HID retrofit output weak on one side

Have had retrofits for a few years. Noticed the driver side is significantly more dim than the passenger side when I pull up close to an object. Bought new bulbs. No help. Tried shimming, adjusted the hotspot but the output is still weak.

ignore the aim, I have the whole driver side pulled off the truck to adjust the bulb.

I’ll take night pics tonight but here’s my semi-dark garage. Anyone know what might be the culprit?

to my knowledge IIRC, they’re mini H1 morimoto projectors with 5k morimoto bulbs.

driver alone:


Passenger:


Both, notice the driver is above and less intense light.

 

Mini H1s are great when the bulb is aligned in the mount. You have to slide the bulb around laterally (side to side, up and down) in the socket to maximize output. If you don’t, they are off center. Hope it is that and not electrical.

If electrical make sure both ballasts get the same voltage at their input socket, should be close to battery voltage. Careful of the high voltage side. If not that, swap ballasts and igniters to find the problem. Maybe don’t mess with trying to measure the HV stuff unless you know it well.

 

Like tacoma_ca said, swap bulbs first. If it doesn't follow, swap ballasts. If it still isn't right....chances are you have a burnt projector bowl. Which you can inspect with the bulb removed and look down inside with an inspection mirror or something like that. It could very well be bulb seating as well, but you'll find that when you swap bulbs anyways.

 

Ive tried adjusting in the projector. Sanded down the nubs and have tried shimming it, to no avail. I’ll have to check the bowl and the ballast output when I get the headlight out again. Is there a way to clean the projector mirror if it is ‘burnt’?

 

I’ve swapped bulbs and swapped ballasts, it didn’t follow, which makes me believe it’s the bowl. I didn’t know burning a bowl was a thing. I’ll try ordering new projectors. Thanks guys, Learned something new.

 

Not common if you have 35w ballasts. But if you have 50w ballasts it happens somewhat quick.

On a positive note, being that they are H1 projectors they are pretty easy to replace. If I remember right you can get NHK or ACME Supers for pretty cheap, plus you can get the “blue” lens on them which improves output a bit. I believe they are the same as the Morimoto MH1 6.0.

You can remove the headlights, remove the lens, take out the projector and install the new projector in its place.

OR....you could upgrade to something like the G5-BRT threaded shaft (which is a D2S bulb) get some new D2S bulbs (Morimoto, NHK or an OEM brand) and go to a local scrap yard and pick up a pair of Hella Gen 3 ballasts off a mid 2000’s AUDI A4 or A6. Those ballasts are considered to be the cream of the crop. Lightening fast start up, water proof and insanely reliable! I have those ballasts on 3 out 4 of my personal retrofits. One of which has been on the car for 3ish years another on my motorcycle.

They look like the ballast below, they generally run about $10ea around me because they don’t really know what the heck they are. Lol

 

I do have 55W ballasts. It’s what the builder of the headlights said to use. Would you recommend 35W? I don’t know the difference. Assuming 55W run hotter?

I ordered new Projectors (MH1 7.0) and ballasts (35w). I’ve had bad luck with my current setup, they leaked bad the first winter and had 3” of water inside the housing. Drained it and sealed them up extra good and they’ve been okay the past two years. Really noticed the driver output decrease this last 6 months.
I’m just going to redo it all and sell my current setup cheap. They still work, just not optimal and up to my ocd.

 

35w ballasts are more than enough. 50w is nice, but bulbs burn out faster and bowls don't last long. On many sites there is a warning about using 50w ballasts and that the projectors or bulbs purchased aren't guaranteed if 50w is used. Hylux makes a 45w ballast that is supposedly a happy medium. But 35w is more than enough. In fact I had a 50w ballast on my motorcycle and swapped it for a 35w because the light was too intense, anything above the cutoff was just impossible to see because the contrast between light and dark was very extreme!

You'll notice when switch to 35w that it will appear as though the light throw is less. But it may actually be easier to live with as the light will not be as intense, causing less strain on your eyes. So in the long run you may find that you like the 35w more.

