts haha

 

I’ve probably missed this answer somewhere along the way, but do you still have access to the vehicle settings like lock functions, light timers, etc?

 

Anyone find any solutions for a hiss/static noise that comes through the speakers when no audio and volume is anything but 0? It seems to do it more when scanning for bluetooth devices. I do have it grounded at the suggested ground points, but maybe it shouldn't be? The harness has a ground on it to the factory harness and the factory harness on my JBL premium system should run to the amp that would have its own ground point. Maybe the hiss/static is a ground loop from multiple ground points far away on the vehicle? I'm not an electronics or car audio expert so this is speculation on my part from some reading across the web. Any help or thoughts (even if its just confirming that others have this same issue) would be greatly appreciated!

 

I've tried to debug this noise and have noted that it varies depending on if there are connections being made (e.g. BT or WiFi connections). I've also had custom PC builds make similar noise based on power load (e.g. WiFi card on or off). I suspect this is noise coming from a power supply unit or adapter within the stereo. I also doubt it's due to poor grounding. The only way to really know is to open it up and dig deeper. I took the easy route and turned the volume up instead. Signal to noise ratio is better with the volume dialed to 11.

 

Do you mean turning the volume up through the standard interface (like if you were turning up the radio kind of thing) or through one of the factory menus/amplifier/equalizer menu?

 

Just turn up the normal volume loud enough so you can't hear the noise coming from the electronics.