El Honcho - 1st Gen Taco build

Nice!

 

I guess there isn't as much traffic in the LT thread than there was years ago... anyways. For anyone this may help I will continue to post. I re-did the pinion angle. I wasn't completely sure/happy with the pinion angle at full bump. After looking through a bunch of 1st gen Tacoma builds and pictures I realized that I was pry off a few degrees. I ended up angling the pinion down a few degrees and it's definitely better and exactly where it needs to be.



No other progress on shock mounts. I ditched the old design on the lowers after getting two cut out but not really liking the fitment. I have 4 new designs traced on the flat bar. Bought 6' of DOM 1.5" .095 to build my little shocks towers. Hopefully I can get a majority of this wrapped up in the next week.

Maybe doubtful if I get a response in time but do I really need to install a manual proportioning valve or can I just delete the LSPV and hook extended line up directly to the rear drums?

 

Subd
Nice write up. I just did my f67 n 9" shackles.

 

[QUOTE="j4roe, post: No other progress on shock mounts. I ditched the old design on the lowers after getting two cut out but not really liking the fitment. I have 4 new designs traced on the flat bar. Bought 6' of DOM 1.5" .095 to build my little shocks towers. Hopefully I can get a majority of this wrapped up in the next week.

Maybe doubtful if I get a response in time but do I really need to install a manual proportioning valve or can I just delete the LSPV and hook extended line up directly to the rear drums?[/QUOTE]

For my shock mounts I went with 1 3/4 .120 wall. Thicker tube for more stronger mounts. .120 wall tube for critical parts like cage n suspension parts. If you run the shocks outside the frame you will need wheel spacers. I got some 14" billstien smoothies that are kinda close to the tire. I had to cut the fender well out to mount it.

As for the LSPV
I got this from another lt 5 lug on here.

 

For my shock mounts I went with 1 3/4 .120 wall. Thicker tube for more stronger mounts. .120 wall tube for critical parts like cage n suspension parts. If you run the shocks outside the frame you will need wheel spacers. I got some 14" billstien smoothies that are kinda close to the tire. I had to cut the fender well out to mount it.

As for the LSPV
I got this from another lt 5 lug on here.[/QUOTE]

I could have gotten .120 wall but personally I doubt it would need it. I think the 095 is plenty for what I need it to do. Not building a whole bed cage. We'll see I guess.

Yea, I have seen that post as well. My question rather, is it necessary? I've read so many 1st gen LT threads and posts over the last 10 years and I don't recall one person mentioning it until I saw this article from off road magazine where they talk about replacing it. I also saw CR250Jumper JD did a manual Willwood on his. I've also read other posts that guys talk about not needing it if you have 33 or larger tires. That the pressure isn't high enough to lock up the brakes with that large of a tire... It's $35 if I need to do it. I think I'm going to just install an extended brake line to the rear drums and drive it and see what happens. If the rear locks up then I will install. If not then Im saving $35. I just figured if everyone was doing it then you would read it in their threads. I've read a million posts about LT Tacomas over the last 10 years and I've come across maybe 2 that even mention it being potentially a problem if you don't do the manual valve. I cut LSPV rod in half to get it out of my way so it's definitely coming off regardless.

Thanks for the reply.

I have 1.5 spacers. Figured I'd start there because I thought the 2" may allow the tire to tear up my 3" bedsides instead of stuffing the tires up inside of them. If 1.5 doesn't give me enough space then I will sell these and go to a 2".

How do you like your F67 setup?

I just hope these F55 don't sag too much. I just have stock bed with one spare. Hopefully because no weight they will hold up. They appear to have good arch. Guy I bought them from had them on a early 90's Toyota truck that was not a prerunner or desert vehicle. Just general off roading he said. Guy was older so Im taking his word for it. He said they were on his truck for a year and then sat outside for a year which is pry why I got them so cheap because nobody else would buy them because of surface rust. In Phoenix, surface rust is nothing. It comes right off.

 

I used .095 for my spare tire carrier. I plan to use 1 3/4 .095 and 1.5 .095 n .120 on the non critical points just to save weight. Other then that I want my cage strong as possible n close enough to SCORE/BITD rules.

I cut my LSPV rod off right at the frame for the time being. I've read mixed reviews about the manual 1. I'll be doing that mod eventually just so I can get rid of the big valve in the rear. So far around town driving/breaking is fine.

My f67 are brand new. Haven't seen any dirt yet so I can't say how they are. They are a little stiff but they are new n need to be used to soften up. I'm using 1.5" spacers on the back with stock bed. My tires don't stick out too far and if I do stuff the tire into the bedside then I'll get fiberglass.

 

Nice, so you're driving without the manual valve. I didn't think it would be required. I'm running 35x12.5x17 and the truck's brakes have never been anything to write home about. Figured I'd try before I spend more money. My GF is already bitching about all the little things that are starting to add up.

For the LSPV did you leave the nut and assembly connected to the axle? I figure it's cool to remove it completely now and the entire LSPV itself up above mounted to the frame? I have to find the LSPV delete threads on Pirate to remember which lines go in the can and which line connects directly to the extended line for the rear.

Getting down into the 30's at night in Phoenix right now so waiting for it to warm up a little before I take my ass out there. Going to put the wheel and glass on and see how she looks stuffed. Then start cutting holes in the bed and doing tube and lower shocks mounts.

