Trying to figure out Grille Lights wiring for DRL

I ran mine to the fuse box under the dash. I think I used the cig lighter. They go on and off with the ignition

 

Did you tap the wire or use an add a fuse?

 

Why is it that when you add a fuse to DRL fuse grille lights stay on even when truck is off?

Is best bet for cleanest look for what i am trying to achieve is to

run relay drl pin 5 wire w inline fuse to one side of diode hide
other side with inline fuse to rh-lo or lh-lo
middle connector to grille light power hide it under fuse tray

 

add a fuse for now

 

Thanks for the reply but I actually wanted to know from the guy I quoted, who is running power from the cab fuse panel. I want the same thing you want, i just can't manage all of this electrical wizardry so I'm still hoping for a simpler solution.

 

Because the fuse is coming from the battery then to the relay, so it's a constant power.

 

Thanks!

 

Add a fuse.

 

Wow. I cannot believe I never noticed that.. Now I definitely do not want it that way.

 

I got it going thanks to @caribe makaira

I ended up using a different

$36 Hopkins 48955 Towed Vehicle Diodes Kit

diode meanwhile! It's a little bigger.

Long story short I ran a wire from the DRL relay pin 5 (opened relay and tapped from bottom) with a 5amp inline fuse to one part of diode, then I ran addafuse from low beam left fuse inside main fusebox to other side, and out to grille light power, and grille light ground to ground.

So now my grille lights turn on w DRL during day
On w headlights at night

off if I switch lights off completely.

I know it seems like a lot of BS and I could have just had them on all the time, but I wanted the ability to turn them off. I have been in situations late at night where I have to roll away unnoticed

I know this may be useless to 99.99% but it is exacty what I needed! Again a huge thanks to @caribe makaira for the countless diagrams he sent me privately too!

 

I'm going to do this too. Thanks for info and to all that helped! I might be hitting you up if I get confused..

 

lol NP! It's simple after you figure it out!

 

Have a few permutations of same effect the OP needed.
This one is overbuilt, but safest electrically. It's handling the coil side (very low amp) of the actuation, minimizing the electrical gremlins the 3rd Gens like to get. Also if one decides to add additional lamps with the Grill Lamps it makes is easy. (parallel to the Grill Lamps on the relay)




Here you are switching the Grill Lamp ground.
The added changeover relay provides ground via pin 30 & 87a to 2 diodes.
One diode taps the DRL relay ground the other diode is to the Headlamp relay ground.
The diodes prevent the grounds to mate, so when DRL are ON the Headlamps stay OFF.
The relay has pin 87 & 85 to ground.
Pin 86 is tapped into the UNLOCK/LOCK buzzer power. When unlocking/locking the Grill lamps flash with the buzzer beep.
All this inside the cab with only the ground wire coming from the grill lamps.
This a fancy assembly...or you could just use tape.



Here is a simple one, sort of. Not doing the effect the OP needed, but for others interested in getting the UNLOCK/LOCK flash.

 

Details:
Low Beam Headlamp and DRL circuits. Notice the always hot fuse (BAT) to relay and the ground actuated wire to the Main Body ECU.
The Main Body ECU provides (+) power to the Wireless Door Lock Buzzer.

 

Nice work, op!

@Puppypunter any chance you can make a plug and play version of this, but somehow add the Lock/Unlock flash as @caribe makaira suggested?

I'd also prefer a final inline disconnect switch for full opt-out.

And, to complicate matters even more, @MESO at one time suggested to me a step down module such as

KNACRO DC-DC 12V to 9V 2A Step-Down Power Supply Module Car Power Converter Module Synchronous Buck with Reverse Connection Protection

this for when the headlights are on. So, DRL activated grille lights are bright during the day, and headlight activated grille lights are dim at night.

All plug and play. Should be a piece of cake, right?

 

Let me get caught up here, and I’ll look into it.

 

Thanks! FWIW, I already have the step-down module (if you need it), and I can probably wire the step-down and kill switch.