geekhouse23's "LIFE'S WAITING TO BEGIN" Overland & Home build and all the Adventures in between!

Anyway to test it? Does it have to be removed to test? Hard job?

 

I haven’t the slightest clue. I think some auto parts stores can test them, so I would have to assume it’s on the truck. See if your local Napa can. It just seems odd to me the battery would die only a year later

 

O'reilly, napa, autozone should all be able to do it.

 

Before you go throwing money at the truck, you need to find out why the battery won't stay charged.
You got to have parasitic drain somewhere for the battery to keep going dead.

I would start with checking and cleaning all connections that you have touched, starting at battery (shiny lead both sides of connecters) then check all the things you've added (truck didn't go dead before these) so something is drawing elect when truck is off.
If you get an ohm meter you check for draw but I don't remember how, you can also check alt.

hope this gives you ideas where to start
now my finger hurts lol

 

What Randall is trying to say is “check your alternator homie because you will need the extra juice to run the new to you fridge you will be buying off of me for the friend price”

 

Too bad it’s sold now!

 

You’re kidding me right?

 

This. All this. There’s a draw somewhere causing problems. My truck sat for 2 months this fall and cranked right up with no problem with temps in the teens. 3.5 year old Odyssey

 

Nope, Jerry bought it

 

I guess there is a buyer for every fridge out in the wild.

 

I definitely will be doing this. The electrical system is on the list and a bit more of a priority than other items right now. I have a few ideas of what needs to be addressed and possibly the cause of the drain. I want to clean some shit up, remove some lighting mods I don't use or need anymore. Clean it up and make everything more reliable so that it can sit for a long time and not have it be dead. Kill switch is on the list too.

I have a feeling that once I get an actual daily, the track can sit for a while and actually be worked on without feeling the pressure of getting everything finished in one driveway session.

Wiring is one of those things that scare the piss out of me. I need to get better at it.

 

Wiring done rite shouldn't need a kill switch, every time you switch you'll have to reset everything.

But if your set on the switch it goes on the neg side.

 

You'll need an Ohm Meter / Volt meter and time and patience. Chasing parasitic draw is time consuming. Have your alternator checked first at an auto parts store then when you get some time, you can check for parasitic draw. There's a few methods that I know of on how to accomplish this. Probably the easiest would be to wait approximately 30 min or so after you shut your truck down then disconnect your negative battery wire. You're going to set your volt meter to Ohm's and you'll be working in the milliamps DC setting. You'll place the positive lead on the battery post and the negative lead on the chassis ground (if you're seeing a negative number, swap the leads around). Larger numbers will drain your battery more quickly. Now one by one, pull a fuse and see if there's a change or drop in amps. Be mindful that you might be seeing multiple small drops across different fuses as these are truck systems that may have power even with the vehicle off such as your radio in order to save its station presets. I would start with the after market stuff you've added to your vehicle. Keep a note of which fuses result in the largest change in amps, it'll help you narrow down the component that's drawing off your battery. Once you find the suspect fuse or fuses, start disconnecting the electrical leads from the components that are tied into that fuse and running the test again after each electrical plug is disconnected. You should find one component that is resulting in the largest change and this will be your culprit.

The other method is similar to the first. You'll wait 30 some odd minutes, and unplug the negative wire from your battery. Place the negative lead on the chassis ground and the positive lead will touch each fuse one by one. There should be some exposed metal on the backs of each fuse that you can touch with the positive lead. See photo:

Test one by one until you see a large number on your Ohmmeter. This will be your suspect fuse. You may need to test each side of the fuse, I cant remember since its been a while since I've had to do this method. Once you find the suspect fuse, you'll check the system like I mentioned above. Pull power from each item plugged into that system one by one until you find the suspect component.

-J

 

I couldn't like this enough ^^^^^^^^^^^^ well said J

 

All this X2power battery talk in all the active threads lately is getting me thinking...

Dual yellow top optimas or 1 X2power? If X2, 31M or 27F and why?

 

What does a fuse have to do with stripers, poker, & cocain?

Im lost. What type of build is this!?!

 

"Make my truck great again while simultaneously rebuilding my life."

Just go with it...I don't fucking know.

 

Fuck optima. I had a 31m, and after a year it froze and cracked in 10° weather. Optima didn’t do shit for me, Amazon hooked me up though.

 

And 27f. It’s got some insane specs and is 67 lbs. I Wouldn’t want to go any bigger

 

Why the aggression?

Must be a glock owner. Damn plastic gun owners think the can take on the world