 

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project589.html

 

Fun stuff!
You might consider changing the rear shackle mount at some point. I have a 96 Lt with F67 and 12" shackle mounted above the frame. This would put a 9" shackle mount in the middle of the frame.

The truck came with F55 and wasn't to my liking height wise. Most of the trails I like require more lift than the F55, you could still do alot with F55 tho.
For you right now, the low mount will raise your back end to a acceptable level (imo). This isn't bad until you swap to F67, then you will be a little jacked.

Otherwise looks good, keep fabbing.

 

I agree with mounting the shackles thru the frame. 9" shackles below gives too much lift and makes it super stink bug.

IMO if you box the frame then cut holes to mount them, it will be stronger. Being able to weld 360 around the bushing instead of a gusset above or below. And if a weld were to fail, the mount isn't going to punch a hole thru the bed.

 

The reason I went with a 9" shackle is because I wasn't going to run a 16" shock. I figured the 9" shackle below the frame was easier and more suited for the 14" shocks. I was also worried about how the truck sat. I didn't want any bro lean. Through the rail seemed like more work and more involved of a process. This is the first time that I've ever done anything this serious to my truck all from scratch. The from Solo kit bolts right it OBV. That was easy. Someone else did all the thinking for you. The thinking part is what gets in the way of 50% of the population that wants to do something like this. That's why local fab shops exist. To be honest, I'm poor. So paying someone to fab everything up and install this on the truck was out of the question. Secondly, I eventually would like to do this as a hobby or profession at some point and the only way you learn is by doing. I don't have a mentor. I don't have anyone that is over here helping me, advising me through the process. I have read these forums for 12 years anticipating the day that I would have LT. Problem is, I have too many other hobbies that take money as well LOL. Anyways, day has come and the only knowledge I have is what I have acquired and deciphered reading through posts and trying to understand and comprehend. I learned that the 52.5 isn't the end all be all. Kris I think his name is, the guy that built the 7100 Tax Payer Funded Racing Taco. His writing and posting from that epic thread in 2010 on Ttora I believe is what made me understand that 52.5 is a suggestion and by no means should you just go out there and throw the setup on at that without doing other measurements. IMO after doing the work. The only thing you need to do is find the difference between the two leafs (stock vs 61.5) center pin to eye hanger distance. Unless my measurements were off and this is another thing that you will see discrepancies with reading through posts is where to place the leaf hanger. I calculated that the new leafs were 4" longer from center pin to hanger eye. If you look at some other's posts, everyone's hanger eye placement is different. The next that I kept reading was to do the same for the distance from center pin to shackle eye. I think this step is irrelevant. Once you know your front eye position you just measure back 52.5 or whatever your number is and that's where shackle hanger goes. If I would have done it the way that I read, the magic number was 54". The Total Chaos equation that was posted somewhere else on this forum and was referenced by a local guy that did an F67 pack on his Taco was what I used to get MN. My MN was 53.5". From reading I knew that a larger number would mean more lift and softer spring rate and vise versa. So I opted for the 53.5" distance as it was closed to the 52.5 MN.

I figure that when I can afford to get some bypasses for the back I will then switch to a 12" shackle above the frame. If the truck is sitting too high I may have to sack up and go through the frame with the nine inch. I have a Poker Run in Rocky Point, Mexico the day after the super bowl so this needs to be wrapped up shortly.

Thanks for your input. This is how I learn so it's greatly appreciated man!

Thanks for the encouragement! Made some boxed lowers last night! It feels so cool to make parts from scratch! So rewarding.

 

DAMN!! LOLOLOL you have me worried now! I didn't want bro lean but I definitely don't want stink bug. We'll see how she sits. haven't lowered her down on her feet yet. I guess the good part is that I don't have any preload set in the front right now because I can't stand a high ride height. Plus the way the front is set right now gives it the most equal up/down travel right now.

 

I had to move my shackle mount. Previous owner had it too far back. It's a constant game of shock tuning too.

No mentors over here either, just reading and shooting from the hip.

 

Don't worry too much about the stink bug look with f67. Those leafs are known for flattening out quite a bit. Throw 2 spares, jack, recovery equipment, ice chest, ect n the you won't be stink bug. You can always remove a couple leafs from the pack to allow it to droop down a little more.

 

These are F55 but I get your point. We'll see... Ruff stuff is slacking getting me my bushings for the leafs. I ordered bumps and bushings and today had to send an email to see why my shit hasnt shipped yet. One of the items is on back order. Waiting to hear back with how long this will be. I was hoping to get her done this week.

 

Got a problem. The threads on two of the Ruff Stuff U bolts got all fucked up. I've never seen bolt threads this soft. Just taking the spring under plate on and off a few times messed up the threads on two of the bolts.
Now the problem. Ruff Stuff is out of U-bolts????!!!! HOW???!!!!! They are on back order. WTFFFFFF?!

I need two new u bolts ASAP!! Where else can I get u bolts? Kartek has them but only sells in pair of 4 for $52... I only need two and at this point I'm just bleeding money. I can't afford too much extra crap that I don't need. Any suggestions???

 

Deaver sells them. Try chasing the threads. I'm pretty sure any local machine shop could do it easily if you don't have a tap and die set.