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Bed Bolts

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by PMK, Jan 18, 2020.

  1. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:42 PM
    #1
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Likely covered a thousand times before. Today I needed to move the bed slightly aft to install a Bed Buddy Motorcycle Setup.

    I removed the 6 bed bolts. All came out without any complaints. Found the two center bed bolts a bit corroded. Apparently the steel support sleeves must get water in them, possibly from the top, maybe from some other point.

    Point is, might not be a bad idea to occasionally pull the bed bolts and apply a corrosion preventative compound.

    I have been spraying the underside and frame of my truck, almost since new, with CorrBan 22. Threaded ends of the bolts had no corrosion, only the shanks within the spacer for the bed.

    I applied CorrBan into each spacer and coated the bolt shanks with Mastinox. When time permits, those two bolts I will remove again, flush any crud out of the spacers, recoat and reinstall.

    Simply an FYI if you deem it applicable to your truck and where you live.
     
  2. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:45 PM
    #2
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    Toyota using torx head bolts with the rust really made removing anything on the bed a Pain
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020
  3. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #3
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    As I mentioned, my truck has been get corrosion protected by myself for years. The 6 bolts on mine are Torx style, yes they were tight, but luckily came out easily. Guessing the CorrBan kept the threads from corroding.
     
    BillsSR5[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:51 PM
    #4
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    Florida doesn't use much salt brine for snow helps too
     
  5. Jan 19, 2020 at 5:20 AM
    #5
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    Several
    The heads of my bed bolts have a lot of surface corrosion. Guess I should pull them for cleanup or replacement. What's the recommended torque specification for those bolts (2008 Tacoma)?
     
  6. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:00 AM
    #6
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    I spray the truck myself, so the underside and frame box areas get coated pretty well. The stuff I use is aerospace expired CorrBan. It wicks, creeps and displaces moisture. Self heals also when small items might wipe it away.

    Those bed bolt pockets, simply something I had never accessed before.

    True the govt may not treat our roads with salt and such to control winter. Rest assured though, close to the ocean we have ample salts, sands and more to corrode your truck in various ways.
     
  7. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:01 AM
    #7
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Although I agree that some bolts might need this process, I'd question it in this case. My reasoning? How often in the life of an average truck do you remove them?

    BTW, Toyota applies a thread locking compound to these bolts to prevent them from coming loose. That's done for a reason. Applying any kind of corrosion inhibitor will negate the thread locking capability.
     
    BillsSR5 likes this.
  8. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:06 AM
    #8
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    no wonder those bolts are a bitchx2 to get out if they are using a Loc-tite type compound on them, having a Torx head bolt doesn't help either they strip strip strip now you got real issues if the bed needs to come off, on my 1st GEN they used a heavy grade bolt with a 17mm head which would come out with a cheater bar somewhat easy, I just hope I never have to remove the bed on my 2nd gen:fingerscrossed:
     
  9. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:07 AM
    #9
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Granted the bolts showed corrosion. The bed has steel sleeves that prevent the bed bolts from crushing the composite bed structure. Those sleeves if filled with water will likely corrode away over time.

    Agree, very seldom are the bolts removed. Possibly a reason to corrosion proof the area.

    Asfor thread locking compound, if these had it, the compound was removed as the bolts came out. Ironically though, once I slightly loosened the bolts, they easily came out with no running drag.

    This was posted as an FYI, not a mandatory compliance item. Accomplishment is entirely at the owners discretion.
     
  10. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:08 AM
    #10
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    I pulled mine an put anti-seize on them as a preventative measure.
     
    69L46Vert likes this.
  11. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:10 AM
    #11
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    just use a torx and breaker bar, or a pb blaster soak and impact drill?
     
  12. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:11 AM
    #12
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    T55 Torx and a breaker bar worked great
     
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  13. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:13 AM
    #13
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    I may try this cause eventually you may need to get a new fuel pump, vapor canister in and removing the bed would be the easiest route to do it
     
  14. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #14
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
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    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    To help the Torx55 get a good secure bite, I used a brass hammer and tapped the top side of the breaker bar to seat the Torx bit into the bolt head.

    Once loosened, mine easily removed.
     
  15. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:20 AM
    #15
    DG92071

    DG92071 Well-Known Member

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    Toyota did not use any thread locking compound on bed bolts on a 2006 Tacoma, maybe they added it in later years but definitely not in 2006.

    If thread locker is put on a bolt and the bolt is tightened and the thread locker is allowed to fully cure a corrosion inhibitor will do absolutely nothing to the thread locker.

    Bed bolts go into steel tubes which fill up with water and that rusts out the threads making the bolts tough to get out. A big ass pipe wrench on the outside circumference of the bolt makes getting bed bolts out much easier.
     
    Taco? Who knows likes this.

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