Removing oil pan on 4cyl 4x2

I've seen the thread about removing the oil pan but it is for a 4x4. Most folks where saying engine out for this

I have a 08 4cyl 4x2 and just need to replace the #2 oil pan, it has damage to it and is leaking

It appears to be a straight forward job in the 4x2, remove the 18 screws and the 2 nuts wiggle it out past the oil pump pickup and VIOLA!

 

Help my ignorance and post a picture of a #2 oil pan please.

 

There are 2 oil pans. a cast aluminum one #1 and a stamped sheet metal one #2

I need to replace the stamped sheet metal one (#2)

got all the rotten rusted screws loose , was getting ready to remove the pan and did some surfing and panicked

 

youtube video

https://youtu.be/aJvZUqVXALs

 

I got the pan out without lifting or removing the engine BUT....

I needed to remove the oil pump pickup tube, hence I need the gasket. Luck was with me here and the local stealer had one in stock

I would also say I would have been better off getting a bit more room by unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the engine, That would also negate the need to remove the pickup tube.

The short working time for the adhesive/sealant (3-5 min) means you have to have all your ducks in a row and get all the fasteners in quickly (a helper might be good to have)

You also should consider some RTV Silicone Gasket Remover to ease the process of surface preparation, the sealer remover chemicals seem to be increasingly difficult to get so plan ahead. I have 3 parts store locally within 10 min and none had what I needed

I opted to use a gasket. I got the FEL-PRO OS 30784 gasket, time will tell if that was a wise decision, it's hard to argue with toyota engineering decisions. I torqued the screws to the recommended value (9 Nm) mostly in the recommended sequence (it's a bit confusing, using the diagram laying under the vehicle looking at the bottom of the engine). The 3 tubes of sealer in the Fel-Pro kit is barely enough and I had some toyota 1207B on hand so that was a lifesaver

Part of the preparation for this little project was removing the badly corroded screws and nuts. I did this ahead of the project to give me time to deal with any disasters and hard to remove screws. One product that helped immensely is the 1/4" drive Rocket Socket set. I got many of the screws out by hammering a 3/8" 12 or 6 point socket onto the screw heads but a couple wouldn't cooperate and 5/16" or any of the 8-9 other options I tried would not work. The Rocket Socket worked like a charm without any hammering or difficulty whatsoever.

Another tip is the cross member has some big holes in the top you can't see and I dropped a screw in there, what a bitch getting it out was. Probably want to cover those or plug them up somehow or at least be aware and use caution.

I have been using some roof underlayment material to protect the driveway from the inevitable spills and drips and it has worked great! GAF FeltBuster 48-in x 250-ft 1000-sq ft Felt Roof Underlayment. I bought a roll of this for tent footprints , a ground cloth for bivvy camping under the stars, and impromptu rain protection, I keep a peice in my daypack too for sitting in wet areas or someplace where poison oak might be present.

I bought new hardware from toyota and in retrospect I feel it might be better for the shade tree mechanic to use all studs and nuts for this... I say this because the base of the engine is at an angle and judging the screw is started properly with adhesive on it is hard given the time pressure, 2 screws where especially difficult and maybe slightly cross threaded (hope this thing don't leak ) There is probably some toyota SST for installing these studs since they have serrations on the end maybe a bit of blue loctite too.

Being a New Englander with more than a drop of Scottish blood and all around cheapskate (fixed income unemployed/retired too )... I didn't want waste the recently changed $5 a quart synthetic oil. You gotta transfer the oil from the drain pan to something else so you don't spill it while pouring it back into the engine (what an idiot DOH!)

Hope this is helpful to someone and thanks for taking the time to read this post

 

PART# 90126-A0004 STUD, HEXALOBULAR

HEXALOBULAR = TORX

 

Hey MattMaxon,
I am about to give a try to change the #2 oil pan on my son's Tacoma 2010 2.7 2X4....
Reading your comments, a question came up....
1- I ordered the FEL-PRO OS30783 as well.... Where do you put the sealant? Is it on the pan side of the gasket, the motor side of the gasket or both?

Besides that... and by reading another post on the subject, I think I am almost good to go...