2nd gen manual transmission fix

Well, talked with Kevin at clutchmasters and the local shop that did the install. The lower engagement point is normal for the CM slave. In just a few days, it's settling in a bit. Clutch return is still a bit slower than stock, might need one more vaccum bleed. All in all, seems to shift better. Not as finicky, smoother overall. Daily satisfied, will report back after some miles!

 

Resurfacing definitely affects the distance from the bearing, but I was making a more specific reference to the step size itself. There are multiple secondary concerns that can come up with machining the flywheel and release bearing distance. That said, generally the most common issue with the incorrect step is too much or not enough clamping force on the clutch resulting in the clutch either slipping or not releasing. Of course when that happens it can also mean that the diaphragm springs on the pressure plate are sitting too far away or too close to the release bearing, but that's not really a huge concern if the clutch isn't working properly to begin with.

On the other hand, a flywheel that has the correct step size but has been excessively machined will usually result in either the clutch not fully disengaging (the slave cylinder hits the end of its travel before the clutch is fully released), or the clutch not disengaging at all (because the clutch disc physically collides with a part of the flywheel or the flywheel bolts). In the first case, a shim can be added between the flywheel and the crankshaft to restore the correct location or a taller release bearing/hub can be used. In the second case the flywheel requires replacement.

There are 2 different heights for the pressure plate on the Tacoma from the factory, depending on if an LuK pressure plate or an Aisin pressure plate is being used. When using an aftermarket clutch it can sometimes be difficult to know which height was the target for the design. Toyota uses a different release bearing height depending on the pressure plate installed. (31230-60231 for LuK pressure plates and 31230-60241 for Aisin). If I had to guess I would make the guess that CM likely designed theirs for the Aisin height, but it would be best to get that information directly from them.

Jef

 

I hope it can be made to work using an Exedy clutch kit, new LuK flywheel, and ClutchMasters TOB.

 

I expect you won't have any issues. The LuK flywheel is the same spec as OE and the Exedy is likely Aisin height, which is what all new Toyota replacement parts are, and also what the latest years of the 1GR used in the Tacoma as well. It's very possible and even likely that the CM TOB will work just fine with the LuK or Aisin height, but it would be nice for them to confirm that.

Jeff

 

Do u connect the end of the braided line to where it exits the firewall? Haven’t tackled mine yet and the line seems really long

 

its really long because its for a fj which connects to the hardline at the back of the tcase

 

I'll shoot you a pick in the morning. I totally wussed out in the cold and busy with life, had a local shop do it.

 

Ok so now that I am home from vacation I am finally ready to order my clutch masters release bearing from the group buy but I am still torn on whether to get the FX100 clutch kit or get the URD stage 2 kit. It sounds like the issue @BillDaCat8 had with the CM clutch had more to do with a miscommunication with regards to the step when resurfacing the flywheel than the clutch itself but I still get the impression that the URD is a little more robust option.

Anyone agree or have any opinions to the contrary?

Also, @Boomkanani what is your impression of the heavyweight flywheel so far?

 

I'm still waiting delivery, but I'll post up once its installed.

 

A better connection point for both Fj and Tacoma would be where the hardline threads into the damper. Same position on both vehicles. Much shorter line required. Resulting in far fewer air traps for Tacoma applications where you'd just roll up the excess.

 

Anyone have this with urd stage 3 clutch and aluminum flywheel?

 

They make an aluminum flywheel for our trucks??

 

Fidanza does for the 1GR i believe

 

https://www.urdusa.com/lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-for-1gr-fe-engines-with-6-speed/

 

When we were developing the kit, I wanted to delete the fluid accumulator and the rubber soft line. The way the accumulator is mounted on to the FJ trans would make it impossible for a soft line to come out of the hole of the trans and make the bend needed to get to the hard line that connected to the accumulator without kinking (from what I remember). From my understanding some of the guys who have installed them in the Tacomas have installed them where the soft rubber line comes off the firewall right next to the brake booster and the line CM sends out is a good length for that (this is exactly what URD had you do for their hydro bearing kit).

We had talked about a hard line but we wanted to keep the cost down. Figuring out the exact way to fixture and bend a hard line would have driven the cost up significantly. The URD hydro kit was like $600 from what I've been able to find and people have told me, which was a big price tag that not lots wanted to pay, hence why it was probably discontinued and no longer available. As with lots of aftermarket parts, it comes down to a balance of cost and function, and the market the parts are aimed at. Will people pay $475 for a hydro bearing, (or in the case of the group buy, much less) I think the answer is yes. Will people pay $600 or more, some will but it really starts to look less appealing to the majority who could justify it at a slightly lesser price.

I know CM is open to feedback though so if you, or anyone else reading this, have an idea for the ideal length of line that might work best in the Tacoma's by all means let me or CM know! Alternatively, lots of auto parts stores (NAPA I believe can) and hydraulic shops are able to make lines to anyones specs relatively cheap. Also hard line is readily available at auto parts stores and is fairly easy to bend if anyone wants to go the extra mile and do that.

 

Subd

Just waiting for everyone.to figure out compatible part numbers for an accumulator delete for this whole deal.

I plan on replacing the flywheel, throw out assembly with hydro bearing and a new clutch.

If anyone had one-shot this with success...let me know. I want those part numbers

 

This throw out bearing eliminates the accumulator with out any extra parts. Just connect the line above the accumulator

 

My worry with the CM bearing is:
How is the quality of the bearing they use?
Does it have that plastic sleeve that melts with heat?
Anybody know?

 

Ok cool, but my main concern is with the hydro bearing, clutch and flywheel compatibility issue that seems to be going on.

 

What compatibility issue?

The only issues I've read about were:
1. Flywheel was machined to other than OEM specs
2. CM clutch kit FX250 was installed. However, that kit does not show up for 2005-2015 Tacomas when searching on the CM website. I'm assuming they were trying to do a custom install with a kit not built to OEM specs.

Stay with an OEM spec clutch kit/flywheel and I don't think there will be any problems.

I've had by hydro bearing kit for a week now, but still waiting on my URD Stage 2 clutch w/heavy flywheel.