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LC6 i, LC2 i, with 4 channel amp + powered sub?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by stealthmode, Jan 19, 2020.

  1. Jan 19, 2020 at 9:51 AM
    #1
    stealthmode

    stealthmode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So heres where I am at with my very slow build.
    I started with some Hertz 6x9s and 6.5s in the rear paired up with an Alpine MRX-F65 (see below for amp connections pics). Great upgrade for the last few years. Now after some reading through the TW black hole :spending:

    I'd like to add either a LC2 or LC6 (depending on sub & amp) and a powered sub. A sub box and using the rear storage is overkill for me so powered sub is the direction I'm heading.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/under-seat-sub.534849/#post-17199482

    Screenshot_20200119-100447_Chrome.jpg

    Now- if going be adding a powered sub and a Line out Converter (LC2 or LC6) I have a problem because I only have a 4 channel amp which I would like to KEEP rather than upgrade to a 5 channel... so heres my question for you guys - can I avoid upgrading to a 5 channel amp by wiring the LOC and Amp using either their bridge or summing options?

    The LC6i manual (attached) recommends to NOT connect a speaker directly to the Line Output Converter and the traditional method as most of you know is Head Unit- LOC- Amp- Speakers (see attached).

    The amp manual shows a pic of bridging, and specs say 4 ohm and 2 ohm loads are possible.



    20200119_100248.jpg


    Time to ditch the 4 channel?

    Screenshot_20200119-100453_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20200119-103653_Drive.jpg
    Screenshot_20200119-103633_Drive.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jan 19, 2020 at 10:34 AM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    Get a LC6 and move the wires on the amplifier input to the Audio Control, then send the output for Front L/R and Rear L/R from the Audio Control to your current 4 channel amp, and the other two can be used to send signal to either a subwoofer amplifier, or powered sub. There's no need to sum or bridge.
     
    boostedka likes this.
  3. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:23 AM
    #3
    stealthmode

    stealthmode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I follow . I think. Lol.

    And I thought the same thing but according to the diagram in their manual you cant use the LOC outputs to go directly to a source (speaker).
    Screenshot_20200119-103633_Drive.jpg
    It has to come from the Amp - I think.
     
  4. Jan 19, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #4
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    The amplifier is last thing before the speakers.

    HU out to LC6
    LC6 out to your 4 channel amplifier
    Two LC6 outputs left for a subwoofer connection.
     
    stealthmode[OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 19, 2020 at 5:25 PM
    #5
    stealthmode

    stealthmode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha that's what I thought and why I just assumed a LC6 vs a LC2 would give me that option but after looking at the manual and their diagram it looks like that's a no go? Unless I'm missing something? Check out #9


    Screenshot_20200119-123740_Drive.jpg
     
  6. Jan 19, 2020 at 7:08 PM
    #6
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    “Subwoofer connection” meaning, as I wrote in the previous response, either a subwoofer amplifier or a powered subwoofer. Both cases is an amplifier input.
     
  7. Feb 12, 2021 at 5:36 PM
    #7
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    is this thread alive . i’m looking at lc6i for
    the purpose
    or channel summing. the rear speakers are way too weak! if I did a kicker key,
    would the signal
    be strong enough for rear speakers?
     
    stealthmode[OP] likes this.
  8. Feb 13, 2021 at 7:35 AM
    #8
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    There is no signal summing necessary in a Tacoma unless you have the JBL stereo.

    I feel like there are a lot of people that misunderstand what signal summing is.
     
  9. Feb 13, 2021 at 8:21 AM
    #9
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    i’m definitely not familiar with summing. I thought it meant all the signals are combined to and divided evenly so that front and rears sounds the same. no?
     
  10. Feb 13, 2021 at 8:25 PM
    #10
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    Nah.

    Signal summing is something you can do when you keep a factory system in place AND that system has band limited outputs for high and low speakers.

    It takes the high passed and low passed signals and sums them back into one full bandwidth signal so you can process and redo the crossovers to suit the upgraded equipment you have installed.
     
  11. Feb 15, 2021 at 6:10 PM
    #11
    stealthmode

    stealthmode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gonna bump this thread cuz Im bored and starting to look up my system build stuff again lol. :rofl:

    Whats best way to connect the LC6 to head unit?
     
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  12. Feb 15, 2021 at 6:21 PM
    #12
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    i’ve been searching all weeks on this. i found a video
    on youtube where a guy did dual bridge basicallly use a 4 channel amp for 4 speakers and subwoofer.

    here’s where i’m leaning
    lc6i- using the front and rear speaker inputs to output 3 sets of rca’s for 4 channel or 5 channel amp.

    the lc6i copies the rear speakers level output making it perfect for a sub if you want it later

    5 channel sound stream amp for only $139 on ebay
    lci6i $110 on ebay as well.

    taco toonez 10” sub box with a locally purchased 10” subwoofer that will fit

    up
    for debate is a lame wiring harness for 2020-2021 is more rare than a rainbow unicorn.

    all new door speakers of course
     
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  13. Feb 22, 2021 at 7:26 AM
    #13
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    ok. got almost everything narrowed down. which amp
    wiring kit do you guys use? I need enough from battery to rear cab or drivers seats? hard to measure since everyone runs wires differently. if no answe, i’m. gonna pull a string and measure that.
     

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