 

This is my Subaru with the ACME standard H1 setup running 35w ACME ballasts. Just a simple cheap build for my beater car.

 

Good to know. Thanks for your help! I was really getting tired of it and about to go back to old school OEM halogens.

 

No problem! If you have any more questions let me know!

I will say, my tacoma (2015) was the last one to retrofit just because the OEM headlights with Philips H4 Racing Vision halogens was actually really good! Plus it was the most expensive since I'm running OEM parts. If I wasn't into retrofitting so much I would have done the "ultimate" headlight upgrade.

 

I have a spare old headlight set I’m going to clean up with the 3m headlight restoration kit and keep on hand with stock bulbs, I might look into that as a backup if these don’t work out. Hopefully they do.

 

If the 3M kit is out of stock the Sylvania kit is really good and has lasting results. Requires a little bit of elbow grease but worth it.

 

good to know. Thanks! I have the 3m kit somewhere in my garage, but it didn’t look like it included too much for both sides if they need more work, I’ll likely pick up both to have on hand.

 

This is a bit of a touchy subject for me that I disagree with those kits and polishing. Those polishing kits are a temporary fix. No matter the wax, sealant or coating that is applied after being polished WILL wear off. They are specifically made to be a SACRIFICIAL layer. Just like waxes, sealants and coatings you apply on your paint.

I like to completely recondition the lens which is a PERMANENT solution, like your clear coat on your paint. It’s roughly about $40 in parts, 2hrs in work and 12ish hrs for the clear coat to dry....then you’ll never have to worry about again. Here is the process I use.

Products
-sandpaper 400, 600, 800 grit. Auto body grade is the best for this process.
-Spraymax 2k Clear Glamour Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear

$26 Spray max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HEQiEbCAP32BW
-a flexible sanding block helps but isn’t needed
-spray bottle or bowl with water and 1-2 drops of dawn dish soap, do not use more!
-wax and grease remover or isopropyl alcohol for final cleaning.
-gloves
-mask at a minimum, respirator is best. 2 part clear coats are very bad to breathe in!

Process

-remove headlights
-sand the lens with 400 grit DRY until the factory coating is fully removed
-wet sand 400g
-wet sand 600g till it is even and you don’t see the deeper scratches from the 400g
-wet sand 800g, same as above.
-clean lens well with a wax and grease remover or isopropyl alcohol.
-spray with clear coat (Spraymax 2k Glamour) lightly, you will see it clear up as you start spraying. Follow the directions on the can for additional coats. Use the WHOLE can for both head lights.
-if there are any runs or orange peel you can wet sand with 2000g and polish after that.

I’ve done a handful of headlights like this. My brother in-laws G6 is a heavy gravel travel vehicle and is still looking great after 3 years. It’s not clear as can be because the inside of the lens was pretty beat up too, but it’s better than it was and that’s all he cared about.

 

Nice I have most of that laying around. The 3M kit came with 300, 500, 1000, and a 3k plus a buff for the I was going to clear coat them after I finish the steps in the kit. This is my second set, they were clear, only a couple years old, not too bad, just the clearcoat started to flake away. Thanks!

 

You can go up to 1000 grit, but I would stop there before clear coating. I personally prefer stopping at 800. The reason is for mechanical adhesion since you can’t use a primer or adhesion promoter. I feel more comfortable with 800 since it comes out crystal clear and I fee that the mechanical adhesion is better than 1000. But I tend to overthink things way too much! Lol I haven’t heard issues with a 1000 grit last step. But I have seen issues when people have used 1500 or fiber as their last step.

 

Oh gotcha. I think their last paper was a 800 or 1000. The 3k was like a pad and could barely see texture you had to wet(?)

good stuff to know. Thanks!

 

The 3000 would still be great to have for removing runs or orange peel.

 

Good process, I do the same. As you likely know that almond smell from the Spraymax 2k Clearcoat is literally cyanide gas. A respirator capable of absorbing carbonaceous gases is really necessary with it.

Also my friendly local bodyshop agrees to stop at precisely 800 grit as you described for adhesion to the lens.