Introductory Post & Motor Swaps

Hey guys,

Making my first post here, but have been a member of a Tundras forum for a while. My first taco was a 96' 3RZ with 5-spd, then I went to an 08' DC LB, then I upgraded to a 2017 Tundra.

So here I am again, but with a 2010 Reg. Cab 5-spd, but with 10psi on cylinder 4. I just picked it up Saturday so I haven't had a chance to get into it yet, as I've got a garage full of motorcycles I'm working on currently.

I'm weighing my options of what to do with the motor and looking for some opinions from people who may have done the "more work" options. I'm no stranger to turning wrenches, and actually replaced the head in my 96' twice due to a mis-diagnosis by a local mechanic before finally swapping in a new/used motor.

- Rebuild the 2.7L back to stock (waiting on pricing)
- Rebuild the 2.7 to handle boost
- Buy a used 2.7 to toss in
- Buy a used 4.0 to swap in
- ????? 2jz, LS, other large motor swap???

I'll be making a build thread as well once I get started, but here's a pic of the truck as she sits now.

 

2jz would be sick!

 

I completely agree, however, I don't know if my pockets are that deep lol

 

I vote turbo 2.7. save the cost of buying a replacement engine and associated swap parts (harnesses, mounts, sensors, etc) and put it into fabbing up a turbo kit.

 

I'm leaning towards that or the V6 swap. Are you part of the Turbo BS thread, and looking to get more people to try it out before you make the leap?

 

you could find a junkyard ls since they’re aluminum block. But a junkyard 5.3 or 4.8 would be cheaper.. they’re iron blocks tho.

 

It could be an easier fix than swapping the whole motor. Just look into it first.

 

As much as I’d love to see a engine swap build I agree.. could be as simple as a valve problem or head gasket.
Check to so if the oil looks milky possibly.. then maybe pull the head and see if anything looks out of place like a burnt valve

 

Doing a junkyard V8 swap would definitely be fun, and I'd probably have more options for getting the motor built in my area. Seems to be many more American shops than import locally.

While I hope you guys are right, I'm guessing it's going to need rebuilt. I've got blue smoke on startup, and all the readings are low for compression. Previous owner said he got 90's and then 10psi on 4, but there's many factors there on equipment & procedure. I'll cross my fingers for just head work, but I'm planning for the worst.

 

So it’s definitely burning oil.. Hopefully you get lucky tho.

 

Nah, I stop in and read some things from time to time. I have a 4.0 and am waiting for the day when I can afford to throw a supercharger on it.

I just like turbo noises

 

Fingers crossed, but I'm not holding my breath.

Hahaha well who doesn't like turbo noises? I'm resisting the urge to go supercharger, mainly because they cost more than I paid for the truck..

 

A 4.0 in a regular cab would be slick. I’ve always wanted to do that with mine.

 

If it is just head work you might as well swap new piston rings while it’s apart.

 

Build for booosty

 

This, or 2jz
https://youtu.be/ZRewZb8naGg

 

A diy engine build thread would be cool.

 

The motors appear to be more readily available compared to the 2.7 since they came in more models which is nice. I know the 2.7 and 4.0 have different transmissions, but what I don't know is if the 5-spd would mate up to the 4.0. I'll have to do a bit more research there and compare the bell-housings. Worst case, I'd buy a 6-spd to stuff in, which would be also more fun in a standard cab. More-so need to research if ECU's and such are plug&play since it's all toyota.

I will certainly be doing some refreshing while things are apart, there's no reason not to.

As in, a whole tear-down of the motor on a stand and re-assembly with new internals? I'm tempted to just have any machining done, and go this route. I'm sure it would save me quite a bit on labor, and from my experience with motorcycles, getting all the surfaces prepped is the hardest part. Everything else is just a very expensive adult Lego set.

 

If it’s not a head work problem that’s the route I would go if you decide to stay with the 2.7. You could possibly re use your rotating assembly and just put fresh bearings and rings in it after having a machine shop check out the block. Or you could even drop the oil pan and just re ring the pistons if you wanted. Just depends how far you want to get into it and if it would be more economical to go with an engine swap..

 

Just took a look at your build page; You were getting 180/230 @ 6psi? Have you gone up much from there? I know it's like a 30% bump in HP, but that still feels low compared to the 236 stock of the 1gr